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ROCSE-KHPIR'S filUDi 

AND EVERYBODY'S 

H[A.NI3~I30 0K: 

CONTAINING OVER 

FIAT'S HZTJISriDREID 

NEW AND VALUABLE 

ON THE MANUFACTURE OF FAMILY AND TOILET SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, 
CEMENTS, LIQUID SOLDERS FOR MENDING TIN, IRON, AND STEEL, INKS, 
DYES, DOMESTIC MEDICINES, WINES, CIDER, CORDIALS, VINEGAR, 
PICKLES, PRESERVES, JELLIES, AND JAMS; ON THE ART OF 
COOKING, AND ALMOST EVERY ART PERTAINING TO HOUSE- 
KEEPING AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY ; TOGETHER WITH 
DEPARTMENTS DESIGNED ESPECIALLY FOR FARM- 
ERS AND MECHANICS, GIVING VALUABLE 
f'"' INFORMATION UPON; VARIOUS TOPICS 

) ^ .>'-^'* ^ CONNECTED WITH THEIR RESPEC- 



<}{ 



TIVE VOCATIONS. 



BY SMITH & SWINNEY, 

C I-I E IVX I S T @ , Etc. 



CINCINNATI, O.: 

SECOND EDITION — THIRTEENTH THOUSAND, 

1864. 
I»i-ice, i>ei- copy. One Dollat' 

stereotyped at the Franklin Type Foundry , Cin. O. 



THE 



HOliSE-KEEPER'S GllIDi 



AND EVERYBODY'S 

H:A.'JNrD-BOOK: 

CONTAINING OYER 

,, NEW AND VALUABLE 

REGIMES 



ON THE MANUFACTURE OF FAMILY AND TOILET SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, 
CEMENTS, LIQUID SOLDERS FOR MENDING TIN, IRON, AND STEEL, INKS, 
DYES, DOMESTIC MEDICINES, WINES, CIDER, CORDIALS, VINEGAR, 
PICKLES, PRESERVES, JELLIES, AND JAMS ; ON THE ART OF 
COOKING, AND ALMOST EVERY ART PERTAINING TO HOUSE- 
KEEPING AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY; TOGETHER WITH 
DEPARTMENTS DESIGNED ESPECIALLY FOR FAR- 
MERS AND MECHANICS, GIVING VALUABLE 
INFORMATION UPON VARIOUS TOPICS 
CONNECTED WITH THEIR RESPEC- 
TIVE VOCATIONS. ^^iL ■ -j/y 



BY SMITH & SWINNEY, 

CHEMISTS, ETC. 



CINCINNATI, OHIO: 

STEREOTYPED EDITION— REVISED AND CORRECTED. 
18G4. 



aV 



Co 

PREFACE TO THE SECOxND EDITION. 



^^ 



So RAPID has been the sale of this truly valuable little book, that the 
first edition of 3,000 copies was hardly out of press before a new one 
was called for to supply the increasing demands coming in from every 
quarter. 

_ It has been thoroughly revised, improved, and considerably enlarged 
since its first appearance. 

Although the Authors have spent several years in collecting its material 
from various sources, in experimenting upon and improving recipes, and 
arranging them for publication, it is now gotten up and designed espe- 
cially for the benefit of Disabled Soldiers and Soldiers' Widows; through 
whose agency it is being sold, and to whom we give more than one-half 
the net profits. 

Its novelty, of combining such a multiplicity of practical recipes, and so 
much varied and useful information upon nearly all matters pertaining 
to housekeeping and domestic economy, commends it to all classes and 
conditions in societ}^ 

In addition to several valuable ones of our own, we have added a large 
number of new ones, never before made public; for some of which we 
have paid sums ranging from $10 up to $50, expressly for our book- 
making it the most valuable collection of family receipts ever compiled in 
one volume. At least one hundred can be selected from the entire work, 
any one of which would be worth its price to any family; while some of 
them are worth ten times that amount. 

The Medical Department contains information of the most vital im- 
portance to every family in the land, while no economical housewife 
would be without the knowledge embraced in the Culinary Department, 
after having once been in its possession, for twice the consideration de- 
manded for the book. 

Its price, compared with that of other publications, may seem high; 
but when viewed in the light of its intrinsic value, and particularly with 
reference to the fact that we have given to the public several very import- 
ant recipes of our own, from which we were manufacturing and selling 
articles of great value, at lai-ge profits, it is not. 

The pages are large and the type small ; and being solidly set, the book 
contains as much reading matter as is ordinarily included in two or three 
hundred pages. 

While the directions given in each receipt are sufiiciently explicit for 
the comprehension of all, we have aimed at conciseness and brevity, in 
order to condense a large amount of information in as small a compass as 
is possible. 

J3y this means we are enabled to put the book to the Soldier at such a 
price as will yield him a large profit, and remunerate him for his trouble; 
besides, in a measure, compensating him for his past services in behalf of 
his country. 

THE AUTHOES. 



Entered nceordino: to Act of Congress, in the year 18C4, by Smith & Swinney, in the 
Cleric's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Southern Dis- 
trict of Ohio, 



^% 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 



SOAP AND WASHING RECEIPTS. 

Chemical Soap. — Take 2 pounds sal soda and 1 pound good stone lime 
(or 2 pounds slacked lime) and boil in 10 quarts of soft water; let it set- 
tle ; pour off the clear fluid and add 2 pounds of tallow (or its equivalent 
in soap-grease, ^ pound borax and J pound of resin, and boil together till 
the grea'se is all taken up, then pour into a shallow box, and, when cool, 
cut into bars. 

If 3M)U wish to make soft soap, add water to make it of the desired con- 
sistency, wliich can be ascertained by cooling in a saucer while boiling. 
Owing to the present high price of resin, it may be omitted till it becomes 
cheaper. 

Again: Common bar soap, cut fine, may be used in place of the tallow 
or grease, by using double the quantity of water, and omitting the resin. 
Those who have lye soap alread}- made, can make it go as far again, and 
wasb with half the labor, by adding to each gallon 2 large table spoonfuls 
of sal soda and 1 of borax, dissolved in a little warm water, then using 
same as chemical soap. 

Washing Fluid. — Take 2 pounds of sal soda, 1 pound good stone lime, 
and 2J gallons soft water, and bring to a boil , when settled, pour off the 
clear fluid into a stone jug, and add 1 ounce of hartshorn and 1 pint of 
alcohol, and keep it tightly corked. After boiling the lime and soda, for 
either the soap or washing-fluid, pour on water the second time; let it 
settle, and again pour oft* for scrubbing, &c. 

To Make Soft Soap. — Take 20 pounds of potash and dissolve, in an iron 
kettle, with 25 gallons of cold soft water, and let it stand three days, if 
the weather be warm, and five or six, if cool. "When all is dissolved, take 
20 pounds of clear grease, or its equivalent in rough grease, and cleanse 
it with white lye; then strain it through a tin cclander or sieve in a soap- 
barrel, and add the potash lye, carefully drained from the sediment; 
then pour on a few gallons of water, so as to obtain all the strength from 
the potash, and pour off again, after it has settled, into the barrel. This 
makes a superior article of soap — of which any housewife may be proud. 

Directions for Washing. — Soak your white clothes one half hour in the 
morning, (or, if very dirty, over night,) in a tub of lukevv-arm water, 
with 1 pint of the soap dissolved in "it: suds them out, wring and soap 
wristbands, collars, and dirty or stained places. Now have your boiler 
half filled with soft water just beginning to boil, then put in 1 common 
teacup full of the washing fluid, stir it up and put in your clothes, and 
boil for thirty minutes; now suds them out, rubbing on your hand a lit- 
tle an}'^ place where there may be any dirt left; rinse, and all is done. 
This plan requires no wash-board for white clothes, saves one-half the 
soap, and more than one-half the labor, and does not injure the clothes, 

3 



4 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 

but saves the wear and tear of rubbinf^ on the board. These receiptf? 
alone are worth ten dolhirs to any family. 

Directions for Washing Calicoes. — Calico clothes, before they are put 
in water, should have the grease spots rubbed out, as they cannot be seen 
when the whole of the garment is wet. They should never be washed 
in very h'ot soap suds; that which is mildly warm will cleanse them quite 
as Avell, and will not extract the colors so much. Soft soap should never 
be used for calicoes, excepting for the various shades of 3'elTow, which 
look the best washed with soft soap, and not rinsed in fair water. Other 
colors should be rinsed in fair Avater, and dried in the shade. "When 
calicoes incline to fade, the colors can be set by washing them in luke- 
warm water, with beefs gall, in the proportion of a tea-cupful to four or 
five gallons water. Einse thom in fair water; no soap is necessary, \in- 
less the clothes are very dirty. If so, wash them in lukewarm suds, after 
■ they have been first rubbed out in beefs gall water. The beef's gall can 
be kept several months, by squeezing it out of the skin in which it is 
inclosed, adding salt to it, and bottled and corked tight. A little vinegar 
in the rinsing water of pink, red, and green calicoes, is good to brighten 
the colors, and keep them from mixing. 

Directioyis for Washing Woolens. — If jon do not wish to have white 
flannels shrink when washed, make a good suds of hard soap, and wash 
the flannels in it, without rubbing any soap on them; rub them out in 
another suds, then wring them out of it, and put them in a clean tub, 
and turn on sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let them remain 
till the water is cold. A little indigo in the boiling water makes the 
flannels look nicer. If you wish to have your white flannels shrink, so 
as to have them thick, wash them in soft soap suds, and rinse them in 
cold water. Colored woolens that incline to fade, should be washed with 
beefs gall and warm water, before they are put into soap-suds. Colored 
pantaloons look very well washed with beefs gall and fair warm water, 
and pressed on the wrong side while damp. 

Directions for Washing White Cotton Cloth. — Table cloths, or any white 
clothes that have coffee or fruit stains on them, before being put into soap- 
suds, should have boiling water turned on them, and remain in it until 
the water is cold; the spots should be then rubbed out in it. If they are 
put into soap-suds with the stains in, the}' will be set by it, so that no sub- 
sequent washing will remove them. Table-cloths will be less likely to 
get stained up, if they are always rinsed in thin starch-water, as it tends 
to keep coffee and fruit from sinking into the texture of the cloth. "White 
clothes that are very dirty, will come clean easily if put into strong cool 
suds, and hung on the fire the night previous to the day on which they 
are to be washed. If they get to boiling, it will not do them any harm, 
provided the suds is cool when they are put in; if it is hot at first, it will 
set the dirt in. 

The following method of washing clothes is a saving of a great deal of 
■labor: 8oak the clothes in lukewarm soap suds; if they are quite dirty, 
soak them over night. To every three pails of water, put a pint of soft 
soap, and a table-spoonful of tl>e salts of soda. Heat it till it iiiildly warm, 
then put in the clothes without any rubbing, and boil them an hour. 
Drain the suds out of them as much as possible, as it is bad for the hands; 
then add water until cool enough for the hands. The dirt will be loose, 
so that they will require but little rubbing. Einse them thoroughly in 
clear water, then in indigo-water. The soda can be procured cheap, by 
purchasing it in large qiu^ntities. Soda is an excellent thing to soften 
bard water. The soda suds will not do to wash calicoes in. It is a good 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 5^ 

plan to save your suds, after washing, to water your garden, if you have 
one, or to harden cellars and yards when they are sand3^ 

Directions for Cleansing Silk Goods. — When silk cushions, or silk cover- 
ings to furniture, become dingy, rub dry bran on them gently with a 
woolen cloth till clean. Remove the grease spots and stains. Silk gar- 
ments should have the spots extracted before being washed. Use hard 
soap for all colors but yellow, for which soft soap is the best. Put the 
soap into hot water, beat it till it is perfectly dissolved, then add suffi- 
cient cold water to make it just lukewarm. Put in the silks, and rub 
them in it till clean; take them out without wringing, and rinse them in 
fair lukewarm water. Kinse it in another water; and for bright yellows, 
crimsons and maroons, add sulphuric acid enough to the water to give 
it an acid taste before rinsing the garment in it. To restore the colors 
of the different shades of pink, put in the second rinsing water a little 
Vinegar or lemon-juice; for scarlet, use a solution of tin; for blues, pur- 
ples, and other shades, use pearlash ; and for olive greens, dissolve verdi- 
gris in the rinsing water; fawns and browns should be rinsed in pure 
water. Dip the silks up and down in the rinsing water; take them out 
of it without wringing, and dry them in the shade. Fold them up while 
damp; let them remain to have the dampness strike through all parts 
of them alike, then put them in a mangier; if you have not one, iron 
them on the wrong side with an iron just hot enough to smooth them. 
A little isinglass or gum arabic dissolved in the rinsing water of gauze 
shawls and ribbons, is good to stiffen them. The water in which pared 
potatoes have been boiled, is an excellent thing to wash black silks in; 
it stiffens and makes them glossy and black. Beefs gall in lukewarm 
water is also a nice thing to restore rusty silk, and soap-suds answers very 
well. They look better not; to be rinsed in clear water, but they should 
be washed in two different waters. 

No person should ever wring or crush a piece of silk when it is wet, 
because the creases thus made will remain forever, if the silk is thick and 
hard. The way to wash silk is to spread it smoothly upon a clean board, 
rub white soap upon it, and brush it with a clean hard brush. The silk 
must be rubbed until all the grease is extracted, then the soap should be 
brushed off with clean cold water, and applied to both sides. The 
cleansing of silk is a very nice operation. Most of the colors are liable to 
be extracted with washing in hot suds, especially blue and green colors. 
A little alum dissolved in the last water that is brushed on the silk, tends 
to prevent the colors from running. Alcohol and camphene mixed to- 
gether is used for removing grease from silk, 

Franklin Soap. — 1 pound common bar soap, 1 pint alcohol, 15 drops 
citron elles, or other perfume, ^ ounce spirits of hartshorn. Have your soap 
cut very fine, put all the materials in a clean iron kettle, and stir it slowly 
till all is dissolved. Let it just come to a boil, and then take it up in 
molds or bars. 

White Bar Soap. — Take 8 quarts water, 4 pounds common bar soap, h 
pound sal soda, 2 ounces alcohol, 2 ounces saltpeter, 1 ounce borax. Put 
all into an iron kettle, stir till dissolved, then boil for ten minutes. 

Almond Soap. — Take 1 pound of quick lime and pour on 3 quarts of 
boiling distilled water; add 1 pound of salt of tartar dissolved in 1 quart 
of water; cover the vessel, and when cold, filter through a cotton cloth; 
a pint should weigh exactly 16 ounces Troy; if more, add distilled water; 
if less, evaporate. Then add one-third of oil of almonds, simmer them 
together for some hours, or until the oil forms a jelly ; when cool, which 
may be tried by a small quantity, add common salt, then continue boiling 



6 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 

till the soap is solid ; when cold, skim off the water, and then pour into 
molds. 

Transparent Soap. — Transparent soap is made by dissolving hard soap 
in alcohol, then drjn'ng. Most all toilet soaps are made by dissolving com- 
mon hard soap with the essential oils of lavender, bergamot, rosemary, 
&c. 

Writing Fluid. — Take 1 pound nutgalls, bruised, half a pound of log- 
wood chips, and boil in 12 quarts soft water till evaporated to 8 quarts. 
Let it settle, then strain through a hair sieve, and add half a pound of 
green sulphate of iron, and 2 ounces sulphate of copperas, dissolved in a 
little hot water, 1 ounce crystalized sugar, and 3 ounces powdered gum 
arabic, or half a pound of gum senega! dissolved in a little hot water. 
Let it stand exposed to the air for 24 hours, then bottle. This Ink can 
be depended upon for deeds and records. 

A cheap Ink, easily made, and good enough for family purposes, is 
made as follows: Bring 1 gallon soft water to a boil, and put in three- 
fourth ounce extract logwood, and boil two or three minutes ; then re- 
move from the fire and stir in 48 grains powdered gum arabic, 8 grains 
prussiate of potash, and 48 grains bi-chromate of potash. This ink can be 
made at a cost of five or ten cents for a single gallon, and as it does not 
spoil by freezing, it is best for school children. 

A lump of salt, size of a hazel-nut, dissolved in each quart of ink, will 
effectually keep it from molding; or 5 drops of kreosote added to each 
pint, will have the same effect. 

Indelible Ink. — Nitrate of silver, 1 drachm ; rain water, 5 fluid drachms; 
mucilage gum arabic (fresh) one drachm; dissolve the nitrate of silver 
in the rain water, then add the mucilage. For the preparation, add to 
each ounce of the mucilage five grains of baking soda. Paste a piece of 
dark paper all over the bottle, and keep in a dark place. 

Red Ink. — Take a half ounce viol, and put in a tea-spoonful of aqua 
ammonia; gutn arabic, size of two or three peas, and five grains of good 
carmine; fill up with soft water, and it is soon ready for use. 

CEMENTS AND SOLDERS. 

Cement for Glass, China, Wood, Leather, ^c. — Take J pound white glue, 1 
ounce white lead, dry, and ^ pint soft water; put these in a tin dish, in- 
side an iron kettle filled with water, and boil, stirring with a stick till all is 
dissolved; then add ^ pint alcohol, and boil again till well mixed. Put 
in a bottle, and keep tightly corked. When required for use, set the bot- 
tle in a dish of water on the stove, and gradually heat till the cement is 
dissolved and of the consistency of cream ; then apply a thin coating to 
one edge, put the parts immediately together, pressing firmly for a few 
moments, and set the article away a day or so to dry. The cement must 
bo quite warm and thin when used; and, in cold weather, slightly warm 
the article to be mended, enough to take oft' the chill ; otherwise it will 
get cold before you can get the parts together, and form a thin coating 
like paper between the joints, in which case it will not stick. In mend- 
ing wood, and articles that are porous, don't press hard too soon, or you 
will press all out, except what the pores of the wood will absorb, leaving 
none to unite the broken surfaces, but press slightly at first, then hard, 
after a few moments. 

Liquid Solder for Mending Tin, Iron, and Steel. — Take \ pound umriatic 
acid and drop in as many strips of zinc as it will dissolve, and, while 
boiling, add \ ounce pulverized sal ammoniac. "VYet the tin around the 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 7 

hole to be mended with a drop or two of this fluid — first having scraped 
otf the rust, if 9.nj ; then lay on a piece of soft solder or pewter, and hold 
a candle or lamp underneath till it is melted. If the hole be large, either 
cover it with a small piece of tin, then a piece of solder large enough to 
cover all when melted, or set the dish on a cloth to keep the solder from 
running through, and then use a hot iron to melt it. 

For mending iron and steel, wet the broken edges to be joined with 
this fluid, and then dip them into some filings of soft solder, and hold in 
a spirit-lamp, firmly pressing till the solder melts and oozes out of the 
seam, when the light must be blown out, and the article held perfectly 
still, till cool. 

Another. — An amalgam of chemically pure copper, with mercury at a 
temperature of 450 degrees, will unite broken metals, glass, china, porce- 
lain, &c., as strongly as before broken. At the expiration of ten or twelve 
hours it becomes sufficiently hard to take on a polish like brass or silver. 



BEVEEAGES. 

Spruce Beer.—TuVa 3 gallons soft water, 2.] pints molasses, 3 eggs, well- 
beaten, and 1 gill yeast. Mix together equal parts oil sfissafras, spruce 
and wintergreen, and put 50 drops of this mixture into two quarts of the 
water, boilmg hot, and then put all together and let stand two or. three 
hours, then bottle. For ginger flavor, take 2 ounces of ginger root, 
bruised, and a small handful of hops, and boil for half an hour in 1 gal- 
lon of the water, then strain and mix altogether. 

Good Ginger Beer. — Take 2^- ounces ginger, 3 pounds sugar, 1 ounce 
cream tartar, the juice and peel of two middling-sized lemons, ^pint good 
brandy, \ pint yeast, and 3i gallons w^ater. Bi-uise the ginger, and put 
it and the sugar into the water, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes ; 
slice the lemons, and put them and the cream tartar in a large pan, and 
pour the boiling liquor on; stir it well, and, when milk-warm, add the 
yeast; cover it over and let it remain two or three days to work, skim- 
ming it frequently; then strain it through a jelly-bag into a cask, add 
the brandy, bung"' it tight, and at the end of two or three weeks draw it 
ofl; bottle and cork tight. If it does not work well at first, add a little 
more yeast, but be careful and not get too much, as it will taste of it. 

Lenio7i Beer. — Take 3 ounces ginger-root, bruised, 2 ounces cream tar- 
tar and boil for twenty or thirty minutes in 3 gallons of water. Strain 
and add 6 pounds coffee sugar on which you have put ^ ounce oil of 
lemon, or \ ounce and three lemons all mashed up together, and add 7 
gallons more water nearly milk-warm, then put in | pint of hop or brew- 
er's yeast, made into a paste, with 3 ounces flour. Let it work one night, 
and then bottle for use. 

Royal Diamond Sirup. — Take 1 gallon water, 6 pounds loaf-sugar, 6 
ounces tartaric acid, and 1 ounce gum arable in another vessel. Beat up 
four tea-spoonfuls of flour, and the whites of four eggs, and add h pint 
of water in another vessel : when that in the first vessel is blood- warm, 
put in the contents of the other vessel, and let it stand three minutes. 

To Use It. — Take two or three table-spoonfuls of the sirup to a glass 
one-half or two-thirds full of water, and stir in | tea-spoonful of pulver- 
ized super-carbonate of soda. This is a cheap and delicious beverage, 
much better and healthier than soda water; easily made, and can be kept 
any length of time without deteriorating. Keep in a glass vessel, as 
nietul of any kind would spoil it. 



8 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

Portable Lemovnde. — Tartaric acid, I ounce, loaf sugar, 3 ounces, essence 
of lemon, h drachm. Powder the tartaric acid and the sugar very fine 
in a porcelain inortar, mix them togetlier, and pour on the essence of 
lemon by a few drops at a time, stirring the mixture after each addition 
till the whole is added, then mix thoroughly and divide into twelve equal 
parts, wrapping each up suparatel}^ in white paper. "When wanted for 
use, dissolve in a tumbler of cold water, and you will have good lemon- 
ade. Convenient for persons traveling, where they cannot procure drinks 
suitable to taste. 

WINES, COEDIALS, AND OTHEE LIQUORS. 

Red Currant Wine. — Take cold soft water, 11 gallons; red currants, 8 
gallons; raspberries, from 1 to 3 quarts. Eerment and strain. Mix raw 
sugar, 20 pounds; beet root, sliced, 2 pounds; and red tartar, in tine pow- 
der, 3 ounces. Put in one nutmeg, in tine powder, and add 1 gallon 
brandy. This will make 18 gallons. 

White Currant Wine. — Take cold soft water, 9 gallons ; white currants, 

9 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix refined sugar, 25 pounds; white 
tartar, in powder, 1 ounce; clary seed, bruised, 2 ounces, or clary tiowers, 
or sorrel tiowers, 4 handfuls, then add white brandy, 1 gallon. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

Black Currant Wine. — Cokl soft water, 10 gallons; black currants, 6 
gallons; strawberries, 3 gallons. Eerment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 
25 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 ounces; orange thyme, 2 hands- 
ful; then add brandy 2 or 3 quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 

Strawberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 7 gallons ; eider, 6 gallons ; 
strawberries, G gallons. Eerment and strain. Mix raw sugar, IG pounds ; 
red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; the peel and juice of 2 lemons; then 
add brand}', 2 or 3 quarts. 

Rasjiberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cidei*, 4 gallons; 
raspberries, 6 gallons. Eerment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 18 or 20 
pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; orange and lemon peel, 2 
ounces dry, or 4 ounces fresh. Then add 3 quarts brandy. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

Elderberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 16 gallons; Malaga raisins, 
50 pounds; elderberries, 4 gallons; red tartar, in fine powder, 4 ounces. 
Mix ginger, in powder, 5 ounces; cinnamon, cloves, and mace, of each 2 
ounces; peel and juice of 3 oranges or lemons. Then add 1 gallon of 
brandy. This will make 18 gallons. 

Gooseberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 3 gallons , gooseberries, 3^ 
gallons. Eerment and strain. Now mix raw sugar, 5 pounds; honey, 1^ 
pounds; tartar, in fine powder, 1 ounce. Afterward put in bitter almonds 
2 ounces; sweetbriar, 1 small handful, and brandy 1 gallon or less. 

Compound Wine. — An excellent family wine may be made of equal parts 
of red, white, and blackcurrants, ripe cherries and raspberries, well bruised 
and mixed with soft water, in the proportion of 4 pounds of fruit to one 
gallon of water. 'When strained and pressed, 3 pounds of moist sugar 
are to be added to each gallon of the liquid. After straining, open for 
three days, during w'hich it is to be stirred frequently; it is to be put in. 
a barrel, and left for two weeks to work, when a ninth part of brandy is 
to be added, and the whole bunged down. In a few months it will be a 
most excellent wine, inferior to none. 

Blackberry Wine. — Having procured berries that are fully ripe, put 
them into a large vessel of wood or stone, with a cock in it, and pour 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. ^ 

upon them as much boiling water as will cover them. As soon as the 
heat will permit the hand to he put into the vessel, bruise them well till 
all the berries are broken. Then let them stand covered till the berries 
begin to rise toward the top, which ihQj generally do in three or four 
days. Then draw off the clear into another vessel, and add to every ton 
quarts of this liquor 1 pound of sugar. Stir it well, and let it stand to 
work a week or ten days, in another vessel. Take 4 ounces of isinglass, 
and lay it to steep twelve hours in a pint of white wine. The next morn- 
ing boil it upon a slow fire till it is all dissolved. Then take a gallon of 
blackberry juice, put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, 
and pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and settle, 
then draw it off, and keep in a cool place. 

Another Method. — Take ripe blackberries, press the juice from them, 
let it stand thirty-six hours to ferment (lightly covered,) and skim off 
whatever rises to'the top; then to every gallon of the juice add 1 quart 
of water and 3 pounds of sugar, (brown will do,) let it stand in an opeii 
vessel for twenty-four hours; skim and strain it, then barrel it. Let it 
stand eight or nine hours, when it should be racked off, bottled, and corked 
close. It improves by age. 

Rhubarb Wine.—7QQ\ and slice the stalk of the leaf, as for pies ; put a 
very small quantity of water m the vessel, only just enough to cover the 
bottom; cover the vessel, and gradually bring to a very slight boil ; then 
strain, passing all the liquid; to this liquid add an equal quantity of 
water; to each gallon (after nuxed,) add 4 to 5 pounds of brown sugay; 
set aside, ferment and skim like currant wine; leave in the cask and in 
bulk as long as possible before using. All wine is best kept in casks. 

Another.— T'c^kQ of sliced rhubarb, 2i ounces; lesser cardamon seeds, 
bruised and husked, J ounce; saffron, 2" drachms; Spanish white wine, 2 
pints; proof spirit, ^ pint. Digest for ten days, and strain. This is a 
warm cordial, laxative medicine, good in weakness of the stomach and 
bowels, and for regulating and strengthening the whole viscera. 

Damson Wine. — Cold soft water, 11 gallons; damson plums, 8 gallons. 
Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 
ounces; brandy, 1 gallon. 

Cherry Wine. — Cold soft water, 10 gallons; cherries, 10 gallons. Fer- 
ment. Mix raw sugar, 30 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; 
brandy, two or thre'e quarts. Two days after the cherries have been in 
the vat, take out about 3 quarts, break the stones and return them to the 
vat again. 

Peach TFm^.— Cold soft water, 18 gallons; refined sugar, 25 pounds; 
honey, 6 pounds; white tartar, in fine powder, 2 ounces; peaches, 60 or 
80 in number. Ferment. Then add 2 gallons brandy. Put all together 
in the vat, except the peaches and brandy, and let remain one day; then 
break the peach-kernels and put them into the vat, and ferment; then add 
the brandy afterward. 

Apricot Wine. — Boil together 3 pounds of sugar and 3 quarts of water, 
and skim it well. Put in 6 pounds of apricots, pared and stoned, and let 
them boil till they become tender. Then take them up, and when the 
liquor is cold, bottle it. After taking out the apricots, let the liquor be 
boiled with a sprig of flowered clary. The apricots will make marmalade, 
and be very good for present use. 

A-pple Wine. — To every gallon of apple juice, immediately as it comes 
from the press, add 2 pounds loaf sugar ; boil it as long as any scum rises, 
then strain it through a sieve, and let it cool ; let it work in the tub for 
two or three weeks, or till the head begin.s to flatten, then skim ofl' tha 



10 THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 

head, draw it clear oft' and turn it. Wlien made a year, rack it off, and 
fine it with isinglass; then add ^ pint of the best rectified spirit of wine, 
or 1 pint of French brandy to every 8 gallons. 

Grape Wiyie. — Cold soft water, 5 gallons ; black or red grapes, 40 pounds. 
!Fernient and strain. Mix cider, 9 gallons; raw sugar, 20 })ounds; bar- 
berry leaves, 3 handfuis; beet root, sliced, 2 pounds; red tartar, in fine 
powder, 4 ounces. Add white elder flowers, 6 handfuis; or sassafras chips, 
4 pounds; brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Cold soft water, 6 gallons; any kind of grapes, 30 pounds. 
Ferment and strain. Mix treacle, 10 pounds; beet root, sliced, H pounds; 
red tartar, in powder, 2 ounces ; rosemary leaves, 2 handfuis ; brandy, ^ 
gallon. This will make 9 gallons. 

Another. — Cold soft water, 8 gallons; grapes of any sort, 100 pounds. 
Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 20 pounds; beet root, sliced, 4 
pounds; barberry leaves, 4 handfuis; red tartar, in line powder, 6 ounces. 
Add coriander seed, bruised, 2 ounces; brandy, 6 quarts. This will make 
18 gallons. 

Ginger Wine. — Put into a nice boiler 10 gallons water; 15 pounds of 
lump sugar, with the whites of 6 or 8 eggs, well beaten and strained ; 
mix all well while cold. When the liquor boils, skim it well; put in | 
pound ginger root, bruised, and boil it twenty minutes. Have ready the 
rinds (cut very thin,) of 7 lemons, and pour the hot liquor on them. 
AVhen cool, put it into your cask, with two spoonfuls of yeast; put a quart 
of the warm liquor to 2 ounces of isinglass shavings; whisk it well three 
or four times, and put all into the barrel, with 1 or 2 gallons good brandy, 
or pure spirits. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle it, and in 
three months it will be a delicious, safe beverage. 

OBSEEVATIONS ON CIDEE AND WINES. 

To make good cider, the following general, but important rules should 
be attended to. They demand a little more trouble than the ordinary 
mode of collecting and mashing apples of all sorts, rotten and sound, 
sweet and sour, dirty and clean, from the tree and the ground, and the 
rest of the slovenly process usually employed : 1. Always choose perfectly 
ripe and sound fruit. 2. Pick the apples by hand. An active boy, with 
a bag slung over his shoulders, will soon clear a tree. Apples that have 
laid any time on the soil contract an earthy taste, which will always be 
found in the cider. 3. After sweating, and before ground, wipe them 
dry, and if any are found bruised and rotten, put them in a heap by 
themselves, for an inferior cider to make vinegar. 4. Always use hair 
cloths, instead of straw, to place between the layers of pummage. The 
straw, when heated, gives a disagreeable taste to the cider. 5. As the 
cider runs from the press, let it pass through a hair sieve, into a large 
open vessel, that will hold as much juice as can be expressed in one day. 
In a day, or sometimes less, the pummice will rise to the top, and in a 
short time grow very thick; when little white bubbles break through it, 
draw off" the liquor by a spiggot, placed about three inches from the bot- 
tom, so that the lees may be left quietly behind. 6. The cider must be 
drav/n oft" into very clean, sweet casks, and closel}" watched. The moment 
the white bubbles before mentioned are perceived rising to the bunghole, 
rack it again. When the fermentation is completely at an end, fill up 
the cask with cider in all respects like that contained in it, and bung it 
up tight, previous to Vv'hich a tumbler of sweet oil may be poured into 
the bung-hole. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 11 

"When cider has fermented for about one week in a cask, add half a 
pound of white sugar to every gallon; then allow it to ferment further 
until it has acquired a brisk and pleasant taste. An ounce of the sulphite 
of lime is then added to every gallon of cider in the cask, and the whole 
agitated for a few minutes, and then left to settle. The sulphite of lime 
arrests the fermentation, and, in the course of a few days, the clear cider 
may be poured off and bottled, when it will retain the same taste that it 
had when the sulphite was added. About an ounce of the sulphite of 
lime added to a gallon of cider, in any stage of fermentation, will pre- 
serve it from further change. A sparkling cider wine is produced by the 
mode described. 

The following is another method of making cider wine: Take pure cider, 
as it runs from the press, and add a pound of brown sugar to every quart, 
and pat it into a clean cask, which should be filled to within about 
two gallons of the top. The cask is then placed in a moderately cool 
cellar or apartment, and the cider allowed to ferment slowly, by the bung- 
hole being left open till it has acquired the proper taste and sparkles, when 
a small quantity is drawn. The cask is then bunged up tight. 

Grape wine should be allowed to remain for a long period in oak casks, 
after it is made, before it is bottled, otherwise it will be comparatively 
sour to the taste. This is owing to the great quantity of the tartrate of 
potash in the juice of the grape. When standing in a wooden cask, the 
tartrate is deposited from the wine, and adheres to the interior surfaces 
of the vessel, and it forms a thick and hard stony crust called "argol." 
This is the substance of which our creara-of-tartar and tartaric acid are 
made. In its crude state it is employed by silk and woolen d^^ers in pro- 
ducing scarlet, pui'ple, and claret colors, in conjunction with cochineal and 
logwood. This explains the cause of wines becoming sweeter the longer 
they stand in casks in a cool situation. 

Wines may be made of the juice of the sorghum-cane, by permitting it 
to ferment for a short period in the same manner as has been described 
for cider, then closing up the cask tight, to prevent access of air. The 
fermentation of all saccharine juices is due to the combination, chemi- 
cally, of the oxygen of the air with some of the carbon in the sugar of the 
juice. A small quantity of alcohol is thus generated and absorbed by the 
fermented juice. Carbonic acid gas is also generated; Avhen absorbed by 
the liquid and retained under pressure, this gas imparts the sparkling 
property of wine. When the saccharine juices are undergoing fermenta- 
tion they must be tasted frequently, for the purpose of arresting the fer- 
mentation at the proper stage, because there are two stages of fermenta- 
tion, called the vinous and acetous. The first is that in which alcohol is 
produced ; the second, vinegar. Many artificial wines have a slight vinegar 
taste, which is caused by allowing the fermentation to proceed too far. 

These hints will be useful to those who prepare liglat domestic wines 
These are now made very generally, and are held to exert a favorable 
influence in many cases of dyspepsia. 

FoTt Wine. — Good worked cider, 20 gallons; good port wine, 5 gallons; 
good foreign brandy, one and a half gallons; proof spirits, 3 gallons. 
When all are mixed, color with elderberries, aloes, or burnt sugar. 

Peppermint Cordial. — Take 1 gallon proof spirits ; 1 pound of loaf sugar ; 
a little more than 1 pennyweight, Troy, of oil of peppermint, and one 
half gallon of w^ater. 

Blackberry Cordial. — To 1 quart of blackberry juice, add 1 pound of 
white sugar, 1 table-spoonful of cloves, 1 of allspice, 1 of cinnamon, and 1 
of nutmeg. Boil all together fifteen minutes; add a wine-glass of whisky, 



12 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

brand}'-, or rum. Bottle while hot, cork tight and seal. This is almost a 
specitio in diarrhea. One dose of a wine-glassful for an adult — half that 
quantity for a child — will often cure diarrhea. It can be taken three or 
four times a day, if the case is severe. 

LIQUOES. 

As nearly all the liquors now used, especially those of a cheap grade, 
are manufactured from whisky and poisonous compounds, those who deal 
in such articles, especially druggists, should make their own. according to 
the following recipes: 

Brandy. — Take pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons ; best of French brandy, 
1 gallon ; loaf sugar, half a pound : sweet spirits of niter, 2 ounces. Color 
with burnt sugar. 

Gin. — Pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons; Holland gin, 1 gallon; oil of juni- 
per, 8 scruples; oil of anise, 1-10 ounce. 

Rum. — Pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons, good Jamaica or St. Croix rum, 1 
gallon; oil of caraway, 1-16 ounce. 

These liquors are pure, and nmch better than those you buy ready 
manufactured — nine-tenths of which are made from bad whisky and nox- 
ious drugs. Those who are able, had better buy the 2nire foreign article 
from responsible parties; but at the present prices (from $8 to $12 per 
gallon) few are able to obtain it even for medicinal purposes ; besides, in 
most cases of sickness, that manufactured according to the above, answers 
every purpose. The coloring matter is made as follows: Take any quan- 
tity of white sugar and mix with water till about the consistency of a thin 
mush; now put in an iron kettle or spider, and burn over a hot stove till 
it becomes of a deep-red black color, quite thick, and smells strongly from 
the burning. Add a little warm water, to prevent its hardening, and use 
this to color all kinds of liquors requiring any. 

Cherry Bounce. — Take 1 barrel pure spirits, and put in from one-half to 
one bushel black (wild) cherries, and 6 or 8 pounds loaf sugar. You can 
reduce the strength by adding pure well, rain, or distilled water. 

Black Cherry Brandy. — Stone 8 pounds of black cherries and put on them 
1 gallon of brand}^ ; now bruise the stones in a mortar, and then add them 
to tbe brandy; cover them close, and let them stand from four to six 
weeks; then pour it clear from the sediment and bottle. Morella cher- 
ries, managed in this wa3^ make a line, rich cordial. 

Raspberry Brandy. — Take 1 gallon brandy, and \ gallon water, and put 
into a stone jug, jar, or demijohn, and then add 1 gallon raspberries, and 
1 pound of loaf sugar, and let it remain for a week closely covered ; then 
take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland over it, and let it run 
through gradually. It may be racked into other bottles in a week after, 
and then it will be fine. Blackberry brandy ma}^ be made in the same way. 

Vinegar. — 1 gallon alcohol, 8 gallons water, 1 quart molasses, and a dozen 
white beans, done up in a brown paper, to form the mother. Let it stand 
two or three weeks in a warm place. This is equal to cider vinegar. 

Another. — To 3 gallons soft water, add 1 quart molasses, 1 pint of yeast, 
and 1 ounce of cream tartar; let it stand four weeks in a warm place; 
then add as nmch sweetened water each week as you use of the vinegar. 
Cold tea is excellent to replenish vinegar. 

DYEING. 

To Dye Black. — Allow a pound of logwood to each pound of goods that 
are to be dyed. Soak it over night in soft water, then boil it an hour, and 



THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 13 

strain the water in wliicli it is boiled. For each pound of logwood, dis- 
solve an ounce of blue vitriol in lukewarm water, sufficient to wet the 
goods. Dip the goods in; when saturated with it, turn the whole into the 
logwood dye. If the goods are cotton, set the vessel on the fire, and let 
the gcods boil ten or fifteen minutes, stirring them constantly to prevent 
their spotting. Silk and woolen goods should not be boiled in the dye- 
stuff, but it should be kept at a scalding heat for twenty minutes. Drain 
the goods without wringing, and hang them in a dry, shady place, where 
theywill have the air. When dry, set the color, by putting them into scald- 
ing hot water that has salt in it, in the proportion of a teacupful to three 
gallons of the water. Let the goods remain in till cold ; then hang them 
in a place where they will dry (they should not be wrung) Boiling hot 
suds is the best thing to set the coloi" of black silk; let it remain in it till 
cold. Soaking black-dyed goods in sour milk is also good to set the 
color. 

Green and Blue Dye^ for Silks and Woolms. — For green dye, take a pound 
of oil of vitriol, and turn it upon half an ounce of Spanish indigo, that has 
been reduced to a fine powder. Stir them well together, then add a lump 
of pearlash of the size of a pea; as soon as the fermentation ceases, bottle 
it; the dye will be fit for use the next day. Chemic blues are made in the 
same manner, only using half the quantity of vitriol. For woolen goods, 
the East indigo will answer as well as the Spanish, and comes much lower. 
This dye will not answer for cotton goods, as the vitriol rots the threads, 
"Wash the articles that are to be dyed till perfectly clean, and free from 
color. If you can not extract the color by rubbing it in hot suds, boil it 
out; rinse it in soft water till entirely free from soap, as the soap will 
ruin the dye. To dye a pale color, put to each quart of soft warm water, 
that is to be used for the dye, ten drops of the above composition; if you 
wish a deep color, more will be necessary. Put in the articles without 
crowding, and let them remain in it till of a good color; the dye-stuff 
should be kept warm. Take the articles out without wringing; drain as 
nuich of the dye out of them as possible, then hang them to dry in a 
shady, airy phuie. They should be dyed when the weather is dry; if not 
dried quickly, they will not look well. When perfectly dry, wash then) 
in luke\Yarm suds, to keep the vitriol from injui-ing the texture of the 
cloth. If you wish for a lively, bright green, mix a little of the above 
composition with yellow dye. 

Fellow Dyes. — To dye a buff-color, boil equal parts of arnotto and com- 
mon potash in soft clear w^ater. When dissolved, take it from the tire ; 
when cool, put in the goods, which should previously be washed free from 
spots and color ; set them on a moderate fire, where they will keep hot, 
till the goods are of the shade you wish. To dye salmon and orange-color 
tie arnotto in a bag, and soak it in warm soft-soap suds till it becomes 
soft, so that you can squeeze enough of it through the bag to make the 
suds a deep yellow ; put in the articles, which should be clean, and free 
from color; boil them till of the shade you wish. There should l3e enough 
of the dye to cover the goods; stir them while boiling, to keep them from 
spotting. This dye will make a salmon or orange color, according to 
the strength of it, and the time the goods remain in it. Drain them 
out of the dye, and dry them quickly in the shade; when dry, wash them 
in soft soap suds. Groods dyed in this manner should never be rinsed in 
clear water. Peach leaves, fustic, and saflron, all make a good straw or 
lemon color, according to the strength of the dye. They should be steeped 
in soft fair water, in an earthen or tin vessel, and then strained, and the 
dye set with alum, and a little gum Arabic dissolved in the dye, if you 



14 THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 

wish to stiffen the article. When the dye-stuH' is strained, steep the 
articles in it. 

Red Dyes. — Madder makes a good durable red, but not a brilliant color. 
To make a dye of it, allow, for half a pound of it, 3 ounces of alum, and 1 
of creain-of-tartar, and 6 gallons of water. This proportion of ingredients 
will make sufficient dye for six or seven pounds of goods. Heat half of 
the water scalding hot, in a clean brass kettle; then put in the alum and 
cream-of-tartar, and let it dissolve. When the water boils, stir the alum 
and tartar up in it; put in the goods, and let them boil a couple of hours; 
then rinse them in fair water, empty the kettle, and put in three gallons 
of water and the madder; rub it line in the water, then put in the goods, 
and set them where they will keep scalding hot for an hour without boil- 
ing: stir them constantly. When they have been scalding an hour, in- 
crease the fire till they bo^il. Let them boil live minutes; then drain thcrn 
out of the dye, and rinse them, without wringing, in fair water, and hang 
thetn in the shade where they will dry. 

Slate-colored Dye.— To make a good dark slate-color, boil sugar-loaf 
paper with vinegar, in an iron utensil ; put in alum to set the color. Tea 
grounds, set with copperas, make a good slate-color. To produce a light 
slate-color, boil white maple bark in clear water, with a little alum; the 
bark should be boiled in a brass utensil. The dye for slate-color should 
be strained before the goods are put into it. They should be boiled in it, 
and then hung where they will drain and dry. 

To Dye a Lively and Beautiful Drab. — Light-colored fabrics — cotton, 
silk, linen, or wool — such as gloves, stockings, t&c, can be dyed a beautiful 
drab as follows: To a pint of rain water add six or eight grains of nitrate 
of silver; when it is dissolved, stir it well, and immerse the perfectly clean 
fabric. See that it is well and evenly saturated, for which use a stick, 
not a spoon, nor the hands. When thoroughly soaked, it may be quickly 
wrung out with the hands, they being instantly washed. In a pint of 
water dissolve one quarter of an ounce of sulphuret of potassium, place 
the goods in it, and saturate well; then wash in clear water, and it is 
finished. It is better that the first-named solution should be hot, and a 
little time taken for wool. Glass vessels must be used. 

A Few Hints on Dyeing. — To those who wish to have certain fabrics 
dyed, the following information will be found useful as i-egards the colors 
they will take. Thus, if tlie material be black, it can only be dyed black; 
brown, dark green, dark crimson, djtrk claret, and dark olive. Brown can 
only be dyed black, dark brown, dark claret. Dark green: black, dark 
brown, dark green, dark claret, dark olive. Light green : dark green, 
black, dark brown, dark crimson, dark claret, dark olive. Dark crimson: 
black, brown, dark crimson, dark claret. Light crimson will take the 
same as dark crimson. Claret : black, brown, dark crimson, dark claret. 
Pawn will take dark crimson, dark green, black, brown, dark claret. 
Puce: black, brown, dark olive, dark crimson, dark claret. Dark blue: 
black, brown, dark crimson, dark green, dark claret, dark olive, dark blue. 
Pale blue : dark crimson, dark green, black, brown, claret, puce, dark 
blue, dark olive, lavender, orange, yellow. Olive will dye brown, black, 
dark green, dark crimson, dark claret. Lavender: black, brown, dark 
crimson, claret, lavender, olive. Pink: dark crimson, dark green, black, 
brown (as all tints will take a black and brown, these colors will not be 
repeated), pink, olive, dark blue, dark puce, dark fawn. Kose, same as 
pink, but also orange, scarlet, and giratfe. Straw, primrose, and yellow 
will dye almost any color required; as also will peach and girafie. Gray 
will only dye, besides brown and black, dark green, dark claret, dark 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 15 

crimson, dark fawn, dark blue. "White silk, cotton, and woolen goodo, 
can be dyed any color. As cotton, silk, and wool all take dye diiferently, 
it is almost impossible to re-dye a fabric of mixed stuff" any color except 
the dark ones named. It will be observed by the above list that pale blue 
will re-dye better than any other color. 

MISCELLAI^EOUS. 

Arnica Hair Wash. — When the hair is falling off" and becoming thin 
from the frequent use of castor, macassar oils, &c., or when premature 
baldness arises from illness, the Arnica hair wash will be found of great 
service in arresting the mischief. It is thus prepared : Take elder water, 
half a pint; sherry wine, half a pint; tincture of arnica, half an ounce, 
alcoholic ammonia, one drachm — if this last named ingredient is old and. 
has lost its strength, then two drachms instead of one may be employed. 
The whole of these are to be mixed in a lotion bottle, and applied to the 
head every night with a sponge. Wash the head with warm water 
twice a week. Soft brushes only must be used during the growth of the 
young hair. 

Lotion for Restoring the Color of Gray Hair. — Take half an ounce of 
sulphur steeped in alcohol, and a quarter of an ounce of sugar of lead, 
mixed with ten ounces of rose water, in a phial. The phial should be 
shaken every time the liquid is applied, which should be every evening, 
with a sponge, for about a week at first, then twice a week after the color 
of the hair is restored. The head should be covered with a close glazed 
linen cap after this lotion is put on. 

Pornaiutn for Growth, of the Hair. — This pomatum, applied to the scalp, 
acts as a stimulant to the roots of the hair, and as a nourisher to the hair 
itself, by stimulating the capillary vessels. In the immediate neighbor- 
hood of hair-bulb, the blood particles are more numerous and active. 
The ammonia, containing, as it does, nitrogen, one of the principal con- 
stituents of hair, horn, and nail, affords one of its direct elements of for- 
mation, and hence its value as a nourisher. It is utterly impossible for the 
animal economy to create hair out of any oil, because oil is destitute of 
nitrogen, but if grease be combined with ammonia, which yields nitrogen, 
then great benefit will be derived from the poma'de so made. All po- 
mades and oils that are used for the hair only act as a polish, but afi'ord 
no nourishment. The following is a simple form for making the ammo- 
niacal pomatum: Take almond oil, a quarter of a pound; white wax, 
half an ounce; clarified lard, throe ounces; liquid ammonia, a quarter 
fluid ounce; otto lavender and cloves, of each, one di-achm. Place the 
oil, wax, and lard into ajar, which set into boiling water; when the wax 
is melted, allow the grease to cool till nearly ready to set, then stir in 
the ammonia and the perfume, and put into small jars for use. Never 
use a hard brush, nor comb the hair too much; apply the pomade at 
night only. 

Another Coloring for the Hair. — The following method is probably 
more simple, and safer than any other: Take equal parts of vinegar, 
lemon juice, and powdered litharge; boil for half an hour on a slow fire ; 
wet the hair with this decoction, and in a short time it will turn black. 

Milk of Abnoiidf,^ fur the Complexion. — This much admired and harm- 
less cosmetic may be prepared thus: Procure a quarter of a pound of 
the best Jordan almonds, which blanch, by putting them into boiling 
water for three minutes, and afterward into cold water for the same time* 



10 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

the skin or pellicle will then slip off 1)}^ pressure between the thumb and 
linger. The almonds are now to be crushed in a mortar, and rubbed with 
J, a quarter of an ounce of the best white or curd soap. Continue the 
rubbing for a quarter of an hour, during which period gradually add one 
quart of rose water. When the whole resembles milk, strain through fine 
mu.slin. It is then fit for use, and may be applied to the skin with the 
corner of a soft towel, after washing. Those who are without a mortar 
must grate the almonds on a bread grater, and rub the ingredients together 
with clean hands. Fresli rain water, or plain distilled water, will answer 
in lieu of rosewater, where economy is studied. 

Powder for Chafed Skin. — This preparation is universally applied for 
drying the skin, after washing, especially at the joints, which, if left even 
damp at certain seasons, produces chaps and chafing, often followed, if 
neglected, by inflammation. Violet powder is best prepared by mixing 
three parts of the best wheat starch with one of finely-ground orris root: 
the latter adds to the drying power of the starch, and imparts at the same 
time an agreeable odor, like that of the violet; hence the name of the mix- 
ture. It is also prepared by perfuming starch with essential oils without 
the addition of orris root; but though the scent of the powder is stronger, 
and to some more tempting to use, it is far less beneficial in its appli- 
cation. The scent, acting as a stimulant to the skin, increases rather 
than abates any tendency to redness. Unperfumed powder is therefore 
best to use, dusted over the part with a little swan's down, commonly 
called a pufl*. 

For Whitening the Skin, and Removing Freckles and Tan. — Take one 
ounce of borax, two ounces of cologne, one quart of alcohol, and three 
quarts of rain water. Bathe three times a day in a solution of two tea- 
spoonfuls in two table-spoonfuls of water. 

Ointment for Chapped Hands. — Take sweet oil, 3 ounces; spermaceti, 4 
ounces, and pulverized camphor, 1 ounce. Mix them together in a clean 
earthenware vessel, by the aid of gentle heat, and apply it warm to the 
hands night and morning. Another very good ointment for chapped 
hands is made with a little fresh newly-churned butter and honey. 

Cure for Bunions and Corns. — The tincture of iodine applied to bunions 
is said to afl'ord great relief. A strong solution of pearlash, applied to 
corns, will soften them so that they may be easil}^ drawn out. 

To Remove Warts.-^Take ashes made from burnt willow bark, and 
mix with sweet cider, and apply several times, and they will soon dis- 
appear. 

Cure for Chilblains. — Apply a wash made of 1 part of muriatic acid 
and 7 parts of water. 

To Destroy Flies. — To 1 pint of milk add \ pound of raw sugar and 
2 ounces ground pepper; simmer them together eight or ten minutes, 
and place it about in shallow dishes. The llies attack it greedily, and are 
soon suftbcated. By this method kitchens, &c., may be kept clear of flies 
all summer, whithout the danger>rittending poison. 

Wash for Fruit Trees. — Take 3 gallons of lye, from wood ashes, strong 
enough to just float an egg ; 1 pinl of soft soap, \ pound of niter, and a 
handful of common salt. The niter should be dissolved in warm water; 
then add the salt and other ingredients, and stir until thoroughly incor- 
porated. Apply it to the trunks and large branches of the trees with a 
common (painter's) brush. It should not be applied to very young 
branches, or the leaves. 

Remedy for CurcuUo zw Fruit Trees. — Sawdust, saturated with coal-oil, 
and placed at the roots of the tree, will be a sure preventive. 



THE house-keeper's guide. 17 

Another. — It is said that tans}'-, bound upon the limbs of phim-trees, 
will be an effectual antidote against the ravages of this insect. 

To Take Out Stains. — Take half a pint of water, dissolve in it half an 
ounce of salt of sorrel ; add 2 ounces of spirits of wine. Shake them 
well together. Rub the liquid on the stains with a sponge. 

To Remove Stains from Broadcloth. — Take 1 ounce of pipe-clay, that 
has been ground fine, and mix it with 12 drops of alcohol, and the same 
quantit}^ of spirits of turpentine. Whenever you wish to remove any 
stains from cloth, moisten a little of this mixture and rub it on the spots. 
Let it remain till dry, then rub it oft' with a woolen cloth, and the spots 
will disappear. 

To I{emx>ve Black Stains from Scarlet Woolen Goods. — Mix tartaric acid 
with' water, to give it a splendid acid taste, then saturate the black spot 
with it, taking care not to have it touch the clean part of the garment. 
Rinse the spots immediately in fair water. Weak pearlash water is good 
to remove stains of acids. 

To Extract Grease from Silks, Woolen Goods, Paper, and Floors. — 
Grate on them very thick French chalk, (common will answer, but it is 
not so good,) cover the spots with brown paper, and set on a moderately 
warm iron, and let it remain till cool. Care must be taken not to have 
the iron so hot as to scorch or change the color of the cloth. If the 
grease does not appear to be out, on removing the iron, grate on more 
chalk, heat the iron again, and put it on. Repeat the process till the 
grease is entirely out. Strong pearlash water, mixed with sand, or the 
washing fluid used in washing, will remove grease spots from floors, if 
well scrubbed. 

Another Method of Extracting Grease from Cloth. — Take \ pint alcohol 
and add 10 grains carbonate of potash, J ounce oil bergamot, and 1 ounce 
sulphuric ether; mix, and keep in a glass-stopped bottle. Apply with 
a piece of sponge, soaking the cloth thoroughly when the grease is not 
recent. The mixture emits a peculiarly fragrant odor, and being a fluid 
soap, chemically composed, will be found a perfect solvent for oily mat- 
ter. This, probably, is the best remedy extant for removing grease spots. 

Removing Stains. — Ox-gall is an excellent article for removing oil 
stains from delicate-colored fabrics. It often fixes and brightens colors, 
but will slightly soil pure white materials. Alcohol or strong whisky 
washes out stains of oil, wax, resin and pitchy or resinous substances; 
so also docs spirits of turpentine, and generally without injury to colors. 
The turpentine may afterward be removed with alcohol or whisky. 
Common burning fluid, which is a mixture of alcohol and turpentine, (or 
camphene,) is an excellent solvent of oil, wax, tar, resin, etc., and it soon 
dries off after use. Ink stains, or iron mold, may generally be removed 
with the juice of lemons or of sorrel leaves. If these fail, oxalic acid is 
almost infallible. Moisten the stain spots with water and rub on a little 
powdered oxalic acid, which can be cheaply obtained at any druggist's. 
Wash oft" the acid ver}^ thoroughly, soon after it is put on, or it will eat 
the fabric. If children are present, remember that oxalic acid is poison- 
ous in the mouth, though not so on the hands, if not kept long upon them. 

Moistening a cloth and holding it a few minutes over the fumes of 
burning sulphur will bleach out most colors and stains. Be careful not 
to burn the fabrics. The fumes may be conducted to any particular spot 
by a paper roller, in funnel shape, (or a common tin funnel,) held over the 
fumes of sulphur burning upon a shovel. The sulphur fumes are spe- 
cially applicable to stains of fruit, and of vegetable juices generally. 
These may frequently be removed by dipping the fabric in sour milk and 
2 



18 THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 

dryi)ig it in the sun, repeating the operation several times if needed. All 
oil}' substances (except paint oils,) can be expelled from carpets by holding 
a very hot iron as near as it can be placed without burning. Porous 
paper, or common brown paper laid upon a grease spot and run over sev- 
eral times with a hot sad-iron (flat-iron,) will absorb the oil. 

Ox-gall has been used from time immemorial, by jobbing dyers, for re- 
moving grease stains from delicate colored woolen fabrics. It is mixed 
with cold water at the rate of about three gallons of water to the contents 
of one ox-gall. The fabric is immersed in this and squeezed between the 
hands, or slightly pounded until the stains are removed. The fabric must 
then be very thoroughly washed in cold water, for if any of the gall is 
left in it the odor becomes very otfensive. Strong cold soap suds, or a 
bath of dilute aqua ammonia, is preferable to ox-gall in cleaning such 
fabrics. 

Oxalic, acetic, or any other acid must never be used to remove ink and 
iron stains from any kind of cloth but that which is white, because these 
acids will discharge pink, lilac, and other colors. The best way to use 
oxalic acid to remove ink stains from white muslin is to put some of the 
crystals of the salt upon the stain — making a small bag of the cloth 
between the lingers — and pour some hot water upon them until they are 
dissolved, when the stain will have disappeared with the crystals of tho 
acid. 

A mixture of alcohol and turpentine (burning fluid) is excellent for 
removing grease and other stains from light-colored gloves and silks. 
Benzole is also equally as good; but when using these substances beware 
of coming near a fire or a light of any kind, as they are very inflam- 
mable, and many painful accidents from burning have occurred by their 
careless use. 

To Remove Resin Spots frovi Silk. — Many silk dresses receive stains 
from turpentine being spilled upon them. These stains are due to the resin 
which is held in solution by the turpentine, and w^hich remains in the silk 
after the volatile or spirituous portion has evaporated. Alcohol, applied 
to the stains with a clean sponge, will remove the spots, because alcohol 
dissolves the resin. The silk stains should be moistened with the alcohol 
first, and allowed to remain soaked for a few minutes. Fresh alcohol is 
then applied with the sponge, and with a slight rubbing motion. It is 
then wiped as dry as possible and afterward permitted to dry perfectly 
in the open air. Alcohol also removes grease and oil spots from silk and 
woolen dresses, but oil generally leaves a yellow stain behmd. A mixture 
of alcohol and the refined light petroleum, called benzone, is excellent 
for cleaning light kid gloves, I'ibbons, and silks. It is applied Avith a clean 
sponge. Persons who apply these liquors and mixtures to cleaning silks, 
gloves, &c., must be careful to do so in an apartment where there is neither 
fire nor lamp burning, under the penalty of an explosion. 

To Remove Grease Spots from Wool. — In removing the grease from 
wool, use a very weak alkaline solution as a substitute for soap, because 
if the solution is too strong it will act chemically upon the wool, tending 
to dissolve it, and thus impair its strength and luster. 

-- Solvent for Old Putty and Paint. — Soft soap mixed with a solution of 
potash or caustic soda; or pearlash and slaked lime mixed with suflicient 
water to form a paste. Either of these, laid on with an old brush or rag, 
and left for some hours, will render it easily removable. 

To remove the stains on spoons caused by using them for boiled egg, 
take a little common salt, moist between tho thumb and finger, and briskly 
rub the stain, which will soon disappear. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 19 

Tq Clean Paint. — Smear a piece of flannel in common M^hiting, mixed 
to the consistency of common paste, in warm water. Eub the surface to 
be cleaned quite briskly, and wash off with pure cold water. Grease spots 
will, in this way, be almost instantly removed, as well as other filth, and 
the paint will retain its brilliancy and beaut}^ unimpaired. 

To Remove Ink Stains. — As soon as the ink is spilled, take a little milk 
and saturate the stain, soak it up with a ratCr f^i'f^ J-^PP^y ^ little more milk, 
rubbing it well. In a few minutes the ink will be completely removed. 

To Jiernove Mildew. — Wet the cloth which contains the mildew with 
soft water; rub it well with white soap, then scrape some fine chalk to 
powder, and rub it well into the cloth; lay it out on the grass in the sun- 
shine, watching it, to keep it damp with soft w^ater. Repeat the process 
the next day, and in a few hours the mildew will all disappear. 

To Keep Silk. — Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper, 
as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably impair 
the color of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better; the yellowish smooth 
India paper is best of all. Silk intended for dress should not be kept long 
in the house before it is made up, as lying in the folds will have a ten- 
dency to injpairits durabilit}'^ by causing it to cut or split, particularly if 
the silk has been thickened by gum. Thread lace vails are very easily 
cut; satin and velvet being soft, are not easily cut, but dresses of velvet 
should not be laid by with any weight above them. If the nap of thin 
velvet is laid down, it is not possible to raise it up again. Hard silk 
should never be wrinkled, because the thread is easil}^ broken in the 
crease, and it never can be rectified. The way to take the wrinkles out 
of silk scarfs or handkerchiefs is to moisten the surface evenly with a 
sponge and some weak glue, and then pin the silk with toilet pins around 
the selvages, on a mattress or feather bed, taking pains to draw out the 
silk as tight as possible. When dry, the wrinkles will have disappeared. 
The reason of this is obvious to every person. It is a nice job to dress 
light colored silk, and few should try it. Some silk articles may be moist- 
ened with weak glue or gum water, and the wrinkles ironed out on the 
wrong side by a hot flat iron. 

To Prevent the Ravages of the Woolen Moth. — The ravages of the woolen 
moth may bo prevented, in a measure, by the use of any of the following 
substances: camphor; and perhaps the most agreeable for wearing ap- 
parel, a mixture of one ounce of cloves, one ounce of rhubarb, and one 
ounce of cedar shavings, tied up in a bag, and kept in a box or drawer. 
If the substance be dry, scatter it in the folds of the cloth, carpet, blanket.?, 
or furs; if liquid, scatter it freely in the boxes, or on the cloth or wrap- 
per, laid over and around it. 

To Remove Foul Air from Wells. — It is well known that many accidents 
occur to persons going down into wells to clean them, owing to the nox- 
ious gas in such places. To remove the gas before descent is made into 
any well, a quantity of burned but unslaked lime should be thrown down. 
This, when it comes in contact with whatever water is below, sets free a 
great amount of heat in the water and lime, which rushes upward, carry- 
ing all the deleterious gases with it; after which descent maybe made 
with perfect safety. The lime also absorbs carbonic acid in the well. 

Disi7ifeeta7its. — 1. 1 pint of the liquor of chloride of zinc, in 1 pailful 
of water, and 1 pound of chloride of lime in another pailful of water. 
This is perhaps the most eftective of any thing that can be used, and, when 
thrown upon decayed vegetable matter of any description, will effectually 
destroy all offensive odors. 2. 3 or 4 pounds of sulphate of iron (cop- 
peras) dissolved in a pailful of water will, in many cases, be sufficient to 



20 THE HOUaE-KEEPfiKS GUIDE. 

remove all offensive odors. 3. Chloride of lime is better to scatter about 
damp places, in yards, in damp cellars, and upon heaps of filth. 

A Cheap and Truihfnl Baroyneier. — Put a small quantity of finely pul- 
verized alum in a long, half-ounce phial, and fill it with spirits of wine; 
when the atmosphere is dry and clear, the spirits will be as clear as a crys- 
tal; but, on the approach of rain or foul weather, the alum will rise in the 
center, in the form of a spiral cloud, which is an infallible indication of 
rain or bad weather. 

To Harden Lard or Tallow Cavdles. — To 5 pounds lard or tallow, add ^ 
pound each, alum and saltpeter, first dissolved in a little water; then boil 
together till the water all evaporates. 

Candles will burn much clearer, and the tallow will not "run," if you 
steep the wicks in lime water and saltpeter, and then dry them. 

To Make Carmine. — Boil 1 pound 4 ounces of ground cochineal and a 
very little of the carbonate of soda in 4 gallons of soft water for twenty 
minutes; then take it from the fire, and a"dd 6 drachms of alum, and stir 
the mixture for a few minutes, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour 
for the dregs to subside; then run off the clear liquor; strain the sediment 
through a fine sieve or cloth, and then, when cold, add the whites of two 
eggs to the sediment; fish-glue or isinglass will answer as well as the eggs. 
The muriate of tin may be used instead of alum. The weight of the 
cochineal may be reduced to any amount to make a small quantit}-, if the 
proportions are preserved. 

Freventing the Fracture of Glass Chim^ieys. — The glass chimneys which 
are now in such extensive use, not only for oil lamps, but also for the 
burners of oil and coal gas, very frequently break, and not only expose 
to danger those who are near them, but occasion very great expense and 
inconvenience, particularly to those who are resident in the country. 
The breaking of these glasses very often arises from knots in the glass 
whcie it is less perfectly annealed, and also from an inequality of thick- 
ness at their lower end, which prevents them from expanding uniformly 
by heat. The evil arising from inequality of thickness may be cured by 
making a cut with a diamond in the bottom of the tube. 

Teeth Set on Edge. — All acid, foods, drinks, medicines, and tooth-washes 
»nd powders, are very injurious to the teeth. If a tooth is put in cider, 
vinegar, lemon juice, or tartaric acid, in a few hours the enamel will be 
completely destroyed, so that it can be removed by the finger nail as if 
it were chalk. Most people have experienced what is commonly called 
teeth set on edge. The explanation of it is, the acid of the fruit that has 
been eaten has so far softened the enamel of the tooth that the least pres- 
sure is felt by the exccedingU' small nerves which pervade the thin mem- 
brane which connects the enamel and the bony part of the tooth. Such 
an effect can not be produced without injuring the enamel. True, it will 
become hard again, when the acid has been removed by the fluids of 
the mouth, just as an egg-shell that has been softened in this way becomes 
hard again by being put in the water. "When the effect of sour fruit on 
the teeth subsides, they feel as well as ever, but they are not as well. 
And the ol'tener it is repeated, the sooner the disastrous consequences 
will bo manfested. 

Yeast. — Those who are not in the neighborhood of bakers, and can not 
procure the fermentation called yeast, may make a better substitute as 
follows : boil 1 pound flour, \ pound brown sugar, and a little salt in 
2 gallons water for an hour. When milk-warm, bottle and cork it close, 
and it will be ready for use in tweiity-four hours. 

Preserving Paintings. — Many valuable paintings that are hung against 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE, 21 

Boiled walls of inasonry, in churches and other buildings, are subjected to 
a damp atmosphere, and the canvas becomes mold3\ Old pictures, which 
have become blackened, are restored by washing them with deut-oxide 
of hydrogen, diluted in eight times its weight of water. The parts 
touched must be afterward wiped with a clean sponge and water. 

Curing Havcid Bidier. — A correspondent of the Rural Regisier g\\e?> the 
following recipe for curing rancid butter: For 100 pounds rancid butter, 
take 2 pounds fine white powdered sugar; 2 ounces saltpeter, finely pul- 
verized, and as much fine dairy salt as you wMsh to add to the butter to 
make it to your taste. The butter has^to be thoroughly washed in cold 
water before w-orking in the above ingredients. The amount used should 
be in proportion to the strongness of the butter. 

To Preserve Milk. — Put a "spoonful of horseradish into a pan of milk, 
and it will remain sweet for several days, either in the open air or in the 
cellar, while other milk will sour. 

Brilliant Whiiewash. — Take half a bushel of nice unslaked lime ; slack 
it with boiling water, cover it during the process to keep in the steam. 
Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or strainer, and add to it a peck of 
clean salt, previously w'ell dissolved in warm water; 3 pounds of ground 
rice, boiled to a thin paste, and stirred in boiling hot; ^ pound powdered 
Spanish whiting, and 1 pint of clean glue, which has been previously 
dissolved by first soaking it well, and then hanging it over a slow fire, in 
a small kettle, with a large one filled with water. Add 5 gallons of hot 
water to the whole mixture, stir it well, and let it stand a few days covered 
from the dirt. It should be put on right hot; for this purpose, it can be 
kept in a kettle or a portable furnace. It is said that about 1 pint of this 
mixture will cover a square yard, if properly applied v/ith a brush, as in 
painting. It answers as well as oil paint for wood, brick, or stone, and is 
the cheapest. It retains its brilliancy for many years. There is nothing 
of the kind that will compare with it, either for inside or outside walls. 
Coloring matter may be put in, and made of any shade you like. 

Spanish brown stirred in will make red or pink, more or less, according 
to the quantity. A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for inside walls. 
Finely pulverized common claj^, well mixed with Spanish brown, before 
it is stirred into the mixture, makes a lilac color. Lampblack in moderate 
quantities makes a slate color, very suitable for the outside of buildings. 
Lampblack and Spanish brown, mixed together, produce a reddish stone 
color. Yellow^ ochre stirred in makes j-ellow wash, but chrome goes 
farther, and makes a color generally esteemed prettier. In all these 
cases, the darkness of the shade will of course be determined by the quan- 
tity of coloring used. It is difficult to make a rule, because tastes are 
very different; it would be best to try experiments on a shingle, and let 
it dry. We have been told that green must not be mixed with lime. 
The lime destroys the color, and the color has an effect on the whitewash, 
which makes it crack and peel. If a larger quantity than five gallons is 
wanted, the same proportion should be observed. 

Zi7ic Wash for Rooms. — Mix oxide of zinc with common size, and 
apply it with a brush, like lime whitewash, to the ceiling of a room. 
After this, apply a wash, in the same manner, of the chloride of zinc, 
which will combine with the oxide and form a smooth cement with a 
shining surface. 

Preserving Butter. — Take two parts of the best common salt, one part 
of sugar, and one part of saltpeter, and blend the whole completely. 
Take 1 ounce of this composition for 1 pound of butter; work it well 



22 THE house-keeper's guide. 

into a mass and close it up for use. Butter thus cured requires to stand 
three or four weeks before it is used. 

To Make Butter Yellow^ in Winter. — Just before the termination of 
churning, put in the yolks of eggs, and your butter will be as yellow 
as gold. 

Water-proof Oil Blacking. — Take 2 ounces yellow beeswax, shaved 
fine, and 2 ounces pulverized resin, and melt in ^ pound currier's oil 
(lard will do,) over a slow fire, then add J pound fresh tallow and con- 
tinue the heat till all are thoroughly incorporated. Apply this compound 
fre(ily to all parts, the soles as well as the uppers, and dry in, by a mod- 
erate heat, llepeat the process as long as the leather will absorb the 
grease, and you will not be troubled with damp feet. While this com- 
pound is sufficiently water-proof, it does not, like India-rubber, and 
other compounds used for the same purpose, completely close the pores 
of the leather, making it impervious to the air, and thereby causing it 
to decay, but tends to preserve it to a period of double its natural wear. 
The process of alternately wetting and drying leather (by going out in 
wet weather and then drying) causes it do decay much sooner than it 
otherwise would ; and if completely saturated with this composition 
two or three times before much worn, then occasionally afterward, so 
as to fill up the pores, and keep out the water, it would last twice as 
long, 

Folish for Old Furniture. — Take 1 pint alcohol; 1 pint linseed oil; 1 
ounce powdered gum arabic; \ ounce tincture red saunders; \ ounce 
bergamot. Put it on with cotton flannel, then rub it hard with another 
dry piece. 

Another. — Dissolve beeswax in turpentine, and apply same way. 

To Prevent Flies from Injuring Pi dure frames, Glasses, etc. — Boil three 
or four onions in 1 pint of water; then, with a gilding brush do over your 
glass and frames, and the flies will not alight on the articles so washed. 
This maybe used without apprehension, and it will not do the least injury 
to the frames. 

2h Clean Silver and Britannia. — Use whiting, finely-powdered, and 
moistened with alcohol. 

To Make Cloth Fire-Proof. — Take 2J pounds sugar of lead, ^ pound 
litharge, and boil them for half an hour in 4 gallons water, when the liquor 
is allowed to settle. Any quantity of the clear fluid that will suflice to 
cover the cloth to be operated upon, is now taken, and the cloth immersed 
and freely saturated in it; then dried in the open air. 

The cloth is now immersed in a hot and moderately strong solution of 
silicate of soda, then thoroughly washed in cold water, and dried. Chil- 
dren's clothes prepared in this way will not take fire. 

Porous Water-Proof Cloth. — This quality is given to cloth by simply 
passing it through a hot solution of weak glue and alum. This is what 
is done by paper-makers to make writing paper, the very thing which 
constitutes the difterence between it and blotting paper, only on cloth the 
nap like the fur of a beaver, will preserve the cloth from being wet through, 
as the rain will not adhere, but trickle ofl' as soon as it falls, and moisture 
will not adhere at all. 

To apply it to the cloth, make up a weak solution of glue, and while it 
is hot, add a piece of alum, about an ounce to two quarts, and then brush 
it over the surface of the cloth while it is hot, and it is afterward dried. 
Cloth in pieces may be run through this solution, and then wrung out of 
it and dried. By adding a few pieces of soap to the glue the cloth will 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 23 

feel much softer. Goods in pieces may be run through a tubful of weak 
glue, soap, and alum, and squeezed between rollers. This would be a cheap 
and expeditious mode of preparing them. Woolen goods are prepared 
by brushing them with the above mixture, first on the inside, then with 
the grain or nap of the cloth, after which it is dried. It is best to dry 
this tirst in the air, and then in a stove room, at a low heat, but allow the 
cloth to remain for a considerable time, to expel the moisture completely. 
This kind of cloth, while it is sufficiently water-proof to keep out moistui'e 
and rain — being quite impervious to water — is pervious to the air. Many 
fishermen know that by boiling their pants, jackets, nets, and sails in a 
pot with oak bark and fish skins, and afterward drying them, they become 
waterproof. The composition mentioned above is of nearly the same 
nature as the fish-glue and oak bark, and, consequently, the same eftects 
are produced. The composition is stated to be improved by adding about 
one-fourth the quantity of the sulphate of copper to the alum. Cloth 
made waterproof in this manner will resist the effects of water even if it 
is somewhat warm, but it loses its waterproof properties if boiled. Per- 
sons who are exposed to the inclemency of the weather will find it to their 
advantage, as a means of preserving health, to prepare their clothes in tbe 
way we have described. Several corps in the French army are provided 
wath porous water-proof cloth tunics prepared in a similar manner. 
They have been found very beneficial when the troops are in active 
service. 

Another. — Take 2\ pounds of alum, and dissolve this in 10 gallons of 
boiling water; then, in a separate vessel, dissolve the same quantity of 
sugar of lead in 10 gallons of water, and mix the two solutions. The 
cloth is now well handled in this liquid until every part of it is penetrated; 
then it is squeezed and dried in the air, or in a warm apartment, then 
washed in cold water and dried again, when it is left for use. If neces- 
sary, the cloth may be dipped in the liquid and dried twice before being 
washed. The liquor appears curdled when the alum and lead solutions 
are mixed together. This is the result of double decomposition; the 
sulphate of lead, which is an insoluble salt, being formed. The sulpbate 
of lead is taken up in the pores of the cloth, and it is unaffected by rain 
or moisture; and yet it does not render the cloth air-tight. Such cloth 
is also partially'- non-inflammable. A solution of alum itself will render 
cloth, prepared as described, partially waterproof; l)ut it is not so good 
as the sulphate of lead. Such cloth — cotton or woolen — sheds rain like 
the feathers on the back of a duck. 

To Soften Hard Water. — Dissolve 1 pound of sal soda in 1 gallon of boil- 
ing water, and to this add f pound of fresh burned and slaked lime; 
agitate these together, and allow the water to rest for sediment to settle. 
The clear liquor is next poured off', and forms a caustic le}'. A little of 
this ley is now placed in a glass tumbler, and a few drops of hydrochlo- 
ric (muriatic) acid are added. If the liquor eff'ervesces, a little more acid 
must be added. The acid is a test, and when the ley ceases to eftervesce 
by adding a few drops of the acid, it is a sign that it is tit for use. This 
caustic ley will precipitate sulphates and carbonates in hard water, and 
render the latter soft and fit for feeding into boilers, or for washing pur- 
poses. A certain quantity of this ley is requisite to treat a certain quan- 
tity of hard water, and the way to determine this is as follows : Take a 
gallon of hard water to be softened ; add 1 ounce of the prepared ley to it, 
and allow the sediment to settle for ten minutes ; now add another ounce 
of the ley, and if no fiocculent material, or precipitate, appears, it is a 
sign that one ounce of the ley will purify one gallon of the hard water. 



24 THE IIOUSE-KEEPEU S (lUIDE. 

The ley must be added until all the earliiy impurities in the water are 
thrown down. From these data, a calculation can -be made for thousands 
of gallons. Thus, for a 10-horse power boiler, 600 gallons of water will 
be "required in 10 hours, and 3| gallons of this ley will be required to 
purify it. This should be done in a setting tank, and the puritied water 
run off into a supply cistern for feeding the boiler. The water must not 
be rendered caustic, or it will act on the metal. 

Fi'-as on Dogs. — 1 have found the following receipt most effectual in kill- 
ing Hoas on dogs, viz.: to rub them well over with whisky; it acts like 
magic, killing them insianter; if all are not polished off in one application, 
another will be necessary. 

To Brighieti Brass. — The pickle which is employed for brightening brass 
is made with equal parts of nitric and muriatic acids, diluted with four times 
tht'ir bulk of water. iSulphuric acid, diluted with three times its weight 
(»f water, and used hot, also makes a good brightening pickle for brass, 
which must be thoroughly washed in hot water afterward, and then dried 
in warm saw-dust. 

To Keep Metals fi^om Rusiing. — A most excellent oil to preserve the locks 
of guns and bright iron from rusting, maybe made as follows: Take 
some refined petroleum, and add about ten per cent, in measure, of castor 
oil, and stir together well, and it is ready for use. This is also a good 
lubricating oil for machinery. 

To Brown Gun-Barrels. — Take tincture of iodine, and dilute with J its 
bulk with water; apply it to the surface of the barrel with a clean rag; 
let it stand about six hours ; then brush the metal, rub it over with some 
beeswax dissolved in turpentine, and it is done. 

To Prevent Skippers in Ham. — Keep your smokehouse perfectly dark, 
and the moth which deposits the egg will never enter it. Smoke with, 
green hickory wood, and the flavor will be much better than by any 
other. 

To Prevent Frost. — Frost can only occur where the atmosphere is dry 
and clear. Have a pile of straw or any other refuse matter, on hand, 
near your garden or orchard, and when there is an}'^ sign of frost, wet it 
and set it on lire about sundown, and the smoke and wind which it will 
create will effectually keep away all frost, especially if the fires be built 
on several sides of the area to be protected. 

A SiibsiltiUe for Coffee. — Take a peck of rye and cover it with water, 
let it steep or boil until the grain swells, or commences to burst; then 
drain and dry it. Now roast to a deep-brown color, and prepare as other 
coftee, allowing twice the time for boiling. This alone makes a very 
good coffee ; but if mixed with equal parts of carrots or beets, sliced thin 
and dried in an oven till brown, it will make an article but little, if any, 
inferior to the genuine. 

To Exterrnmate Rats. — Take about one-half a tea-cupful of potash, and 
wrap it in cotton batten, and place it in the holes in your cellars, and 
stop them up. They will take the batten to build nests, and burn their 
feet with the potash, whereupon they will quit the premises instanter. 

Another. — Take equal parts of powdered nux vomica and oatmeal, and 
mix them thoroughly together, and put the mixture a short distance 
from the holes. 

Poison Balls for Rats and Roaches. — Put a drachm of phosphorus in a 
bottle along with two ounces of water: cork it, and plunge it into a ves- 
sel of boiling water till the phosphorus is dissolved; then pour it into a 
mortar along with 3 ounces of lard, and rub it briskly, adding some 
water, about half a pound of flour, and 2 ounces of sugar. The whole is 



THE HOUSE -keeper's GUIDE. 25 

made into a paste, and divided into balls about the size of marbles. This 
is laid down on the floor, or shelves, for rats, cockroaches, or other ver- 
min, who eat and are destroyed. For rats, cheese is better than sugar, 
and tallow better than lard. The cockroaches are fond of any thing 
sweet ; hence sugar is a bait for them. Potatoes will answer as well as 
the flour. These balls should be laid down at night, and carefully lifted 
in the morning, taking care not to let any be touched by a child. They 
should be locked up through the day. 

To Destroy Cockroaches and other Vermin. — An infallible means of de- 
stroying cockroaches, beetles, &c., is to strew the roots of black hellebore 
on the floor at night. Next morning the whole family of these insects 
will be found either dead or d3nng, for such is their avidity for the poison- 
ous plant, that they never fail to eat it, when they can get it. Black hel- 
lebore grows in marshy grounds, and may be had at all herb-shops. 

To Preserve Eggs.— Take 1 pint of good salt, 1 pint of slaked lime, and 
dissolve in 3 gallons of water. Put your eggs in this pickle, and keep 
them covered with it, and in a cool cellar. 

Another. — Put your eggs in a basket, sieve, colander, or in a piece of 
thin muslin, and dip them into boiling water, and let them remain till 
you can count twenty. This forms a thin skin inside the shell, which 
makes them impervious to the air. Now pack them with the little end 
down, and keep in a cool place. If packed in salt, after having been 
subjected to this treatment, they will keep good two years. 

How to Catch all the Fish you Want. — Take the juice of smallage or 
lovage, and mix it with any kind of bait. Bait your hooks and go to 
fishing, and you will catch all the fish you need. A few drops of oil of 
rhodium is also good. 

Another. — Take cocculus indicus, pulverize, and mix with dough; then 
scatter broadcast over the water. This will be seized with great avidity 
by the fish, which will so completel}' intoxicate them that they will turn 
belly up on the surface of the water by hundreds. Now have a boat ready, 
and pick up what you want, and put them in a tub of fresh water, and in 
a few minutes they will be all right again. 

How to Catch Wild Geese and other Wild Fowls Alive. — Soak wheat or 
other grain in strong alcohol or whisky, and strew it plentifully where 
they frequent, and it will intoxicate them so you can go up and catch 
them alive. Of course, they will have to be watched, so as to take them 
soon after eating. 

Sealing- Wax for Bottles, Fruit-Cans, ^c. — Melt together 6 ounces resin, 
2 ounces shellac, 4 ounces Venice turpentine, and color with lampblack. 

A Substitute for a Carpet. — Save all your old newspapers, and when 
you get enough for the purpose, make a paste, same as for putting on tho 
wall, and lay them down, one by one, till your floor is covered. Let it 
dry; then lay down another coating in the same way. When again dry, 
get some good wall paper, of suitable color, and paste all over it. When 
dry, go over it with a good coat of varnish, and you will have a nice 
covering for your floor, which will wear as long as a carpet, and look as 
well as oil-cloths. This is a cheap method of covering bedroom floors, 
and other rooms which are not much used. When required to be cleaned, 
wipe it ofi* with a wet cloth. 



CULINARY DEPARTMENT. 



General Remarks on Bread. — In order to secure good bread, it is the 
best economy to purchase the best flour, oven at a greater cost. Newly- 
ground flour, which has never been packed, is much superior to barrel- 
llour. Indian 7neal, also, is much the best when freshly ground. 

No one thing is of more importance in making bread than thoroughly 
kneading it. When bread is taken out of the oven hot, never set flat on 
a table, as it sweats the bottom, and acquires a bad taste from the wood. 
Take it out of the tins, wrap it in clean linen, and set it up on the end 
till cool. If it has a thick, hard crust, first wrap it with a wet cloth, 
tlien a dry one over it, and let it sweat till it becomes soft. 

Wheat Bread. — Take 2 quarts of wheat flour, half a cup of molasses, a 
tea-cupful of lively yeast, mixed up with v/arm water; let it stand in a 
warm place an hour and a half; if necessary, add a little saleratus ; bake 
an hour and a half. 

Salt-risinr/ Bread. — Take a little warm water, with a little salt in it, and 
mix with enough flour to make about aquart of batter (it will rise quicker 
with a handful of meal stirred in), and set in warm water, near the stove, 
where it will keep moderately warm. AVhen it rises and comes up, near 
the point of running over, mix your bread, place in tins, and set near the 
stove to rise. When it comes up light, put in a hot oven, and bake till 
well done. Some prefer molding it over after it comes, up, and then re- 
rising before baking. 

Brown Bread. — Put the Indian meal in your bread-pan; sprinkle a lit- 
tle salt among it, and wet it thoroughly with scalding water. When it 
is cool, put in your rye, add 2 gills of lively yeast, and mix it with water 
as stitt'as you can knead it. Let it stand an hour and a half, in a cool 
place in summer, on the hearth in winter. .It should be put into a very 
hot oven, and baked three or four hours. 

Rye and Indian Bread. — Take about 2 quarts of Indian meal, and scald 
it; then add as much rye meal, a tea-cupful of molasses, half a pint of 
lively yeast. If the yeast be sweet, no saleratus is necessary. If sour, 
put in a little; let it stand from one to two hours, till it rises; then bake 
it about three hours. 

Light Biscuit. — Ten pounds flour, a pint of buttermilk, half a tea-spoon- 
ful of saleratus; put into the buttermilk a small piece of butter, or lard, 
rubbed into the flour ; make it about the consistency of bread before baking. 

Bread Biscuit. — Three pounds flour, half a pint of Indian meal, a lit- 
tle butter, 2 spoonfuls of lively yeast; set it before the fire, to rise over 
night ; mix it with warm water. 

Rolls. — Warm an ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, then add a 
spoonful and a half of yeast, and a little salt. Put 2 pounds of flour in a 
pan, and mix in the above ingredients. Let it rise an hour, or over 
night, in a cool place; knead it well, and make into seven rolls, and 
bake them in quick oven. Add half a tea-spoonful of saleratus just as 
you put into the baker. 

Short Rolls. — Take about 5 pounds of flour, and a piece of butter half 
the size of an cg^^^ two spoonfuls of yeast, and mix it with warm milk; 
make it into a light dough, and let it stand by the fire all night; should it 
sour, put in a little saleratus. Bake in a quick oven. 

26 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S (Hi IDE. 



PUDDINGS. 



Bread Pudding. — Take thin slices of bread (that which is a little dry is 
best) and put them in layers in your pan; now take a sufficient quantity 
of milk, eggs, and sugar, which has previously been well beaten together, 
and turn on till the bread is all well covered, then put in a hot oven and 
bake till well done. By no means ever beat or stir your bread all up 
like mu.^h before it is baked, as it makes it heavy, and untit to be eaten; 
but pour your milk, eggs, etc., on, and then bake without disturbing it. 
Add butter and fruit if you like. 

Baked Rice Pudding.— T-Aka a large coffee-cup of rice, and gradually heat 
on the stove in thi-ee pints of milk, for an hour or more; now beat up 4 
eggs with another pint of milk, in which you have put sugar, seasoning, 
etc., and stir in and bake in a quick oven, three-quarters of an hour. 

Baked Indian Pudding. — First make your meal into a boiled mush, then 
add your milk, eggs, sugar, and seasoning, well beat together, and bake 
same as rice or bread pudding. 

Another — Always Good. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 5 large tea-spoon- 
fuls of Indian meal, nutmeg and sugar to your taste. Boil the milk, and 
scald the Indian meal in it; then let it cool before you add the eggs. 
Bake three-quarters of an hour. 

Cottage Pudding. — One pint-bowl flour, one teacup milk, one egg, half 
teacup sugar, one teaspoon soda dissolved in the milk, two teaspoons 
cream tartar rubbed in the Hour. Bake twenty minutes or half an hour. 
Sauce. 

Poor Man's Pudding. — Two quarts milk, one cup uncooked rice, half 
cup sugar, piece of butter size of walnut, 2 teaspoons salt. Spice to taste. 
Bake 3 hours, and stir several times during the first hours, 

Apple Sago Pudding. — One cup sago, in water enough to swell it, i. e., 
about 6 cups. Put it on the stove and swell it. In the meantime stew 
10 or 12 apples, mix with the swelled sago, and bake three-quarters of an 
hour. Eat with cream and sugar, or wine sauce. 

Wedding Cake Pudding. — Two-thirds of a cup of butter, 1 cup of mo- 
lasses, 2 cups of milk, 2 teaspoons of saleratus, 4 eggs, 2 pounds of raisins, 
stoned and chopped, 1 pound of currants, ^ of a pound of citron. Flour 
to make a batter as thick as pound-cake; salt and all sorts of spices. Boil 
or steam five hours. To be eaten with wine sauce. 

Salem Pudding.— Ona cup suet, chopped fine; one cup molasses, one cup 
milk, one teaspoon soda, three and a half cups flour, two teaspoons cream 
tartar, one cup raisins, one teaspoon cloves, a little salt. Steam three 
hours. Wine sauce. 

Carries Apple Pudding. — Half pint milk, one egg, and flour to make a 
pretty stifl' batter; a little salt. Fill your pudding-dish with sliced apples, 
pour your batter over then^, and steam three hours. Sauce. 

Green Corn Pudding. — Take half a dozen ears of green sweet corn, 
(good size,) and with a sharp pointed knife split each row of kernels, 
and scrape from the ear. Mix with this pulp 2 eggs, well beaten, 2 
tablespoons sugar, 1 of butter, 1 saltspoon of salt, ^ pint sweet cream, 
(milk may be substituted, with an extra spoonful of butter,) and one 
dozen crackers, grated or pounded very fine. Mix well together, and 
bake three hours, if in a pudding-dish — or two, in custard cups. Use the 
corn raw. 

Baked Plum-Pudding. — Two quarts milk, ten soft crackers, eight eggs, 
one pound stoned raisins. Spice to taste. Bake from three to four hours. 
Sauce. 



28 THE house-keeper's guide, 

Sunderland Pudding, No. 1. — One quart milk, four eggs, six tablespoons 
flour, a little salt. Bake in cups twent}' minutes. Sauce. 

Sunderland Pudding, No. 2.— One pint milk, one pint flour, three eggs, 
salt. 

Quaking Plum Pudding. — Take slices of light bread, spread thin with 
butter, and lay in a pudding-dish layers of this bread, and raisins, till 
■within an inch of tlie top. Add 5 eggs, well beaten, and a quart of 
milk, and pour over the pudding; salt and spice to taste. Bake it twenty 
or twenty-fivo minutes, and ea^ with liquid sauce. Before using the 
raisins, boil them in a little water, and put it all in. 

Mrs. Weston's Baked Indian Pudding. — Take 6 table-spoonfuls of meal, 
and stir molasses or sirup enough in it to have the meal all wet, and no 
more;_ that will sweeten enough: then take 1 quart of milk, and boil it; 
pour it boiling hot on the meal ; stir the meal while pouring the milk on 
to it, so as not to make it lumpy. Stir in 3 table-spoonfuls of wheat flour, 
wet with a little cold milk; salt and spice to the taste, and bake two 
hours; and it will be equal to any meal pudding with eggs and suet that 
can be made. 

Fig Pudding. — Half pound of tigs, | pound of flour, two eggs, J pound 
of suet, a little sugar, and a little wine, salt, and various spices. To be 
boiled in a tin shape for four hours. 

Mrs. Hamlin's Puddimg. — One pint sweet milk, 1 tea-spoonful soda, \ 
cup molasses, 2 cups Indian meal, 1 cup flour. Steam two hours. 

Birds-Nest Pudding. — Put into 3 pints of boiling milk 6 crackers, 
pounded tine, and 1 cup of raisins; when cool, add 4 eggs, well beaten, a 
little sugar, and four good-sized apples, pared and cored. To be baked 
and eaten with warm sauce. 

Carrot Pudding. — Half pound grated carrot, half pound grated potato, 
half pound suet chopped fine, half pound flour, spices of all sorts, salt, 
raisins, and citron to taste. Steam Ave hours. To be eaten with wine 
sauce. 

Coryi Starch Pudding. — Let those who are fond of good dessert puddings 
get the Oswego Corn Starch, and make according to the directions accom- 
panying each package. An excellent diet for the sick. 

Tapioca Pudding. — Six table-spoonfuls of tapioca, one quart of milk, 
three eggs, sugar and spice to your taste ; heat the milk and tapioca mod- 
erately ; bake it one hour. 

Mrs. Meachani s Boiled Indian Pudding. — Two cups Indian meal, two 
cups flour, one egg, half cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, two teaspoons 
cream tartar. Wet with milk till about as thick as cake. Steam three 
hours. Never lift the cover while it is cookino;, or it will not be light. 
Sauce. 

Mrs. H.'s Berry Pudding. — Coftee-cup sweet milk, one-third cup mo- 
Jasses, one eg^, a little salt, a little saleratus, three and a half teacups 
flour. Beat all with a spoon. Flour, three pints berries, and stir in with 
a knife. Steam three hours. Sauce. 

Madame P.'s Pudding Sauce. — Large coflTee-cup powdered sugar, quar- 
ter pound butter. Beat together very light; then add one egg, but do not 
beat much after the egg is in. Stir in one glass of wine. Take ofl' the 
tea-kettle cover, set the sauce in, and let it melt till as thick as cream, 
stirring it occasionally. 

Hasty Pudding. — Boil water, a quart, three pints, or two quarts, accord- 
ing to the size of your family; sift your meal, stir five or six spoonfuls 
of it thoroughly into a bowl of water; when the water in the kettle boils, 
pour into it the contents of the bowl; stir it well and let it boil up thick; 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 29 

put in salt to suit your own taste, then stand over the kettle, and sprinkle 
in meal, handful after handful, stirring it very thoroughly all the time, 
and letting it boil between whiles. "When it is so thick that you stir it with 
difficulty, it is about right. It takes about half an hour's cooking. Eat 
it with milk or molasses. Either Indian meal or rye meal may be used. 
If the system is in a restricted state, nothing can be better than rye hasty 
pudding and good molasses. This diet would save many a one the horrors 
of dyspepsia. 

A Good Saicce for Baked Pudding, %. — Take 1 pint of water, a large tea- 
cup of sugar, piece of butter size of a large egg, a little nutmeg and es- 
sence of lemon, and bring to a boil. Now take a little flour, or corn-starch, 
(which is best,) well beat into a paste, and thinned, and stir in gradually, 
till of the consistency of cream, or as thick as you like ; then add a large 
table-spoonful of vinegar or brandy. 

Sauce for Boiled Paddings. — Equal parts of butter and white sugar 
well beaten together, till it becomes light; then seasoned with nutmeg, and 
wine or brandy. 



PIES AND PASTEY. 

Commo?r Paste for Pies. — Take a quantity of flour proportioned to the 
number of pies you wish to make, then rub in some lard and salt, and 
stir it with cold water; then roll it out, and spread on some lard, and 
scatter over some dry flour; then double it together, and cut it to pieces, 
and roll it to the thickness you wish to use it. 

Good commo)i Pie Crust. — Allow one hand as full of flour as you can 
take it up for each pie; and for each three handfuls, allow two heaping 
spoonfuls of lard or butter; rub in a part, as directed, and roll in the rest. 

Cream Crust. — This is the most healthy pie crust that is made. Take 
cream, sour or sweet, add salt, and stir in flour to make it stiiF: if the 
cream is sour, add saleratus in proportion of one tea-spoonful to a pint; 
if sweet, use very little saleratus. Mold it as little as j^ou can. 

Rich Puff Paste. — Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much 
fine flour as you judge necessary, mix a little of the former with the lat- 
ter, and wet it with as little butter as will make it into a stifl" paste. 
Koll it out, and put all the butter over it in slices, turn in the ends, and 
roll it thin; do this twice, and touch it no more than can possible be 
avoided. 

Paste for a Good Dumpling. — Kub into a pound of flour six ounces of 
butter; then work it into a paste, with two well-beaten eggs and a little 
water. If you bake this paste, a large table-spoonful of loaf sugar may 
be added to it. 

Paste for Family Pies. — Rub into one pound and a half of flour half 
a pound of butter ; wet it with cold water suflBcient to make a stift" paste, 
work it well, and roll it out two or three times. 

Plain Mince Pies. — These may be made of almost any cheap pieces of 
meat, boiled till tender; add suet or salt pork chopped very fine; two- 
thirds as much apple as meat; sugar and spice to your taste. If mince 
pies are eaten cold, it is better to use salt pork than suet. A lemon and 
a little syrup of sweetmeats will greatly improve them. Clove is the 
most important spice. 

Apple Mi)i,ce Pies. — To twelve apples chopped fine, add six beaten eggs, 
and half a pint of cream. Put in spice, sugar, raisins or currants, just as 
you would for meat mince pies. They are very good. 



30 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Cherry Pies. — The common red cherry makes the best pie. A large 
deep dish is best. Use sugar in the proportion directed for bhick- 
berries. 

Whortleherry or IMacJiherry Pies. — Fill the dish not quite even full, 
and to each pie of the size of a soup plate, add four large spoonfuls of 
sugar, for blackberries and blueberries; dredge a very little flour over tho 
fruit before you lay on the upper crust. 

Apple Pie. — Peel the apples, slice them thin, pour a little molasses, and 
sprinkle some sugar over them; grate on some lemon peel or nutmeg. If 
you wish to make richer, put a little butter on the top. 

Cocoa-Nut Pie. — One good-sized cocoa-nut peeled and grated, 1 quart 
of milk sweetened like custard, a piece of butter the size of a walnut in 
each pie; four eggs to the quart. 

Mi?ice Pies. — Meat finely chopped, five pounds; good apples, Y pounds; 
sugar, 3 pounds; raisins, 3 pounds; currant jelly, 1 pound; butter, 4 
ounces; mace or cinnamon, 1 ounce. When this is prepared, make a crust 
of two-thirds the usual quantity of lard, and one-third of fat salt pork, 
very finely chopped ; all of which should be rubbed in flour and wet with 
cold water. Bake in a slow oven one hour. 

Pineapple Pic. — Pare and grate large pineapples, and to every teacup 
of grated pineapple, add half a tea-cupful of fine white sugar ; turn the 
pineapple and sugar into dishes lined with paste; put a strip of the paste 
around the dish; cover the pie with paste, wet and press together the 
edges of the paste; cut a slit in the center of the cover, through which the 
vapor may escape. Bake thirty minutes. 

Augusta's Lenio)i Pie. — Juice and grated rind of three lemons, 3 eggs, 
and three tablespoons sugar to a lemon. Bake in pufl' paste. 

Mrs. C.'s Pwnjikin Pie. — Stew a large-sized pumpkin in about 1 pint 
of water till dry, sift through a colander; add 2 quarts milk scalded, 6 
eggs, heaped tablespoon ginger, half as much cinnamon, 2 coflee-cupa 
molasses, 2 coflee-cups sugar, 2 teaspoons salt. Bake in a pretty hot oven, 
one hour at least. 

Jane PSs Leynon Cream Pie. — One cup sugar, 1 cup W'ater, 1 raw potato, 
grated, juice, grated rind of 1 lemon ; bake in pastry top and bottom. 
This will make one pie. 

Ded/iam Cream Pie. — Bake your paste not too rich, in a common pie 
plate /zrsz^. Boil 1 pint of milk ; when boiling, stir in half cup flour, one 
cup of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs; beat well together. Cook long 
enough not to have a raw taste; add juice and grated rind of one lemon, 
and a little salt; beat the whites of the 2 eggs, with a cup of sugar, to a 
stitf froth; spread over the pie when filled, and brown in the oven. 

German Pnffs. — One pint milk, five eggs, two ounces butter, ten spoon- 
fuls flour. Bake iu cups. Sauce. 

Rhubarb Pie. — Take the tender stalks of rhubarb, strip oflT the skin, and 
cut the stalks into very thin slices. Line deep the plates with pie crust, 
then put in the rhubarb in layers, each layer to be covered with a thick 
coating of sugar. Put on your crust, press it down tight around the edge 
of the plate, and prick the crust with a fork, so it will not burst in baking, 
and let out the juices of the pie. Bake in a slow oven. Never stew rhu- 
barb for pies before baking. 

Custard Pie. — For a large pie, put in three eggs, a heaping table-spoon- 
ful of sugar, one pint and a half of milk, a little salt, and some nutmeg 
grated on. For crust, use common pastry. 

Rice Pie. — Boil your rice soft ; put one egg to each pie, one table-spoon- 
ful of sugar, a little salt, and nutmeg. 



THE house-keeper's guide. 3J 

Lemon Tie. — Take one lemon and a half, cut them up jSne, one cup of 
molasses, half a cup of sugar, two eggs; mix them together; prepare your 
plate, with a crust in the bottom; put in half the materials, lay over a 
crust; then put in the rest of the materials, and cover the whole with 
another crust, 

CUSTAEDS. 

In making custards always avoid stale eggs. Never put eggs in very 
hot milk, as" it will poach them. Always boil custards in a vessel set in 
boiling water. 

Boiled Ciisiards. — Boil a quart of milk with a bit of cinnamon and half 
a lemon peel; sweeten it witli nice white sugar; strain it, and when a lit- 
tle cooled, mix in gradually seven well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful 
of rose-water; stir all together over a slow tire till it is of proper thick- 
ness, and then pour it into your glasses. This makes good boiled custards. 

Another Way. — Take six eggs, leave out the whites, mix your eggs and 
sugar together, with some rose-water; then boil a pint of rich milk, and 
put m the eggs; let it simmer a m.inute or two, and stir it, to prevent its 
curdling. 

Baked Custard. — Two quarts of milk, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of 
sugar, four spoonfuls of rose-water, one nutmeg. 

"Cream Custard. — Eight eggs, beat, and put into two quarts of cream ; 
sweeten to taste; add nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Custard to turn out. — Mix with the w-ell-beaten yolks of four eggs, a 
pint of new milk, half an ounce of dissolved isinglass; sweeten with loaf 
sugar, and stir over a slow fire till it thickens; pour it into a basin, and 
stir it till a little cooled ; then pour into cups, to turn out when quite cold. 
Add spice as you like, to the beaten eggs. 

CAKE. 

Comjyosition Cake. — Two and a quarter pounds of flour, one and three- 
quarter pounds of sugar, one and a half pounds of butter, three pounds 
of fruit, six eggs, one pint of milk, one ciip of molasses, two glasses of 
wine, two glasses of brandy, two teaspoons saleratus. Cloves, cinnamon, 
nutmeg, &c. 

Sjnce Cake. — One pound flour, one pound sugar, half pound butter, four 
eggs, teacup cream, teaspoon soda, teaspoon cloves, one nutmeg, tea- 
spoon cinnamon, one pound raisins, one glass wine or brandy. 

Cream Cake. — One teacup cream, two teacups sugar, three well-beaten 
eggs, teaspoon saleratus dissolved in wineglass of milk, piece butter, size 
half an egg, flour to make as thick as pound cake; add raisins, and spice 
to taste; wine and brandy, if you like. 

Gingerbread. — One pound flour, half pound sugar, the yolks of three 
eggs, half pound of butter; ginger to taste. 

Laura Keene's Jelly Cake. — One teacup of sugar, one teacup of milk, 
one teaspoon of cream of tartar, one pint of flour, two teaspoons of soda, 
one egg, one tablespoon of melted butter; salt, spice, and bake in thin 
sheets; when baked, spread jelly of any sort between the sheets. This 
receipt makes one cake, in three small divisions. 

A Philadelphia Sponge Cake. — Take ten eggs, one pound sugar, half 
pound flour, and lemon juice, or extract, to flavor. Beat the whites to a 
stiti' froth, warm and sift the flour; stir the yolks and sugar together, till 
light, and add the whites and flour, half at a time, alternately. Stir the 
whole gently, till bubbles rise to the surface. Bake in a modern oveu. 



32 THE house-keeper's guide. 

Cider Cake. — Two pounds flour, half pound butter, one pound sugar, 
teaspoon saleratus, dissolved in one pint of cider; fruit and spice to taste. 

A71 Excellent Plabi Tea Cake. — 1 cup of white sugar, half a cup of but- 
ter, 1 cup of sweet milk, 1 egg, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, 1 of cream 
tartar, and flour enough to make it like soft gingerbread. Flavor with 
the juice of a small lemon. This makes one good-sized loaf. 

Another Fruit Cake. — l^- pounds of sugar, \\ pounds of flour, | pounds 
of butter, 6 eggs, 1 pint of saleratus, 1 glass of wine, 1 of brandy, and as 
much fruit and spice as you can aflord, and no more. 

DougJinuis. — 2 cups sugar, 2 cups milk, 1 teaspoon saleratus, 3 eggs, 
and a piece of butter half as large as a small hen's egg. 

Crullers. — 6 tablespoons melted butter, 6 tablespoons sugar, 6 eggs, 
and flour to roll. 

Gingerbread Loaf. — 1 pound of flour, 1 pound of treacle, \ pound of 
butter, 1 egg, 1 ounce of ginger, some candied peel, and a few caraway- 
seeds, ground., a tea-spoonful of soda. To be baked in a slow oven. The 
flour to be mixed in gradually; the butter and treacle to be milk- warm; 
the soda to be put in last. Let it stand half an hour, to rise. 

Corn-Starch CaJce. — I pound sugar, 4 ounces butter, 5 eggs, 1 tea-spoon- 
ful cream tartar, | a tea-spoonful of soda, ^ pound of corn-starch, ^ a gill 
of sweet milk. 

Short Cake. — 3 pounds flour, i pound of butter, ^ pound lard. 1 tea- 
spoonful of soda, 2 of cream tartar; mix with cold milk. 

For Strawberry Cake, open these when flrst baked ; take out some of the 
crumb, and till the inside with ripe strawberries, sugared; close, and bake 
the cakes Ave minutes longer. 

Railroad Cake. — A pint of flour, 3 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of cream of tar- 
tar, half a tea-spoonful of soda, a table-spoonful of butter, a tea-spoonful 
of sugar; l)ake the butter in a square pan twenty minutes. 

Mrs. Gauberis Coffee Cake. — 1 cup cottee, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup sugar, 
half cup butter, 1 teaspoon saleratus, 1 egg; spice and raisins to suitthe 
taste. 

Soda Cake. — 4 eggs, 1 pint of sugar, 1 teacup of butter, 1 cup of sweet 
milk, 1 quart of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 of cream tartar. 

White Cake. — 3 cups of sifted flour, IJ cups of sugar, 1 cup of sweet 
milk, 1 egg, 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 1 
tea-spoonful of essence of lemon. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; 
then add the milk (in which the soda should be dissolved), the egg, well 
beaten, and the essence. Mix with the above 2 cups of the flour; and 
lastly, add the third cup, in which the cream of tartar has been stirred ; 
then bake in pans, or basins, in a quick oven. 

Mountain Cake. — 1 cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half cup of butter, half cup of 
milk or water, 2 of flour, tea-spoonful of cream tartar, lialf tea-spoon ful 
of soda, nutmeg, 

J'uynbles. — 1 pound of butter, 1 of sugar, 2 of flour, 3 eggs, half cup of 
sour milk, 1 tea-spoonful of soda; roll in white coft'ee sugar. This will 
make a large batch. If a small quantity be wanted, take proportionately 
less of material. 

Ginger Snaps. — 1 cup of butter, 1 of sugar, 1 of molasses, half cup of 
ginger, tea-spoonful of soda; mix stiti'. 

A Small Sponge Cake. — One cup of sugar, half cup of milk, one Qgg^ two 
tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, one of soda; butter, size of an egg. 

Whigs. — Mix half a pound of sugar with six ounces of butter, two eggs, 
tea-spoonful cinnamon. Stir in two pounds flour, a teacup of yeast, milk 
enough to make a stifl' batter; when light, bake in cups. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 33 

Poor Man's Cake.— One cup sugar, half cup butter, one cup sour cream, 
onrep-g flour enough to make a good batter, half tea-spoonful saleratus 
""""FruUCake.-n pounds sugar, U^ pounds flour, | of a pound but er 6 
e^<rs a pint sweet milk, 1 tea-spoonful saleratus, 1 glass wine, 1 of brandy, 
and as much fruit and spice as you can aflbrd, and no moi-e 

Cup Cake.— 5 cups flour, 3 cups nice sugar, 1 cup of butter, 4 eggs, 1 
CUP of good buttermilk, with saleratus enough to sweeten it; 1 nutmeg. 

Coo iel-l cup of butter, 2 cups sugar, 1 cup of cold water, ^^ tea-spoon- 
ful of saleratus, 2 eggs; flour enough to roll, and no more. 

Soft Gingerbread:'-! cup -of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 1 
cup of buttermilk, 1 egg, saleratus and cloves. Mix pretty stili. 

DeLate Cake.-^etvly 3 cups flour, 2 cups sugar, | of a cup of sweet 
mine, whites of 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of cream tartar, ^ tea-spoonful of 
soda' h cup of butter, lemon for flavoring. 

Criam Cake.-l cip of cream, 1 cup of sugar, 2 cups flour, 2 eggs, tea- 
SDOonful of saleratus; flavor with lemon. 

^SuXG^lngerbread.-! pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
hait a pound of butter, 5 eggs ; roll very thin on flat tins; do not grease 
the tins, but slip oft' the cake, when baked with a knife. 

Waffles -I pound of flour, half pound butter, 4 eggs, 1 quart of milk, 
1 tealpoonful^of yeast; boil the milk ; stir in the butter; beat up warm, 

^''oirColor^' Cake.-Thvee eggs, one scant cup of butter two -^^^ « half 
CUPS of suo-ar, one cup of sour milk, three and two-thirds cups of floui, 
ev?n ?ea-spookul of sida; spice to taste ; sift a little powdered sugar over 

^^Mr?iror/t'.s Sponge Cake.-One coff-ee-cup flour, one cofi-ee-cup sugar, four 

^%mgVcX!^One pound powdered sugar, one VO^^f/^^\fjSS% 
beaten separatelv, grated rind of one lemon, and part of the juice; one 
tea spoonful cre.m tartar, rubbed with the flour, half tea-spoonful soda, 
dissolved in half tea-cupful cold water. 

Every-day Frrdt Cake.-One cup butter, two cups sugar two cups sour 
milk, two cups raisins, five cups flour, tea-spoonful saleratus. bait, un- 
Tifimon cloves, citron, and wine to taste. -, , ,, • i . 

S^ce' Si-Three-quarters pound rice flour, half pound butter, eight 
fresh eggs, one pound sugar, half glass brandy. 

MrsTUbnes' Liberiy Cake.-One cup butter, two cups sugar one cup 
milk, one pint and a half flour, three eggs, salt and spices, three tea- 
<;noons Babbit's veast powders. , - 

""^ Pound Cake.-One pound of flour, one pound of ^"g'-^-;One pound of 
butter eio-ht eggs, three spoonfuls rose-water, mace or other spice. 

Mmsf/rf krf-Four tiacups of flour, two teacups of sugar, one and 
a halt teacups of butter, one glass of brandy, iour eggs, and one 

''Ton%ingerbread.-T^xo teacups of molasses, one teacup of milk, two 
eo-gs, one teaspoon saleratus, and flour to make it thick. 

Famiie's CaL— Half a pound of butter, three quarters of a pound ot 
su,^; one pound of flour,^four eggs, one cup of milk, one teaspoon of 
P^oda. Cloves, cinnamon, mace, to taste, with or without fruit, as you 
choose. Bake in a slow oven. 
3 



Oi THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 

BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

Mrs. MoiiUon's New England Brown Bread. — To four cups of Indian 
meal, and two of rye meal, add one quart of milk, (skimmed will do, 
if perfectl}^ sweet,) one cup of molasses, one table-spoonful of saleratus, 
and one dessert-spoonful of salt. Stir with a spoon, and bake without 
rising. 

Crackers. — One pint of water, one teacup of butter, one teaspoonful 
of soda, two of cream tartar, flour enough to make as stiflE' as biscuit. 
Let thcni stand in the oven until dried through. They do not need 
pounding. 

Pop Overs. — Four cups of flour, four eggs, four cups of milk, piece 
of butter size of two nutmegs, half teaspoon of salt, melt the butter. 

Bread Cakes. — Soak some crusts of bread in milk, strain them through 
the colender very tine, beat in four eggs, and a little flour, just sufiicient 
to thicken tbe substance; add one tea-spoonful of saleratus. Mix all to 
make a thin battel', and bake on the griddle. 

Artifcial Oysters. — Grate as many ears of green corn as will make one 
pint of pulp; add one tea-cupful of flour, half teacup butter, one egg, and 
pepper and salt to suit your taste. Dropped and fried in butter. 

Rye and. Indian JoJuiny Cakes. — Two cups of rye, two cups of Indian 
meal, a small tea-spoonful of saleratus, a little salt, sufficient sour milk to 
make a stifll" batter. Bake in cakes on a griddle; split open and butter 
them; send to table hot. 

Fan Doddlings. — Three teacups of fine rye meal, three teacups of Indian 
meal, one egg, three table-spoonfuls of molasses; add a little salt and all- 
spice; sufficient sweet milk to form a batter stiff enough to drop from a 
spoon. Fry them in hot lard until a nice brown. 

Plain Corn Bread., hut very Good. — One pint of sour milk, two eggs, 
one tea-spoonful of saleratus, a little salt; make soft enough to pour out. 

Cor7i Bread. — One quart of sour milk, 2 table-spoonfuls of saleratus. 4 
ounces of butter, three eggs, three table-spoonfuls of flour, and corn meal 
sufiicient to make a stitt" batter. 

Fruit Fritters. — Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs, of whatever 
richness you desire; stir into it either raspberries, currants, or any other 
fruit. Fry in hot lard, the same as pancakes. 

Mrs. Roberts'' Boston Broivn Bread. — One heaping quart of rye flour, 1 
do. of Graham flour, scanty quart of milk, same quantity of warm water, 
coflee-cup of molasses, one penny's worth of baker's yeast, or one coftee- 
cup of home-made yeast, teaspoon saleratus, dessert-spoon of salt. Grease 
an iron kettle, put in the mixture, and place immediately in a slow oven. 
Bake six or seven hours. 

Ground Rice Griddle Cakes. — Boil a quart of milk ; rub smooth a tea- 
cupful of ground rice, in a gill or two of cold milk, and stir it into the 
boiling milk; add a little salt, and while it is scalding hot, stir in flour 
enough to make the right thickness for baking. When cool, add a teacup 
of yeast, and four eggs. Let it rise light. 

Rice Griddle Cakes. — Put a tea-cupful of rice into two tea-cupfuls of 
water, and boil it till the water is nearly absorbed, and then add a pint 
and a half of milk. Boil it slowly, until the rice is very soft. 

Muffins. — Melt half a teacup of butter in a pint and a half of milk; 
add a little salt ; a gill of yeast, and four eggs ; stir in flour enough to make 
a batter rather stitfer than for griddle cakes. If kept in a moderately 
warm place, it will rise sufficiently in eight or nine hours. 

Rye Cake. — Four and a half cups rye meal, three eggs, one and a half 



THE HOCSE-KEEPEB'S GUIDE. 35 



teaspoons cream tartar, one U^njoon soda Mix with milk, till about as 
*'''li:^"S--T;:tps''oVlnairral, three cups of wheat flour, 
on ;tt of UttermiTk, f.m^r tahle-spoons of molasses, two tea-spoons of 
one piu oi „„,on hot, with butter, for tea or breakfast. 

' nnri bwItw "cup of Indian meal, two cups of rye one of flour 

Ctbe'i^iirand'kelpil boiling thrL hours, and you will have a loaf of 
bread ^itl;o"V"^B°"'?;„,; Put half a pound of rice in soak over night. 

*"VrM«At Sirr]^'' f-Take a piece of bread dough large enough to fill 
a ,trt twt ol'^eacup of '->Vt,r hi it LSh^r ''rX^r hick- 
saleratus; knead qu te hard, r^ll out th,n, l.vp ^ t"f ^'^^^'/^ 'jj ^„ „,i,e in a 
ness of a thin h;se«,t cut ou « ^ a b.su mo . an ^^ ,„ffieient. 

™??t W *"t\Jo ^^s^'lndL LSl, one'eSptur, two eggs, large tea- 

&T:ni ij^ts^^c^^sixz::i^^^<;^^^^^^ -" --, 

saleratus, one egg, oaraw^^seed to ™Jt yo„ taste^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^_^^^^^^^ ^^ 
Jr: make it .tiV with flour: "^J^'^^-J;-; ^ug^alf cup butter, 
five eggs, and the same ingredients, make Gold Cake. 



■w 



36 THE house-keeper's guide. 



MEATS. 



Roast Beef. — The tender-loin, and first and second cuts off the rack, are 
the best roasting pieces — the third and fourth cuts are good. When the 
meat is put in the oven, a little salt should be sprinkled on it, and the 
bony side turned toward the heat first. When the bones get well heated 
through, turn the meat, and keep a brisk fire ; baste it frequently while 
roasting. There should be a little water put into the dripping pan when 
the meat is put down to roast. If it is a thick piece, allow fifteen 
minutes to ench pound to roast it in — if thin, less time will be required. 

Boast Veal. — Veal shoukl be roasted brown, and if a filter or loin, be 
sure and paper the fsit, that as little of it may be lost as possible. When 
nearl}'- done, baste it with butter and dredge it with flour. 

Boast Pork. — Pork should be well done, and requires to be baked a 
long time. Before roasting, score the skin across with a sharp knife, or 
it will be difficult to carve. A spare-rib should be basted with a little 
])utter and flour, and sweet herbs, or sage and onions, as best suits the 
taste. 

Boast Turkey. — Let the turkey be picked clean, and washed and wiped 
dry, inside and out. Have your stuffing prepared, fill the skin of the crop, 
and also the inside; sew it up, put it in the oven, and roast moderately for 
three hours. Put a little water in the pan, and baste the outside with a 
little flour. 

Chickens. — Prepare them as above, and bake in a quick oven for one 
hour, more or less, according to size and age. 

To Boast Geese and Ducks. — Boiling water should be poured all over 
and inside of a goose or duck, before you prepare them for cooking, to 
take out the strong oily taste. Let the fowl be picked clean, and wiped 
dry with a cloth, inside and out; fill the body and crop with stuffing; if 
you prefer not to stuft' it, put an onion inside, and roast it brown. It will 
take about two hours and a half 

Wild Fowls. — These fowls always require a brisk fire, and should be 
roasted till they are a light brown, but not too much, otherwise they lose 
their flavor by letting the gravy run out. 

Stuffing. — Take dr}^ pieces of bread or crackers, chop them fine, put in 
a small piece of butter, or a little cream, with sage, pepper, and salt, one 
egg, and a small quantity of flour, moistened with milk. 

Baked Tongue. — Season with common salt and saltpeter, brown sugar, 
pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine powder, for a fortnight; tlien 
take away the pickle, put the tongue into a small pan, lay some butter 
on it, cover it with brown crust, and bake slowl}'', till so tender that a 
straw would go through it. To be eaten when cold. It will keep a week. 
To Boil a Calfs Head and Pluck. — Clean the head very nicely, and soak 
it in water till it looks very white. The tongue and heart need longer 
cooking than the rest. Boil these an hour and a half, the head an hour 
and a quarter, and the liver an hour ; tie the brains in a bag, and boil 
them one hour. Take up all at the same time; serve up the brains with 
pounded cracker, butter, pepper, vinegar, and salt. To be eaten with 
butter gravy. 

To Boil a Turkey. — Stuff a young turkey, weighing six or seven pounds, 
with bread, butter, salt, pepper, and minced parsley; skewer up the legs 
and wings as if to roast; flour a cloth, and pin around it. Boil it forty 
minutes, then set off the kettle and let it stand, close covered, half an 
hour more. The steam will cook it sufficiently. To be eaten with drawn 
butter and stewed oysters. 



THE house-keeper's auiDE. 37 

Beefsteak. — The tender loin is the best piece for hroiling. A steuk 
from the round or shoukler clod is good, and comes cheaper. If the beef 
is not very tender, it should be laid on a board and pounded, before broil- 
ing or frying it. Lay it on a gridiron, place it on a hot bed of coals, 
and broil it as quickly as possible, without burning it. If broiled slow, it 
will not be good. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes to broil a steak. 
For seven or eight pounds of beef, cut up about a quarter of a pound of 
butter. Heat the platter very hot that the steak is to be put on, la}^ the 
butter on it, take up the steak, salt and pepper it on both sides. Beef- 
steak, to be good, should be eaten as soon as cooked. 

Beef Satisaffcs. — To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound and 
a half of suet, and chop very finely; season with sage in powder, allspice, 
pepper and salt; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into 
them. 

Mrs. Pegg's Potted Veal. — Three and a half pounds raw leg of veal 
chopped, one heaping tablespoon salt, one do. black pepper, eight do. 
pounded butter cracker, three do. cream or milk, piece butter size of an 
egg. two eggs, one nutmeg; inold into a loaf, and put in a pan with a little 
water, and sprinkle over it bits of butter, and some more pounded cracker: 
bake two hours, and eat cold. 

A Nice Way to Cook Chickens. — The following is highly recommended: 
" Cut the chicken up, put it in a pan, and cover it over with water; let 
it stew as usual, and when done, make a thickening of cream and flour, 
adding a piece of butter, and pepper and salt; have made and baked a 
couple of short cakes, made as for pie-crust, but rolled thin, and cut in 
small squares. This is much better than chicken pie, and more simple to 
make. The crust should be laid on a dish, and the chicken gravy put 
over it while both are hot. 

Pork Sausages, fine. — Have two- thirds lean and one-third fat pork; chop 
very fine. Season with nine tea-spoonfuls of pepper, nine of salt, three 
of powdered sage, to every pound of meat. Warm the meat, that you 
can mix it well with your hands; do up a part in small patties, with a 
little flour mixed with them, and the rest pack in jars. AVhen used, do it 
up in small cakes, and flour the outside, and fry in butter, or alone. They 
should not be covered, or they will fall to pieces. A little cinnamon to a 
part of them will be a pleasant addition. They should be kept where it 
is cool, but not damp. They are very nice for breakfast. 

Meat Pie. — Cut your meat"^(be it beef, veal, or mutton) into small pieces, 
and stew till it is very tender; season with salt and pepper, and, if lean, 
also a little butter, aiid thicken with flour, so as to make a tolerably thick 
gravy. Now place between two crusts, in a deep dish, and bake till the 
crust is well done. Cold roast and boiled meats may be disposed of in this 
way to very good advantage. Chicken pie is made in the same way. 

Chicken Corn Pie. — A lady contributor sends us the following: First, 
prepare two chickens as for frying; then put them down, and let them 
stew in a great deal of good, rich, highl3^-seasoned gravy, until they are 
just done; then have ready picked two dozen ears of corn ; take a very 
sharp knife and shave them down once or twice, and then scrape the 
heart out, with the rest already shaved down; then get a baking-pan (a 
deep one); place a layer of corn on the bottom of the pan, or dish, then 
a layer of the chicken, and so on, until you get all the chicken in ; then 
cover with the corn, and pour in all the gravy, and put a small lump of 
butter on the top, and set it to baking, in a not very hot oven. It does 
not take long to cook: as soon as the corn is cooked, it will be ready to 
send to the table. It can either be sent in the pan it is baked in, or 



.^8 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

turned out into another dish. There must be a great deal of gravy, or it 
■will cook too dry. 

A New Receipt for Welch Rabbit — Cut your cheese into small slips, if 
soft; if hard, grate it down. Have ready a spirit of wine lamp, &c., and 
deep block tin dish; put m the cheese, with a lump of butter, and set it 
over the lamp. Have ready the yolk of an egg whipped, with half a glass 
of Madeira, and as much ale or beer. Stir your cheese, when melted, 
till it is thoroughly mixed with the butter; then add, gradually, the egg 
and wine; keep stirring till it forms a smooth mass. Season with cayenne 
and grated nutmeg. To be eaten with a thin, hot toast. 

Tu Cook a Ham. — An excellent manner of cooking a ham is the follow- 
ing: Boil it thi-ee or four hours, according to size; then skin the whole, 
and fit it for the table ; then set in the oven for half an houi-, cover it 
thickly with pounded rusk, or bread-crumbs, and set back for half an 
hour longer. Boiled ham is always improved by setting it in an oven 
for nearly an hour, until much of the fat dries out, and it also makes it 
more tender. 

To have Good Corned Beef. — Select a good, nice piece of fresh beef (a 
briscott or Hank piece is best), and put it in a pot of boiling water, and 
throw in a handful of salt, or enough to make it sulliciently salt to taste, 
and boil till tender. This will bo far superior to any beef pickled ia 
brine. 

Mock Terrapin — A Supper Dish. — Half a calfs liver; season and fry 
brown. Hash it, nofvery fine ; dust thickly with flour ; a teaspoon mixed 
mustard; as much cayenne pepper as will lie on a half-dime: two hard 
eggs, chopped line; a lump of butter as large as an egg; a teacup of 
water. Let it boil together a minute or two. Cold veal will do, if liver 
is not liked. 

Mutton Haricot. — Take a loin of mutton, cut it into small chops, season 
it with ground pepper, allspice, and salt; let it stand a night, and then fry 
it. Have good gravy, well seasoned with flour, butter, catsup, and pep- 
per, if necessary. Boil turnips and carrots, cut them small, and add to 
the mutton, stewed in the gravy, with the 3'olks of hard-boiled eggs and 
forcemeat balls. Some green pickles will be an improvement. 

Chicken Jelly. — For chicken jelly, take a large chicken, cut it up into 
very small pieces; bi'uise the bones, and put the whole into a stone jar, 
with a cover that will make it water-tight. Set the jar in a large kettle 
of boiling water, and keep it boiling for three hours. Then strain ott" the 
liquid, and season it slightly with salt, pepper, and mace; or with loaf- 
sugar and lemon juice, according to the taste of the person for whom it 
is intended. KeLurn the fragments of the chicken to the jar, and set it 
again in a kettle of boiling water. You will find that you can collect 
nearly as much jelly by the second boiling. This jelly may be made of 
an old fowl. 

FISH, OYSTEKS, ETC. 

To BoilFisJi. — Fill the fish with a stuffing of chopped salt pork and bread, 
or bread and butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sew it up; then 
sew it into a cloth, or you can not take it up well. Put it in cold water, 
with water enough to cover it, salted at the rate of a tea-spoonful of salt 
to each pound offish; add about three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil 
it slowly for twenty or thirty minutes, or till the fin is easily drawn out. 
Serve with drawn butter and eggs, with capers or nasturtion in it. 

Fish can be baked in the same way, except sewing it up in a doth. 



THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 39 

To Broil Fish. — Lot it have been caught one day ; lay the inside on 
the gridiron, and not turn it till it is nearly done. 

Fried Eels. — Parboil them a few minutes, then have your fat ready 
and fry them. An improvement is to dip them into an eg^,^ and crumbs 
of bread. 

To Make a Chowder. — Lay some slices of good fat pork in the bottom 
of your pot, cut a fresh cod into thin slices, and lay them top of the pork ; 
then a layer of biscuit, and alternately the other materials, till you have 
used them all ; then put in a quart of water. Let it simmer till the fish is 
dune. Previously to its being thoroughly done, add pepper, salt, and 
such seasoning as you like, and a thickening of flour, witli a cotfee-cup of 
good cream, or rich milk. 

Clam Chowder is made in the same way, only the heads and hard 
leathery parts must be cut off. 

Oyater Soup. — Bring your water to a boil, and put in yoxxv oysters, and 
let them boil up for a minute or so; season with butter, pepper, and salt. 
You can use all water, all milk, or a part of both, for the soup. 

To Steiv Oysters. — Put the liquor in a sauce-pan, and when it all boils 
up, add the oysters, and pour in a little milk ; or, if you choose, water, 
about a teacup to a quart of oysters. Let them boil up a minute, not 
more ; meantime, put in a small piece of butter, and dredge in some flour; 
set the saucepan ofl', and stir the oysters till the butter is melted. Lay 
some crackers or toasted bread in the dish, and pour on the 03^ster3. They 
are very fine with roast or boiled turkey. 

To Fry Oysters. — Make a batter of two eggs, three gills of milk, two 
spoonfuls of flour, and some fine bread-crumbs; beat it well; dip each 
oyster into the batter, and fry in lard. 

Oyster Sauce. — When your oysters are opened, take care of all the 
liquor, and give them one boil in it. Then take the oysters out, and put 
to the liquor three or four blades of mace ; add to it some melted butter, 
and some good cream ; put in oysters, and give them a boil. 

Oyster Toast — Bruise one anchovy fine in a mortar ; take twenty oys- 
ters, cut ofi" their beards, and chop them small. Mix the anchovy and 
chopped oysters in a saucepan, with as much cream as will make them 
of a good consistency ; add a little ca3-enne pepper; spread them, when 
quite hot, on a round of hot, well-buttered toast, cut as for anchovy toast. 

Grat'm of Lobster. — Take out all the meat from a large lobster ; then 
w^ash the body, tail, and shells, if the lobster is first cut in halves down 
the back; then dry and butter them, and sprinkle them with bread- 
crumbs; chop up the meat fine, with a little parsley and chalot, a few 
drops of essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne pepper, and 
salt; a little bechamel sauce, and boil all well together: then add the 
yolk of an egg; put it to cool; then fill your shells, or paper-cases; cover 
it with bread-crumbs and some pieces of butter; brown them in the oven, 
and dish on a napkin. 

PPvESEEVES, JELLIES, JAMS, AND PICKLES. 

Remarks. — Brass, iron, and copper kettles should never be used for 
making preserves. Iron-ware, lined with porcelain or tin, is far prefer- 
able, and not subject to the verdigris which acids produce on the others. 
If obliged to use a brass or copper kettle, scour it perfectly clean, and 
don't let your preserves stand in it one minute after they are done, It 
is bad economy to use too little sugar in the preservation of fruit. When 
it once begins to spoil, it can never be reinstated. Jellies, without suf- 



40 THE house-keeper's guide. 

ficient sugar, will not congeal. Preserves, to look clear and handsome, 
should he made with loaf sugar. Small jars are preferable to large ones 
in putting away preserves, as frequent exposure to the air is not good. 
After pouring the preserves into jars, cut several round pieces of paper, 
made to tit the mouth of the jar, and after laying one or two of them 
over the fruit, pour upon it a tea-spoonful of good brandy; then cover 
the jar closely with some paper, or bladder-skin, and tie it down in a man- 
ner which will entirely exclude the air. If the preserves candy, after 
being kepit a short time, the jar should be placed in a kettle of water, 
and permitted to boil from half to three-quarters of an hour. 

To Preserve Citron. — Pare and cut open the citron ; clean out all, except 
the rind ; boil it till soft. To a pound of citron, add a pound of sugar, 
and a lemon to each pound; put the sugar and lemon together, and boil 
it till it becomes a sirup, skimming it well ; then put the sirup and citron 
together, and boil it an hour. 

Another. — Cut oh" the hard rind of the melon (which should be pre- 
serving citron, not the green cantalope), and cut it in pieces of any size 
and shape you choose; the slices should be from a quarter to half an 
inch thick. Weigh your fruit, and to every pound add one of sugar. Put 
the sugar in a preserving kettle, with a gill of water to each pound of 
sugar, and some isinglass dissolved in warm water; it will require a quar- 
ter of an ounce of isinglass to every live pounds of fruit. When the sugar 
is dissolved, put it over the tire, and boil and skim it. Then pour the 
sirup out of the kettle, wash it, and return the sirup to it. Now put in 
the fruit, and set it over a brisk fire, where it will boil rapidly. When 
the fruit appears translucent when held up toward the light, it is done. 
It will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half to cook it. 
Then take it out, a piece at a time, spread it on dishes, and strain the 
sirup in a pan. When the sirup is lukewarm, put your fruit in the jars, 
and pour it over. Let them stand till next day ; put brandy paper over 
it, and paste them. This fruit may be flavored with lemons, sliced, and 
preserved with it. Do not peel the lemons; cut them in thin slices, and 
cook them with tlie fruit. To three pounds of fruit add one lemon. As 
the citron makes a beautiful but tasteless preserve, it is necessary to flavor 
it with lemon, orange, or some other fruit. If, when it is a little cool, it 
should not taste suthciently of the lemon, a few drops of the essence of 
lemon may be added. 

G ood Receipt for Cttron Preserves. — Prepare the rind, cut into any form 
you desire ; boil very hard for thirty or forty minutes in alum water, 
tolerably strong; take them from the alum water, and put into clear cold 
water; allow them to stand over night; in the morning, change the water, 
and put them to boil; let them cook until they have entirely changed 
color, and are quite soft; then make your sirup, alloMung one and a-half 
pounds of white sugar to one pound of fruit; then add your fruit, which 
needs but little more cooking. Mace, ginger, or lemon flavors nicely. 
This receipt is the best we ever saw. 

To Preserve Watennelon Rinds. — Cut the melon rinds into strips, boil 
them in weak pearlash water fifteen minutes; then drain out the liquor. 
Add a pound of loaf sugar to a pound of rind, and boil the whole about 
two minutes. The sirup will requii-e to bo scalded several times. 

Cherries. — To a pound of cherries allow three-quarters of a pound of 
fine loaf sugar; carefully stone them, and as they are done, throw parr 
of the sugar over them; boil them fast with the remainder of the sugar, 
till the fruit is clear, and the sirup thick. Take oti' the scum as it rises. 

Black Currants. — Gather the currants upon a dry day; to every pound 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 41 

allow half a pint of red currant juice, and a pound and a half of finely 
pounded loaf sugar. With scissors, clip off the heads and stalks: put the 
juice, currants, and sugar in a pre?erving-pan : shake it frequently, till it 
boils: carefully remove the fruit from the sides of the pan, and take oflf 
the scum as it rises : let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes. This preserva 
is excellent, eaten with cream. 

Preserved Apjiles. — Weigh equal quantities of good brown sugar and of 
apples : peel, core, and slice them thin. Boil the sugar, allowing to every 
^hree pounds a pint of water: skim it well, and boil it pretty thick: then 
add the apples, the grated peel of one or two lemons, and two or throe 
pieces of white ginger, if you have it: boil till the apples fall, and look 
clear and yellow. This pre.-erve will keep for years. 

Peach Preserves. — Three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of 
peaches ; put your sugar in the kettle, and put on water enough to make 
a thick sirup; boil and skim it; then put in your fruit, and cook till done. 
"Wliite sugar is best, but brown will do. 

(Quince Preserves. — Pare your fruit and cut into the proper size, and boil 
in a very little water till they become sufficiently soft to run a brown- 
straw througli. Now put your sugar in the same water in which your 
fruit was boiled, bring it to a boil, and skim ; then add your fruit, and 
cook till done, using the same proportion of sugar as in the peach pre- 
serves. 

Blackberry and Raspberri/ Preserves. — To every pound of fruit, use 
three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Make a sirup of your sugar, boil and 
skim; then add your fruit, and cook till done. 

To Preserve Plums. — Make a sirup of clean, brown sugar; clarify it; 
when perfectly clear, and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, having 
picked out all the unsound ones, and stems ; let them remain in the sirup 
two days, then drain it off; make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour it over 
again; let them remain another day or two, then pour them in a preserv- 
ing kettle, over the fire, and simmer gently, until the sirup is reduced, and 
thick or rich. One pound of sugar to each pound of plums. Small 
dams.ons are ver}^ fine, preserved as cherries, or any other ripe fruit; clari- 
fy the sirup, and, when boiling hot, put in the plums; let them boil very 
gently until they are cooked, nnd the sirup rich. Put them in pots or 
jars ; the next day secure as directed. 

Tomato Preserves. — Take the round yellow variety of tomato, as soon 
as they are ripe, scald and peel;. then, to seven pounds of tomatoes add 
seven pounds of white sugar, and let them stand over night. Take the 
tomatoes out of the sugar, and boil the sirup, removing the scum. Put 
in the tomatoes, and boil gently fifteen or twenty minutes; remove the 
fruit again, and boil until the sirup thickens. On cooling, put the fruit 
into jars, and pour the sirup over it, and add a few slices of lemon to 
each jar, and you will have something to please the taste of the most 
fastidious, 

Orab-Apjjle Jelly. — Jelly from any other tart apples can be made in the 
same way as the following. The apples, however, should be sliced. The 
crab-apples have a very delicate flavor — better for jelly than that of other 
apples. Pour them in a kettle with just enough water to cover them, 
and let them boil four hours; then take them off the fire and rub them 
through a colender; this will separate the seeds and skin from the 
pulp; then strain them through a flannel bag. Then, to each pint of th« 
juice thus strained, add a pound of white sugar, and boil for twenty 
minutes; meanwhile skim, if necessary; then fill your glasses or molds, 
and let them stand for two or three days in the sun, till sufficiently 



42 THE house-keeper's guide. 

hardened. Dip in brandy a piece of unsized paper, and lay on the top of 
the jelly; then paste over the top of the mold a piece of letter paper, to 
keep out the air, and the jelly is ready to be put away for use. 

To make Good Ajyple Jelly. — Take apples of the best quality and good 
flavor, (not sweet), cut them in quarters or slices, and stew them till soft; 
then strain out the juice, being very careful not to let any of the pulp go 
through the strainer. Boil it to the consistency of molasses, then weigh 
it, and add as many pounds of crushed sugar, stirring it constantly till the 
sugar is dissolved. Add one ounce of extract of lemon to every twenty 
pounds of jelly, and when cold, set it away in close jars. It will keep 
good for years. Those who have not made jelly in this way will do well 
to try it; they wall tind it superior to currant jelly. 

Currant Jelly. — Pick fine red, but long, ripe currants from the stem ; 
bruise them, and strain the juice from a quart at a time through a thin 
muslin; wring it gently, to get all the liquid ; put a pound of white sugar 
to each pound of juice; stir it until it is all dissolved ; set it over a gentle 
fire; let it become hot, and boil for fifteen minutes; then try it by taking 
a spoonful into a saucer; when cold, if it is not quite firm enough, boil it 
for a few minutes longer. Or, pick the fruit from the stems ; weigh it 
nnd put into a stone pot; set it in a kettle of hot water, reaching nearly 
to the top; let it boil till the fruit is hot through, then crush them, and 
strain the juice from them; put a pound of white sugar to each pint of 
it; put it over the fire, and boil for fifteen minutes; try some in a saucer; 
when the jelly is thick enough, strain it into small white jars, or glass 
tumblers; when it is cold, cover with tissue paper, as directed. Glass 
should be tempered by keeping it in warm water for a short time before 
pouring any hot liquid into it ; otherwise it will crack. 

Currant Jelly witJiout Cooking. — Press the juice from the currants, and 
strain it; to every pint put a pound of fine white sugar; mix them to- 
gether until the sugar is dissolved, then put it into jars, seal them, and 
expose them. 

Cranherry Jelly., excellent, — Take any quantity of cranberries, and stew 
them in a sufiicient quantity of water till they are well done. Now strain 
them through a piece of linen, or a sieve, and to each pint of the juice, 
add one pound of white sugar, and boil till it jellies. This is superior to 
any jelly ever made. 

Compote of Apples. — Pare six large apples, cut them in lialf, and put 
them into a pan, with a little water and lemon juice. Next, clarify half 
a pound of sugar, skim it, and put the apples into it, adding the juice of 
a lemon, yet the whole on a fire. Turn the apples frequently, and cook 
them until they are sufiieieutly soft to be easily penetrated by a fork. 
Then take them out; strain the sirup, and reduce it by boiling; strain it 
again, and pour it over the apples. They may be served either hot or 
cold. Cut the peel of a rosy apple into various devices, and lay them on 
the apples, as a garnish. 

Dried Apple Jelly. — One quart of apples put in four quarts of water, 
and allowed to stand all night; boil till the goodness is out of the apple; 
strain to a quart of juice, add a pint of sugar, and boil till it comes to a 
jelly. 

Ilaspbcrry, Red Currant, and. Strawberry Jellies may be made by put- 
ting the fruit into an earthen pan, bruising it with a wooden spoon, adding 
a little cold water and some iinely-powdered loaf sugar. In an hour or 
two, strain it through a jelly bag, and to a quart of the juice add one 
ounce of isinglass which Las been dissolved in half a pint of water, well 
skimmed, strained, and allowed to cool ; mix all well, and pour into an. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 43 

earthen mold. Lemon juice should be lidded to jellies, in proportion to 
their acidity. 

Apple Jelly, No. 2. — Pare, core, and cut thirteen good apples into 
small bits ; as they are cut, throw them into two quarts of cold water; boil 
them in this, with the peel of a lemon, till the substance is extracted, and 
nearly half the liquor wasted ; drain them through a hair sieve, and to 
a pint of the liquid add one pound of loaf sugar, pounded, the juice of 
one lemon, and the beaten whites of one or two eggs ; put it into a sauce- 
pan, stir it till it boils, take ofl" the scum, and let it boil till clear, and then 
pour it into a mold. 

Raspberry Jam. — Weigh equal proportions of pounded loaf sugar and 
raspberries; put the fruit into a preserving pan, and with a silver spoon 
mash it well; let it boil six minutes; add the sugar, and stir well with tlia 
fruit. When it boils, skim it, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. 

Strawberry Ja,m. — Gather the scarlet strawberries, when perfectly ripe, 
bruise them well, and add the juice of other strawberries; take an equal 
weight of lump sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly into the fruit, 
and set on a slow lire ; boil it twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it 
rises; pour it into glasses or jars, and, when cold, tie them down. 

White or Red Currant Jam. — Pick the fruit very nicely, and allow 
an equal quantity of finely-pounded loaf sugar ; put a layer of each, 
alternately, into a preserving pan, and boil for ten minutes; or they may 
be boiled the same length of time in sugar previously clarified, and boiled 
like candy. 

Currant Jam. — Pick the currants free from stems ; weigh three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit ; strain the juice from half 
of tliem, then crush the remainder and the sugar together, and put them 
with the juice in a kettle, and boil until it is a smooth jellied mass; have 
a moderate fire, that it may not burn the preserves. 

To Keep Red Gooseberries. — Pick gooseberries when fully ripe, and for 
each quart take a quarter of a pound of sugar and a gill of water ; boil 
together until quite a sirup; then put in the fruit, and continue to boil 
gently for fifteen minutes; then put them into small stone jars; when cold, 
cover them close ; keep them for making tarts or pies. 

Dried Peaches. — Peaches, as usually dried, are a very good fruit, but 
can be made vastly better, if treated the right way. Last season, the re- 
ceipts which had quite a circulation in the papers, of drying the fruit by 
a stove, after halving it, and sprinkling a little sugar into the cavity left 
by the extracted pits, was tried in our family. The fruit was found to be 
most excellent ; better, to the taste of nine persons out of ten, than of 
any other peach preserves, by far. The peaches, however, were good ones 
before drying ; for it is doubtful whether poor fruit can be made good by 
that process, or any other. 

Tomato Sauce. — Gather your tomatoes when fully ripe, and, after wash- 
ing them, mash them in some suitable vessel. Then place them in a 
kettle over a moderate fire, and when just warmed through, press a 
colender down upon them — then dipping from the colender all the 
w^atery juice possible. After boiling a shoi't time, strain the mass through 
a wire sieve, just fine enough to retain the rind of the fruit ; then return 
it to the kettle, and boil it down to the desired consistency, (some prefer 
it thin, as it retains more of the flavor,) taking all care that it does not 
become scorched in the process. Heat the bottles you intend to use in a 
steamer, to boiling heat, and while they retain this heat, fill them with 
sauce in a boiling state. Then cork them immediately with good corks, 
and place them where they will cool slowly. Tomatoes, thus prepared, 



44 THE house-keeper's guide. 

will keep good, and retain all their original freshness and flavor, until 
their season comes round again. 

Tomato Catsup. — Wash your tomatoes and cut them up; boil and strain 
them through a sieve. To two quarts of the juice, add 1 pint of strong 
cider vinegar, and mace, cloves, spice, and cayenne to taste. Boil 15 or 20 
minutes, and, when cool, bottle for use. 

To Pickle Cucmnbers. — "Wipe and put them in salt water, strong enough 
to bear an ^^g^^^ in which let them remain six or seven days; then scald in 
vinegar to green them; after which put them in cold, spiced vinegar. 
Beans are done the same. 

Superior Method. — Put them into salt water for three days, then scald 
weak vinegar and turn to them, and let them remain three more days, 
when you must scald 3'our new vinegar, with a few onions, ginger-root, 
and horseradish, and set them in a cool place for use. 

To Pickle Tomatoes. — Always use those which are thoroughly ripe. The 
small round ones are decidedly the best. Do not prick them, as most 
receipt-books direct. Let them lie in strong brine three or four da^'s ; 
then put them in layers in your jars, mixing them with small onions and 
pieces of horseradish. Then pour on the vinegar, (cold), which should 
b'i first spiced, as in the receipt given for peppers ; let there be a spice- 
bag to throw into every pot. Cover them carefully, and set them by in 
the cellar for a full month before using. 

To Keejy Jams, Jellies, and Preserves from Mold. — The closet in which 
sweetmeats are kept should be perfectly dry and cool. If that i« the case, 
and the following receipts used, preserves will keep for years. Cut a round 
circle of writing paper, the size of the interior of the pot, and one about 
an inch and a half larger. Take the white of an Qg^, and a pnste-brush, 
and lay a coating of white of egg over the surface of the smaller circle, 
and then lay that piece on the top of the jam, with the untouched side of 
the paper next to the jam. Take the larger piece, and coat that on one 
side with white of egg, and let the surface thus coated be the one turned 
inward. This circle is to cover the pot; and the white of egg renders it 
adhesive, and pastes it firmly down all around the edge of tlie crack. 

Patent Honey. — Take five pounds of good common sugar, two pounds 
of water, gradually bring to a boil, skimming well ; when cold, add one 
pound bee's honey, and four drops essence of peppermint. 

Preserves without Fruit or Sugar. — Boil one pint of molasses from fiv? 
to twenty minutes, (according to its consistency,) stir in three finely 
beaten eggs, and boil a few minutes longer; season with lemon and nut- 
meg if you like. 

Clarified Molasses. — Common molasses may be clarified and rendered 
much more palatable by heating it over the fire and pouring in .sweet milk 
in the proportion of one pint to a gallon of molasses. When the molasses 
boils up once, the albumen in the milk collects all the impurities in a thick 
scum upon the top, which must be carefully removed, and the molasses is 
then fit for use. Bullock's blood is also used for this purpose, but milk 
is more agreeable, in many ways, for domestic use. 

Watery Potatoes. — If your potatoes are watery, put a piece of lime, 
about as large as a hen's agg, in the pot^ and boil with them, and they will 
come out as mealy as you please. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 45 

HINTS TO HOUSEKEEPEKS. 

If your flat-irons are rough and smoky, lay a little fine salt on a flat 
surface, and rub them well; it will prevent them from sticking to any- 
thing starched, and make them smooth. 

Kub your griddle with fine salt before you grease it, and your cako 
will not stick. 

When walnuts have been kept until the meat is too much dried to bo 
good, let them stand in milk and water eight hours, and dry them, and 
they will be as fresh as when new. 

It is a good plan to keep your different kinds of pieces tape, thread, 
&c., in separate bags, and there is no time lost in looking for them. 

Oats straw is best for filling of beds, and it is well to change it as 
often as once a j^ear. 

Cedar chests are best to keep flannels, for cloth moths are never found 
in them. Red cedar chips are good to keep in drawers, wardrobes, clos- 
ets, trunks, &c., to keep out moths. 

When cloths have acquired an unpleasant odor by being kept from 
the air, charcoal, laid in the folds, will soon remove it. 

If black dresses have been stained, boil a handful of fig-leaves in a 
quart of water, and reduce it to a pint. A sponge dipped in this liquid 
and rubbed upon them, will entirely remove stains from crapes, bom- 
bazines, &c. 

In laying up furs for summer, lay a tallow candle in or near them, 
and danger from worms will be obviated. 

To prevent metals from rusting, melt together three parts of lard 
and one of resin, and apply a very thin coating. It will preserve 
Russia iron stoves and grates from rusting during summer, even in 
damp situations. The efiect is equally good on brass, copper, steel, &c. 



MEDICAL DEPARTMENT. 



In- giving this department to the public, we do not intend to give speci- 
fies for every disease to which human flesh is heir; but only a limited 
number of prescriptions, which have been thoroughly tested and proved 
puccessful in the treatment of well-known diseases, which seem to baffle 
the skill of the " Eegular Faculty;" and also a few plain directions to be 
pursued, in cases of emergency, where the services of a physician can not 
be immediately procured. In the first place, the limits which we have 
set for the work will not admit of the space necessary for a detailed de- 
scription of all diseases and their remedies, as this would require a volume 
of several hundred pages. Then, again, no one but a regular physician 
is competent to decide upon the nature of all diseases, and to prescribe 
their remedies under the existing circumstances, as there are scarcely two 
cases, even in the same disease, that require to be treated exactly alike. 
Those, however, which we have given, are the best that can be com- 
pounded for the purposes for which they are designed ; as they are com- 
posed of nearly all plants known to the materia medica, the properties 
of which act specifically upon the functions of the organs designed to be 
atfected. Being purely vegetable, no harm can result from their use; 
besides, they are far inore efficacious than the "mineral poisons" usually 
employed by the Faculty for the same purpose. 

The vegetable materia uiedica, which we have compiled from the United 
States Dispensatory, gives the reader a knowledge of the properties of 
the remedies which he employs; besides, it supplies him Vv'ith a basis, or 
the data, for compounding remedies for the treatment of other diseases 
than those here prescribed for. 

Covgli Siintp. — Make a strong decoction of hoarhound, liverwort, ground 
ivy, and licorice root; sweeten with honey and loaf sugar, to make a thick 
sirup, and then boil for fifteen or twenty minutes, If the cough be severe, 
take a table-spoonful \qvy often. If the throat be sore, add a little gum 
camphor to the mixture. 

A Sure Care for Fever and Ac/ue. — Take best Peruvian bark, two ounces; 
wild cherry-tree bark, two ounces; poplar, one ounce; ginger, one table- 
spoonful ; cinnamon, one drachm; balmony, one ounce; capsicum, one 
table-spoonful; cloves, quarter ounce. Have all finely pulverized, and put 
in two quarts guod port wine, and let it stand one or tv/o days before 
using. Take a wine-ghissful four or five times a day, and the disease will 
soon disappear. Much better and safer than quinine. 

The Betit To)iic and Caihar tic for Liver Complaint and Dyspepsia extant. 
— Chamomile flowers, two ounces ; dandelion root, four ounces ; yellow dock 
root, three ounces; burdock root, three ounces; sarsaparilla, three ounces; 
blood root, two ounces; liverwort, one ounce; hops, two ounces; wild 
cherry-tree bark, two ounces. Put all these together (in a crude state) in 
one vessel, and cover with water^ at least three quarts or more, and steep 
(not boil) for several hours ; then strain through a piece of muslin. 
There should be at least three pints of the liquid after it is strained, and 
it must not be allowed to evaporate while steeping, so there will be a less 
quantity; if it should, add a little more water before straining. The 
safest way is to keep on water enouy:h while steeping, so tliat when you 
46' 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 47 

press down with the bowl of a spoon, the water will always come over 
the place so pressed. Having strained the liquor from the dregs, add 
three-fourths of a pint of London Dock or Holland gin, one and a-half 
ounces rhubarb, and two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger. Take one 
or two table-spoonfuls night and morning (on retiring and getting up), or 
just enough to keep the bowels gentl}^ open. 

Let dyspeptics persevere in taking this regularly, live upon a light and 
nourishing diet, keep the body clean, by frequent ablutions, and take 
plenty of exercise in the open air, and their ailments will soon disappear. 

This cured mj' dyspepsia, and liver complaint of fifteen years standing, 
raised me from a mere living skeleton, with my weight less than ninety 
pounds, to one hundred and fifty-live pounds, being twenty pounds more 
than I had ever before weighed. 

A Pleasant and Healthy Tonic for Restoring the Appetite. — Take one 
ounce pulverized golden seal, one ounce pulverized balmony, one ounce 
pulverized poplar, half ounce pulverized cloves, and put into one quart 
of good wine (currant or rhubarb is best), with a tea-cupful of loaf sugar. 
Let it stand a day or two, shaking it occasionally, and take a wine-glass- 
ful three times a day, before meals. This is an excellent tonic, and may 
be taken with advantage in connection with the one above. 

Nervine for Female Weahness and Nervous Debility. — Take one ounce 
valerian, one ounce j^arrow, one ounce golden rod, one ounce unicorn, one 
ounce lady's slipper, one ounce scull-cap, one ounce ginseng (all in a 
crude state), and steep in three pints of water till evaporated to one, when 
strained. Then mix with one quart good port wine, and add one ounce 
pulverized golden seal, half ounce pulverized cloves, and sweeten with 
loaf sugar to taste. 

Dose — Half a wine-glass three times a day^ before meals. Good in colic, 
pains in the stomach, flatulency, &c. 

Alterative Sirup for Scrofula, and all Diseases arising from Impurity of 
the Blood. — Yellow dock, two ounces; sarsaparilla, two ounces; prickly 
ash, two ounces; wintergreen, two ounces; blue flag, two ounces; bitter- 
sweet, two ounces. Put all together, in a crude state, and steep in three 
quarts of water till evaporated to one, when strained. Now add one pint 
good London Dock, or Holland gin, one ounce extract of dandelion, and 
one ounce of sulphur; sweeten with loaf sugar to taste. Dose — A table- 
spoonful three times a day before meals. If the bowels be costive, add 
one ounce pulverized rhubarb to the mixture. 

Rheumatic Drops, or No. Q. — Take gum-mj'rrh, one pound; golden seal, 
four ounces; African cayenne, one ounce; put these into a jug, with two 
quarts best brandy; shake several times a day for eight or ten days, when 
it is fit for use. This is a stimulant and tonic, and an excellent remedy 
for rheumatism, fresh wounds, bruises, sores, and sprains. It is also used 
in hemorrhage, mortification, &c. Dose — from one to two tea-spoonfuls 
in warm water. 

Cwnposition Powders. — Take one pound fine bayberry bark ; one-half 
pound ginger; three ounces of common cayenne, and mix them all to- 
gether. Dose — A tea-spoonful in a cup two-thirds full of boiling water ; 
sweeten, and add a little milk. 

An Excellent Liniment for Chits, Bruises, Sores, (J'c. — Take four ounces 
balm gilead buds, and steep for two or three days in one quart of alcohol; 
then turn oif the liquor, and add three ounces turpentine, four ounces 
gum camphor, three ounces oil arganum, two ounces sweet oil. For cuts, 
bruises, wounds, &;c., in either man or beast, it has no equal. For old 
gores and ulcers, first cleanse them thoroughly with a wash made of witch 



48 THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 

hazel, sumach, and elder bark; then use the liniment. If they result from 
impurity of the blood, or are of long standing, Ihen use the alterative 
sirup in connection with it. 

Diarrhea Cordial and Cholera Sirup. — Take three ounces blackberry root, 
one ounce golden seal, one ounce gum m3'rrh, one ounce bayberry, ono 
ounce evan root, one ounce sumach (leaves and berries), one ounce vale- 
rian, one ounce capsicum, one ounce allspice, one ounce ginger root. Put 
all, in a crude state, together, and steep in six quarts of water till evapor- 
ated to two after it is strained ; then add two quarts of good brandy, two 
ounces extract of dandelion, a little I'cd pepper (enough to make it toler- 
ably^ hot), and six or eight ounces loaf sugar. Dose — For an adult, from 
one to two table-spoonfuls, in a little warm water, as often as the sever- 
ity of the case may require. If taken freely, in large doses, in cases of 
cholera, it is a sure cure. Every person having a fi'iend in the army 
should make up a good-sized bottle, and send it to him. (If all the in- 
gredients can not at all times be obtained in compounding medicines 
from these receipts, it will not always matter particularly if a portion 
be left out, as the properties of many are identical. By reference to the 
Materia Medica here appended, it can be seen what the properties of each 
are, and then determined whether it be absolutely essential.) This medi- 
cine is a powerful tonic and astringent; but an astringent is not to be 
taken in all cases where there is looseness of the bowels. If the dis- 
charges be dark-colored, and of an oflensive character, they show a bil- 
ious and morbid condition of the stomach and bowels, which require to 
be thoroughly cleansed with some mild cathartic before any attempt is 
made to check them, when, as a general thing, the bowels will regulate 
themselves without any further treatment. If, however, watery dis- 
charges continue after the bilious matter has all passed off, then some 
astringent is necessary. Dysenter}^ is a disease of the colon (lower bowel), 
caused by morbid irritation and inflammation, producing hemorrhage and 
intense pain, and bearing down; in which case astringents, especially 
those of a hot and irritating nature, are not to be taken, as they only 
serve to keep up the inflammation and enhance the difliculty; but sooth- 
ing emolients, in the form of clysters, must be given in their stead. Por 
this purpose, infuse one tea-spoonful of the pulverized leaves of lobelia 
in one pint of slippery-elm water, and inject into the bowels about six 
ounces (a common tumbler full) at a time. If the bloody discharges and 
pains continue, also apply warm fomentations to the bowels, and give 
freely of hot ginger tea, so as to get up an action on the surface, which 
will withdraw the blood from within, and allows the inflammation to 
subside. If the slippery-elm water and lobelia can not be obtained right 
away, use starch-water. A lobelia emetic, for the purpose of cleansing 
the stomach, can be taken with advantage in this, and nearly all dis- 
eases of the bowels. If these simple rules were strictly observed in all 
cases of dysentery, many valuable lives might be saved, that otherwise 
would be sacrificed by the ignorance of the patient's friends, or ihe empiri- 
cism of "quacks," wiio make no distinction in the treatment of diarrhea 
and dysentery. 

The following receipts, for the cure of hydrophobia, diphtheria, &c., 
are taken from the papers designated in their respective headings, and 
we give them for what they are worth : 

Remedy for Diphilieria. — The following receipt for diphtheria — a dis- 
ease that is becoming dangerously prevalent throughout the country — we 
copy from the New York Tribune : We have received a receipt for the 
cure of diphtheria from a physieian, who says that of one thousand cases in 



THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 49 

which it has been used, not a single patient lias been lost. The treatment 
consists in thoroughly swabbing the back of the nioutli and throat with 
a wash made thus: Table-salt, two drachms; black pepper, golden seal, 
nitrate of potash, alum, one drachm each. Mix and pulverize; put into 
a teacup, which half fill with boiling water; stir well, and then fill up 
with good vinegar. Use every half hour, one, two, and four houi's, as 
recovery progresses. The patient may swallow a little each time. Apply 
one ounce each of spirits of turpentine, sweet oil, and aqua ammonia, 
mixed, to the whole of the throat, and to the breast-bone every four hours, 
keeping flannel to the part. 

Cu7'e of HydropJiobia. — The New York Worlds Paris correspondence 
says : Some of the medical journals are giving publicity now to an alleged 
cure for this terrible disease, which is communicated to them by the Eev. 
K. P. Legrand, who has been for many years a missionary in Syria, where 
hydrophobia is quite common, and where, he says, he has tried this rem- 
edy in sixty different cases, and performed sixty cures. If this be so, and 
there certainly is no reason to doubt the good father's word, the simple 
remedy Avhich he proposes should be made known all over the world. It 
is this: take three handfuls of the leaves of datura stramonium^ boil them 
in a quart of water till it is reduced to a pint, and make the patient drink 
the whole as soon as possible after the bite. A violent madness will 
ensue, but this is of short duration. A profuse perspiration follows, and 
in twenty-four hours the patient is cured. Cauterization should also be 
resorted to as quickly as possible, although the reverend father states that 
be has seen many cures effected where this has not been done. 

Important Medical Discovery. — A London correspondent of the Liber- 
ator gives this account: — A great discovery is just now engaging the 
attention of the scientific and medical world. Pew English names are 
more familiar to Americans than that of Dr. John Chapman, once the 
leading publisher of heretical books, now editor of the "Westminister, and 
always a devotee of science and medicine. He is well acquainted with 
many scientific and literary Americans; and many of them, among others 
Mr, Emerson, have resided in his house when in England. This Dr. 
Chapman has for years engaged in studies and experiments connected 
with the nervous s^'stem alone, with such men as Dr. Brown, Sequard, and 
Claud Bernard, of Paris. For the past year he has been proving a 
tremendous discovery — namely the cure of epilepsy, and many diseases 
hitherto deemed .incurable, by means of an external application of ice and 
hot water, in India rubber bags, at various parts of the spinal cord, acting 
thus upon the sympathetic nerve, and, through it, upon the most important 
and vital regions of the body. Many-^ninent physicians have accom- 
panied Dr. Chapman to see the marvels which he had wrought upon pa- 
tient, who had long ago despaired of health. Some physicians, among 
others Dr. Wilkinson ""( though a homeopathist) have so recognized the 
importance of the discovery as to commit to Dr. Chapman's care some 
of their patients. Cases are attested where a man for six years had three 
fits (on an average) daily, and a girl who had two from the ages of thir- 
teen to seventeen, had been entirely cured by ice. Just as wonderful 
have been the cures of paralysis. Many of the worst and most inveterate 
female diseases have yielded to the new cure. The treatment is as simple 
as it is grand. Any one who is troubled by the pressure of blood on the 
brain, will find that by holding a bag of ice on the nape of the neck ten 
minutes, an equable flow of blood can be secured. Those who are troub- 
led with habitual cold feet, may find relief by applying ice to the small 
of the back in the lumbar regions. It is hard to estimate the importance 
4 



St) THE UOUSE-KJiEPEJi's 01 IDE. 

of this discovery, which will, ere lonsj, be ranked by the side of Jenner. 
Several hospitals are already under I)r. Chapniau's practice, and as yet no 
one can bring forward an instance of failure. 

Cure for Small-Pox. — The German Reformed Messerifjer has received 
a letter from a friend in China, in which it is stated a great discovery is 
reported to have recently been made by a surgeon of the English army 
in China, in the way of an eft'ectual cure of small-pox. The mode of 
treatment is as follows: When the preceding fever is at its hight, and just 
before the eruption appears, the chest is rubbed with croton oil and tar- 
taric ointment. This causes the whole of the eruption to appear on that 
part of the body, to the relief of the rest. It also secures a full and com- 
plete eruption, and thus prevents the diseases from attacking the internal 
organs. This is said to be the established mode of treatment in the En- 
glish army in China, by general orders, and is regarded as a permanent 
cure. 

Hoio to Prevc7it the Defacing Marks of Small-Pox. — AVhile it is known 
to medical men that a total suppression of the eruption of small-pox will 
endanger the life of the sutferer, it is proved, by experience, that such a 
suppression can be undertaken on small portions of the body, for instance 
the face, without harm. The pomade of Baudoloque, made of six parts 
of pitch, (pix nigra), ten parts of yellow wax, and twenty-four parts of 
mercurial ointment, will answer that purpose.' When used, it should be 
warmed and all parts of the skin of the face be covered, and kept covered, 
continuall}^, for the space of four days ; the salve, if it proves efficacious, 
must be applied on the first or second day the eruption has broken out. 
Four days after the application, when removed, the eruption will have 
remained papulose, and the spots will disappear in time, without leaving 
any marks behind. Having experienced the good eflects from the admin- 
istration of this remedy, we hope the press of this city will promulgate 
it by publication, and earn their thanks from the smiling faces of those 
whom it will have spared a frightful disfiguration. 

The Erench Physicians are now using gutta-percha, dissolved in chlo- 
roform, in the same way, which is more simple, and answers every pur- 
pose. — N. 0. 2 rue Delia. 

EULES FOE THE PEESEEVATION OF THE HEALTH. 

"Always keep the head cool, and the feet warm." Go to bed early, and 
get up at the peep of day. Never be in a hurry when you eat, but mas- 
ticate your food well, and thoroughly mix it with the saliva of the mouth 
before swallowing, which is one-half the process of digestion. Above all, 
never wash your food down, half masticated, with a pint or more of tea 
or coflee. Too much lluid on the stomach dilutes the gastric juice, pre- 
vents its direct and immediate action, on the food, and, consequently, 
retards the process of digestion till the fluids have been absorbed. Drink 
very moderately with your meals, and nothing for two and a-lialf or three 
hours afterward. Avoid too much greasy and fatty substances. The too 
common practice of eating fat pork is the cause of more scrofula than all 
other causes combined. Fresh bread and hot biscuits are decidedly in- 
jurious, and unfit to be eaten. Eat regularly, and never between meals. 

Whatever may be your occupation, take plenty of daily exercise in the 
open air. If you can not work in the garden, saw and split wood, or do 
something else useful ; walk and run briskly, or ride on horseback. Don't 
gay that you have not time; for, in the long run, you will find it the best 
"put in" of any thing which you have done. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. ol 

Always have your house, especially the sleeping apartment, well venti- 
lated, be it warm or cold weather. 

Never sit in a room, on a cold or damp day, without a fire, if you are 
in any degree chilly and uncomfortable without one. But few causes 
are more productive of disease than this practice, which is almost uni- 
versal. People generally take their stoves down too early in the spring, 
and neglect putting them up till late in the fall; some, in fact, till dire 
necessity actual!}' drives them to it. This is more pariicularl}'^ the case 
in hotels and boarding-houses, which is not only a groat inconvenience, 
but an actual injustice to guests and boarders. Better to save the "al- 
mighty dollar" by robbing them of one-half their meals, than to deprive 
them of the comforts of a warm and comfortable room, on a cold, chilly 
day. 

Avoid contracting colds as much as possible; and when taken, endeavor 
to break them up as soon as you can. If you have been caught in a rain- 
storm, and your clothes have become drenched through, never sit down, 
or remain idle one minute after you get where you can exchange them 
for di-y ones. As soon as you discover that your pores are closed, from 
having allowed any part of your body to become chilled, keep yourself 
comfortably warm, within doors, till the difficulty has been removed. 
Drink plentifully of warm ginger, pennyroyal, or sage-tea ; evacuate the 
bowels by enemas, and live upon warm broths and gruels. Vapor baths 
are excellent in removing colds. Attend to these conditions promptly, 
and no permanent injury will ensue; but if neglected, pulmonary dis- 
eases, which will ultimate in consumption, will often be the result, to say 
nothing of the dangers of pneumonia, congestions, &c. 

Avoid sleeping on feather-beds, and under too much clothing, as it 
retains the perspiration and noxious exhalations from the bod}'', and pre- 
vents a free circulation of the air. Woolen blankets are preferable to 
cotton conrforts. 

Never allow yourself to become passionately angry, or unduly excited; 
but uniformly endeavor to preserve an equanimity and serenity of mind, 
which will greatly tend to the promotion of your health and happiness. 

Never indulge in the filthy, disgusting, and enervating practice (now 
a universal crime among all so-called civilized nations) of smoking and 
chewing tobacco, as no other cause is more prolific of deleterious etlects 
upon both mind and body. 

If you have become so thoroughly wedded to the " weed" that you can 
not give it up yourself, for heaven's sake, and the sake of humanity, don't 
permit your darling boy to imitate your bad example, so long as he 
remains under your guardianship; and when he arrives at man's estate, 
the chances are, if he be possessed of a reasonable share of common sense, 
that he will not then take it up. Mothers, see to it, that your boys do 
not acquire this man-killing habit before you are aware of it. 

Xeep the body clean by frequent ablutions. Never go more than one 
week in cold weather, and not more than one or two days in warm 
weather, without washing your person all over. 

Regulate the temperature of the water by that of the weather, and the 
constitution and vitality of the system. If the constitution be feeble, 
with but little vitality in the system, never, especially in winter, use water 
with the temperature much below the heat of the body — that is, 96 deg. 
Fahrenheit ; then wipeyourself perfectly dry, and rub briskly with the hand, 
or a dry towel. Persons of strong, robust constitutions, may use cold 
water, as the superabundance of animal heat will be sutileient to get up 
a reaction, and carry off the excessive cold. AVere the above rules uni- 



52 THE house-keeper's (JC[DE, 

versally and strictly observed, nine-tenths of the "ills" and "ails" to 
whi(3h human flesh is heir, would disappear fronv the fuce of our beauti- 
ful earth, 

WATER AS A REMEDIAL AGENT. 

The "Water-cure," as it is called, is good as an auxiliary in the treat- 
ment of nearly till diseases, especially those of a febrile nature; but it is 
not, as the hydropathics claim, a universal panacea, and will not do to 
depend upon, unaided by other remedies. The wise physician makes his 
selection from the entire Laboratory of Nature, using all remedies which 
experience litis proved to be beneficial, instead of confining himself ex- 
clusively to any particular one-idea system ; though the hydropathic, as 
an exclusive system, is, undoubtedly, preferable to the old system of 
poisoning with calomel, cupping and bleeding, which is now fast going 
out of use among more enlightened minds, in the old, or Alopathic school 
of practice. 

Water requires to be employed with discretion, or much harm may 
result from its use. However, it may be used by almost any person with- 
out danger, in nearly all cases of febrile attacks, where there is severe 
local inflammation or general fever. 

If the disease be local, and the parts much swollen and highly Inflamed, 
bathe frequently in cold water, and apply cloths wet in cold water as often 
as they become warm, till the inflammation subsides. In cases of general 
fever, where the pulse ranges from 90 up to 120, sponge the surface all 
over with wtiter more or less cold, according to the constitution, general 
health, and present condition of the patient. The safest rule is, to use it 
of such a temperature as will feel cool, refreshing, and agreeable when 
applied; but never when it produces a chilly sensation, and a shrinking 
from it. This last rule will apply to consumptives, and all persons in 
feeble health. Observe these rules strictly, and no harm will result from 
its use; but, in most of cases, much good will come therefrom. 

Pure fresh air is another ver}^ important consideration in the treatment 
of the sick. Always have the chamber of the sick well ventilated, but 
not in such manner as to bring the bed into a direct draft, as there will 
be danger of taking cold. 

Sunlight is the next consideration of importance, both to the sick and 
the healthy. Persons, as well as plants, can not thrive well when 
deprived of the vivifying and genial influence of the direct rays of the 
sun; hence it is highly injurious to have your house all hemmed in with 
shade-trees, or the walls of adjoining buildings. This is evident from the 
fact that in all large towns and cities, the buildings on the south side 
of the street, where the rays of the sun never penetrate in midday, are 
the most unhealthy; and that in tunes of prevailing epidemics, by far the 
largest percentage of mortality is in buildings so situated. Therefore, 
keep your shtide-trees at a proper distance from your building, throw open 
your blinds, and, as nearly as possible, admit the direct rays of the sun 
into every part of your house daily. 

In the treatment of nearly all diseases, whether acute or chronic, more 
depends upon these conditions of pure, fresh air, sunlight, exercise, diet, 
and cleanliness, than in the skill of physicians and the potency of medi- 
cines ; which, however, are right and proper, when properly used. 

DIET AND BEVERAGES FOR THE SICK. . 

Remarks. — Where persons have become very weak and much pros- 
trated from the efl'ects of fevers and other diseases, nothing, especially 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 63 

after the disease is broken, iand the patient is beginning to be convales- 
cent, is of so much importance as suitable food and drinks; as the least 
indiscretion, in this respect, will often bring on a relapse, which will be 
apt to prove fatal. Therefore, avoid all hard and indigestible substances, 
such as pastry of every kind and description ; crude and uncooked vegeta- 
bles; hard and unripe fruit; tough and fatty meats; hi^;h]y-seasoned and 
rich soups, and all strong and intoxicating beverages. 

Beej' Tea. — This is the most proper food that can be given where the 
patient is in a low, prostrate condition, with but little recuperative povver 
left in the system. It is made as follows: Take a piece of tender, lean 
beef, large enough, when cut up, to fill a large cottee-cup; cut it very 
fine, almost into mince; put it into two cups, or double its own bulk of 
cold water; bring it to a boil, skimming it as the skum rises to the top; 
continue the boiling till one-half of the water has been evaporated, when 
it is ready for use. Use no seasoning, except a very little salt. If the 
patient be much reduced, from the effects of prostrating fevers, or other 
causes, this is to be given, at first, in teaspoon quantities; then gradually 
increased in quantity, as the patient gains strength — taking care that no 
more is taken at a time than the stomach is able to bear. Better give a 
little, often, than to overload the stomach with more than it can manage. 
As soon as the patient recovers sulficiently to require something solid, a 
little toasted soda-cracker, or nice wheaten bread, may be crumbed in with 
the broth. If beef can not alwaj's be procured, the next best thing is 
mutton, wild fowls, squirrels, rabbits, and, last of all, chickens. Wild 
fowls are much healthier than domestic ones, and venison is healthier 
than beef or mutton. 

Broths made from boiling mutton, or other meat, with pearl-barley, 
till the latter becomes a jelly, is an excellent diet for the sick. First soak 
the barley several hours in cold water, then put the water and barley, 
together with the meat, in the pot, and boil till sufilciently done. Kice, 
cooked in the same way, is also good. 

Corn-Starch. — Get the Oswego corn-starch, and make into light, boiled 
puddings. Take all milk, or part milk and part water, and bring to a boil; 
then stir in corn-starch, which has been beaten into a paste, and thinned 
with milk or water, till it is of the proper consistency. Cook for fifteen 
or twenty minutes over a moderate tire, stirring it all the while, to pre- 
vent its burning. For sick people, do not put in eggs, according to the 
directions accompanying each package, as the eggs, when cooked hard, 
are too hard to digest. This is as good as the Bermuda arrow-root, and 
is much cheaper. 

iiago. — Wash it clean, and soak in cold water for one hour ; now put 
in a stew-pan, in the same water, and cook gently till it is done. Season 
with a little nutmeg and lemon, and also add wine and sugar, if you like. 
If preferred, it can be boiled the same way in new milk. 

Meal Gruel. — Stir a little Indian-meal, or oatmeal, with water, and boil 
thoroughly till well done, stirring it so it will not burn. 

Milk Porridge. — Bring one quart of milk to a boil, and stir in a little 
flour, which has been well beaten into a paste, and thinned, till it is of 
the desired consistency. Cook till well done. Koast and baked potatoes, 
baked apples, and soft-boiled eggs, are good for sick persons when in aa 
advanced state of convalescence, but are not good to be eaten at first, as 
they would prove too much for the digestive organs. 

Ihast. — Take good, nice wheaten bread, and cut in slices, and toast till 
a little brown ; now put a slice on a plate, and turn on a little hot water, 
and allow it to remain long enough to moisten it all through, but nc* 



54 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S UUIDE. 

longer; then sprinkle a little salt over it, spread it with a little fresh but- 
ter, or sweet cream. Prepare what you want ia the same way; and, 
having put all the slices together on the same plate, set it in the oven, and 
allow it to remain till it becomes well heated all through, but not long 
enough to bake and become dry. This is not a bad dish for well people 
to take. 

Toast Water. — Toast two or three slices of bread till well browned all 
through, but not burned in the least. Put in a pitcher, and turn on one 
pint of hot water, and let it stand for half an hour or so, when it is ready 
for use. Sweeten with loaf sugar, if you like. This is cool and nour- 
ishing. 

Slippery Elm and Date-Water is also cool and nourishing for sick peo- 
ple. Take a tumblerful of nice plump dates, or of slippery elm, and put 
into a pint of cold water, and let it stand till it becomes thick, like mucil- 
age or gum-water. People have been known to live for weeks upon this, 
when the stomach was unable to bear any thing else. 

Lemon and Orange-ade is a good beverage for persons sick with a fever. 

Why Children Die. — One reason why children die is because they are 
not taken care of. From the day of birth, they are stufled with food, 
and choked with physic, sloshed with water, sufiocated in hot rooms, 
steamed in bed-clothes. So much for in-door. When permitted to bi-eathe 
a breath of pure air once a week in summer, and once or twice during 
the colder months, only the nose is permitted to peer into daylight, A 
little later, they are sent out with no clothing at all on the parts of the 
body which most need protection. Bare legs, bare arms, bare necks, girted 
middle, with an inverted umbrella to collect the air and chill the other 
})arLs of the body. A stout, strong man goes out on a cold day with gloves 
and overcoat, woolen stockings, and thick, double-soled boots, with cork 
between and rubbers over. The same day a child of three years old, an 
infant tlesh, blood, bone, and constitution, goes out with shoes as thin as 
paper, cotton socks, legs uncovered to the knees, neck bare ; an exposure 
which would disable the nurse, kill the mother outright, and make the 
father an invalid for weeks. And why? To harden them to a mode of 
dress which they are never expected to practice ; to accustom them to 
exposure which, a dozen years later, would be considered downright fool- 
cry. To rear children thus for the slaughter-pen, and then lay it on the 
Lord, is too bad. We don't think the Almighty had any hand in it. 
And to draw comfort from the presumption that He had an agency in 
the death of the child is a profanation. — Journal of Health. 

Dieting. — Dieting is usually considered to mean the same thing as a 
kind of starvation. The idea which the educated physician attaches to 
the term is a judicious regulation of the quantity and quality of the food, 
according to the circumstances of each case. A healthy man may diet 
himself in order to keep well; an invalid may diet with a view to the 
i-ecovery of his health ; yet the things eaten by the two will widely ditfer 
in their nature, bulk, and mode of preparation. A vast multitude are 
suffering hourly by the horrors of dyspepsia ; no two are precisely alike 
in all points, since there is an endless variety of combinations as to age, 
sex, occupation, air, exercise, mode of eating, sleeping, constitution, tem- 
perament, etc. Yet dyspepsia is always brought on by over and irregular 
eating; it could be banished from the world in a generation, if the chil- 
dren were educated to eat moderately, regularly, and slowly ; the parents 
who do this will do their offspring a higher good than by leaving them 
large fortunes, which, in three cases out of four, foster idleness, gluttony 
and every evil thing. As the rich can get any thing to eat or drink when 



THE nOUSE-KEEPER"'S GUIDE. 55 

w^anted, Ihey, with indulged children, bring on dj^spepsia by eating irreg- 
ilarly and without an appetite. The poor — those who have to work for 
a living — induce the horrible disease by eating too rapidly and at unsea- 
sonable hours; mainly by eating heartily at supper, and going to bed within 
an hour or two afterward. In the heyday of youth and manly vigor 
there may not for a while be noticed any special ill effect from such a 
practice — in truth, it is at first inappreciable, but it is cumulative, and im- 
possible not to manifest itself in due time. Infinite Benevolence forgives 
a moral delinquency; but Omnipotent as He is, and loving towards all, it 
is not in the nature of His government of created things to work a mir- 
acle, to sus]')end a natural law, in order to shield one of his creatures from 
the legitimate effects of a violence offered the physical system by excesses 
in eating, drinking, or exercise. 

Perhaps hearty suppers make more dyspeptics than any or all other 
causes combined. If dinner is at noon, nothing should be taken for sup- 
per but a single cup of weak tea or other hot drink, and a piece of stale 
bread and butter. After forty years of age, those who live in-doors, 
sedentary persons — that is, all who do not work with their hands as 
laborers — would do better not to take any supper at all. Half the time 
the sedentary, who eat at noon, do not feel hungry at supper; especially 
if they see nothing on the table but bread and butter and tea. But Nature 
is goaded on to act against her instincts in almost every family in the 
nation by " relishes" being placed on the supper-table, in the shape of 
chipped beef, salt fish, cake, preserves or other kinds of sweetmeats, and 
befure the person is aware, a hearty meal has been taken, resulting in 
present uncomfortableness, in disturbed sleep, in a weary waking in the 
morning, bad taste in the mouth, and little or no appetite for breakfast, 
all of which can be avoided by beginning early to eat habitually, accord- 
ing to the suggestions above made. — HaWs Journal of Health. 



POISONS AND THEIH ANTIDOTES. 

It not un frequently happens that serious and distressing results are oc- 
casioned by the accidental employment of poisons ; and we herewith sub- 
mit a compendious list of the more common poisons, and the remedies for 
them most likely to be at hand: 

Acids. — These cause great heat and sensation of burning pain, from the 
mouth down to the stomach. Remedies : Magnesia, soda, pearlash or soap 
dissolved in water; then use stomach-pump or emetics. 

Alkalies. — The best I'emed}^ is ginger. 

Ammmiia. — Remedy : Lemon-juice or ginger ; afterward milk and water, 
or flaxseed tea. 

Alcohol. — First cleanse out the stomach by an emetic ; then dash cold 
water on the head, and give ammonia (spirits of hartshorn). 

Arsenic. — llemedies: in the first place evacuate the stomach; then give 
the v>^hito of eggs, lime-water, or chalk and water, charcoal, and the prep- 
arations of iron, particularly hydrate. 

Lead. — White lead and sugar of lead. Remedies: Alum, cathartic, such 
as castor oil and Epsom salts especially. 

Charcoal. — In poison by carbonic gas, remove the patient to the open 
air, dash cold water on the head and body, and stimulate the nostrils 
and lungs by hartshorn, at the same time rubbing the chest briskly. 

Corrosive Suhlhiuite. — Give the white of eggs freshly mixed with water, 
or give v/heat flour and water, or soap and water freely. 



56 THE IIOlJSE-KEErER's GUIDE. 

Oreosoic. — Wliile of eg-o:3 and emetics. 
■ Belladona or night Henbane. — Give emetics, and then plenty of vineg.ir 
and water, or lemonade. 

Miuslirooyns., lohen Poisonous. — Give emetics, and then plenty of vinegar 
and water, with dose of either, if handy. 

Nitrate of Silver (Lunar Caustic.) — Give a strong solution of common 
salt, and then emetics. 

Opium.— First give a strong emetic of mustard and water, then strong 
coflee and acid drinks; dash cold water on the head. 

Laudanum. — Same as opium. 

Nux Vomica. — First emetics, then brandy*. 

Oxalic Acid. — Frequently mistaken for !]%)som salts. Remedies : Chalk, 
magnesia, or soap and water freely, then emetics. 

Nitrate of Potash, or Saltpeter. — Give emetics, then copious draughts 
of llaxseed tea, milk and water, and other soothing drinks. 

Prussic Acid. — When there is tira, administer chlorine in the shape 
of soda or lime; hot brandy and water. Hartshorn and turpentine are 
also useful. 

Snake-bites, etc. — Apply, immediately, strong hartshorn, and take it 
internally. Also give sweet oil and stimulants freely. Apply a ligature 
tight above the part bitten, and then apply a cupping glass. 

Tartar Emetic. — Give large doses of tea made out of galls, Peruvian 
bark, or white-oak bark. 

Tobacco. — First an emetic, then a stringent tea, then stimulants. 

Verdigris. — Plenty of the white of eggs and water. 

White Vitriol. — Give the patient plenty of milk and water. 

In almost all cases of poisons, emetics are highly useful, and of these, 
one of the very best, because most prompt and ready, is the common 
mustard flour or powder, a tea-spoonful of which, stirred up in warm 
water, may be give every live minutes, until free vomiting can be ob- 
tained. 

Emetics and warm demulcent drinks, such as milk and water, flaxseed 
or slippery-elm tea, chalk-water, etc., should be administered without 
delay. The subsequent management of the case will, of course, be left to 
a physician. 

VEGETABLE MATERIA MEDICA. 

Lobelia Lijlata. — The properties of this plant have long been known to 
the Aborigines of this countiy, but Dr. Samuel Thompson has tlie honor 
of bringing it into general use, and of establishing its efiicacy in the 
treatment of various diseases. This herb, properly administered, will 
subdue diseases of long standing, which have resisted the power of every 
other remedy. It is one of the niost powerful and eftective emetics that 
can be given, and is of incalculable value in the treatment of all morbid 
aflections of the stomach, poisonings, etc. There is scarcely a case arising 
from a morbid and bilious condition of the stomach, and other viscera, in 
which an emetic may not be taken with great advantage to the patient, 
as it expels all morbific matter, and removes all obstructions which retard 
the process of digestion. It may be administered occasionally in all cases 
of dyspepsia and mdigestion, cholera-morbus, diarrhea, dysentery, etc. I 
have seen persons lingering along with a poor appetite, or none at all, 
with constant nausea at the stomach, m spite of the most powerful reme- 
dies administered by skillful hands, take one or two lobelia emetics and 
throw up nearly a pint of phlegm and slimy matter, vrhich had lain on 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 57 

the stomach so long that it had become tough and ropy, so that when hfted 
up it Avould hang in strings ten or twelve inches long. This "sliming,'* 
as it is sometimes termed, adheres closely to the coatings of the stomach, 
and almost entirely prevents the action of the gastric juice upon the food; 
and nothing will so effectually dislodge and expel it, as a good lobelia 
emetic. Whatever may be the prejudices of the patient against this 
harmless but powerful remed}'-, it will all be removed on taking one or two 
doses, followed with the expulsion fi'om the stomach of half a pint or more 
of morbific or bilious matter, the speedy return of his appetite, and a 
feeling better generally, and at the stomach particularly. 

The following is the best method of administering it: Take one tea- 
spoonful of ginger and put in a pitcher and pour on one quart of hot 
water. When a little cool, take a tea-cupful (with sugar if you like,) and 
repeat every five minutes till all is drunk up; now put a tea-spoonful of 
a mixture (equal parts,) of bayberry bark and ginger into the pitcher, 
and pour on another quart of boiling water; let it steep a few moments, 
and -then take a tea-spoonful of the pulverized leaves of lobelia and put 
into a teacup, which fill two-thirds full of the tea from the pitcher; let it 
stand covered for five minutes, then give the patient one-half of it, to be 
followed b}^ more of the new tea. If, after the lapse of five or ton min- 
utes, vomiting does not ensue, give the balance of the lobelia, and drink 
again of the tea till it commences, and the stomach becomes thoroughly 
evacuated. Should the first dose produce the desired effect, then pour 
more water on the grounds in the pitcher, drink again of the tea, and take 
the remaining portion of the lobelia, as in the first dose. If the bayberry 
and ginger can not at all times be had, use pennyroyal tea in the same 
manner. This emetic is simple, and can be administered by almost any 
adult person, and, in nine cases out of ten, will be sufficient to completely 
evacuate the stomach, while now and then a case will require double the 
quantity of lobelia. 

Skunk Cabbage. — The root is stimulant and expectorant; useful in 
coughs, asthma, and all pulmonary complaints. It is also given to chil- 
dren, to destroy worms. 

Alder. — This is an astringent, useful in bleeding at the lungs, or as a 
wash for ulcers. 

Motherwort. — This will ease the pain in the nervous headache. 

Balm Gilcad Buds. — Steeped in spirits, excellent for bathing wounds. 

Mullen. — This is physical ; good, simmered in lard, for piles. 

Burdock. — This is a cathartic; it will produce perspiration. The leaves 
are good in fevers, to bind upon the head and feet. 

Blackbc7'ry. — This is astringent; wevj valuable in dysentery. 

Plantain. — Good, combined with lard, for the salt-rheum; its juice will 
cure the bite of snakes. 

Bluejlac). — Useful in fevers, or to expel humors from the system. Dose — 
half a tea-spoonful three times a day. 

Prickly Ash. — The bark and berries of the prickly ash are stimulant and 
tonic. They are almost a sovereign remedy for cold feet and hands, and 
all diseases dependent on a sluggish or languid circulation. Dose — from 
half to a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark and berries. 

Smart Weed. — This herb produces powerful sweating ; is an excellent 
remedy to break up a cold when threatened with a fever. It may be 
drank in tea at liberty. 

May Weed. — It is a stimulant and tonic, useful in febrile attacks, sudden 
colds, cough, etc. This is commonly used in the form of tea, induces per- 
fpiration, and sometimes vomiting. 



58 THE HOUSE-KEErEIl's GUIDE. 

Chamomile. — It is a stimulant and tonic, useful in colds, febrile attacks, 
debility, and in all cases the same as IStay weed. 

Pipsisseiva — Winter Green. — The pipsissewa is a'stimulant, diuretic, as- 
tringent, and tonic; useful in scrofulas, tumors, cancers, and kidney com- 
plaints. The tea is also useful as a wash for ill-conditioned sores and 
cutaneous eruptions. 

Pejiperynint. — Is a pleasant stimulant, promotes perspiration, and may 
be administered in all cases of colds, paiii in the stomach and bowels, 
flatulency, headache, nausea, etc. 

Spearmint. — Is a tonic and stimulant, and is employed to stop vomit- 
ing, and allay nausea. It is an excellent carminative, induces perspir- 
ation, warms and invigorates the system, and quiets pain in the stomach 
and bowels. 

Ginseng. — The root is tonic and nervine. It is useful in all cases of 
debility, loss of appetite, neuralgic affections, and dyspepsia. Dose — half 
a tea-spoonful of the powdered root, more or less. 

Beth Root. — Beth root is astringent, tonic, and antiseptic, may be em- 
ployed in all cases of hemorrhage, leucorrhea, asthma, and coughs. Dose 
— half a tea-spoonful. 

Scullcap. — Scullcap is a most valuable nervine, and antispasmodic. It 
may be used successfully in delirium tremens, fits, locked-jaw, St. Vitus' 
dance, and all nervous diseases. It is also recommended in hydropho- 
bia. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered herb. 

Ladies Slipper. — Is a valuable nervine, quiets nervous excitement, 
eases pain, and induces sleep. It may be used freely in all nervous and 
hysterical afiections, without incurring the least danger, or producing 
unpleasant consequences. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered root 
may be taken three or four times a day, or until relief is obtained. 

Slippery Elm. — The inner bark is mucilaginous and nutritious, and 
may be employed in all cases of inflammation, debility, diseases of the 
urinary passages, diarrhea,' dysentery, pleurisy, and sore throat. 

Pennyroyal. — Is an agreeable stimulant, and, if convenient, should 
always be used in giving an emetic. It promotes perspiration, and 
facilitates the operation of lobelia. It is also a valuable carminative, 
and may be freely used in all slight attacks of disease. 

Gani Myrrh. — It is astringent, antiseptic, and tonic. It is useful in 
pulmonary complaints, loss of appetite, sore mouth, and offensive breath. 
It is also useful in dj^sentery and diarrhea, and to cleanse offensive ulcers, 
putrid and ill-conditioned sores. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the tincture, or- 
fourth of a tea-spoonful of the powder. 

Cayenne. — Is a pure, powerful, and health}^ stimulant, and produces, 
when introduced into the stomach, a sensation of warmth, which diffuses 
itself gradually through the system, but without any narcotic effect. It 
is an excellent remedy in all cases of colds, coughs, flatulency, congestion, 
dyspepsia, etc. It should not be taken in very large doses upon a cold 
or empty stomach, but in small quantities at first, gradually increasing 
the dose. 

Balmony. — It serves as a tonic laxative, and may be used in debility, 
costiveness, dyspepsia, jaundice, coughs, and colds. There are but few 
forms of disease in which this article may not be used to advantage. Dose — 
an even tea-spoonful of the powdered herb. 

Poplar. — The bark is a pleasant tonic, useful in loss of appetite, indi- 
gestion, diarrhea, worms, and headache. It possesses diuretic properties, 
and may be employed in strangury, and all diseases of the urinary pas- 
sages. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark. 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 59 

Unicorn. — The root of this plant is a vnluable tonic, beneficial in all 
female complaints, particularly so in leucorrhea; also in pleurisy, general 
debilitj^, weakness of the digestive organs, and coughs. Dose — from half 
to a tea-spoonful of the powdered root. 

Boneset. — Is laxative, tonic, and expectorant. A decoction of the leaves 
and flowers, taken while warm, and in large quantities, will evacuate 
the stomach in a very gentle and safe manner; administered cold, it acts 
as a tonic and laxative. It is useful in coughs, colds, and pulmonary 
complaints. 

Bayherry. — The bark of bayberry is powerfully astringent, and slightly 
stimulating; useful for cleansing the stomach and bowels from canker, 
scarlatina, dysentery, and diarrhea. A decoction of the bark is also useful 
as a gargle for sore throat, and as a wash for ill-conditioned sores. 

Hemlock Bark. — It is astringent and tonic. Enemas composed of a 
strong tea of this article ma}'- be used with advantage in all cases of 
prolapsus. 

Marsh Rosemary. — The root of the marsh rosemary is astringent and 
tonic, and may be used in all cases where these properties are required. 
A decoction of this is an excellent wash for canker-sores, sore mouth, etc. 
Witch Hazel. — The bark and leaves are astringent and tonic. May be 
used in all cases of hemorrhage, debility, and for cleansing irritable 
sores. 

Evan Root. — Evan root is a valuable tonic and astringent; useful for 
diarrhea, dysentery, sore mouth, debility, etc. 

White Pond-Lily. — The root of this plant is a pleasant astringent 
useful in bowel complaints, and as a gargle for putrid and ulcerated sore 
throat. Combined with slippery-elm, it forms an excellent poultice for 
cleansing old sores, ulcers, etc. 

Gold Thread. — It is astringent and tonic, useful as a gargle for sore 
throat, and is much used for that purpose. It may also be employed in 
debility and loss of appetite, and in all cases where golden seal and poplar 
bark are recommended. 

Sumach. — The leaves and berries are stimulant, astringent, and tonic, 
beneficial in d^-sentery, stranguary, sore mouth, also for washing offensive 
Bores and ring-worms. 

Golden Seal. — It is a laxative and tonic, and an excellent remedy in 
costiveness, loss of appetite, jaundice, debility, liver complaint, and faint- 
ness at the stomach. Taken in doses of an even tea-spoonful, it is effica- 
cious in relieving unpleasant sensations occasioned by a hearty meal. 

Barberry. — The bark is tonic and laxative, useful in jaundice, loss of 
appetite, weakness of the digestive organs, and in all cases where golden 
seal is recommended. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark. 

Hoarhound. — The root is stimulant and tonic, useful in coughs, colds, 
asthmatic afi'ections, and in pulmonary diseases. It may be prepared with 
honey or molasses. 

Fir Balsam. — Is a valuable expectorant and tonic, beneficial in coughs, 
colds, and all affections of the lungs. 

Yarrow. — This plant is a valuable stimulant, an excellent remedy in all 
cases of female weakness, colic, and intermittent fevers. A decoction of 
the herb is also used as a wash for sores, salt-rheum, and piles. 

Golden Rod. — Is aromatic and slightly stimulant; is used for quieting 
pains in the stomach and bowels, flatulency, and for scenting other 
medicines. 

Cleavers. — Are useful on account of their diuretic properties ; also in 
inflammation of the kidneys and urinary obstructions. 



60 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 

Dandelioyi.—l?, tonic and diuretic, an excellent corrector of the bile, and 
an invaluable remedy in hepatic diseases. 

ASffssa/ras.— Steeped in water, it is an excellent wash for all kinds of 
humors. 

CVi^ra/*.— Valuable for injections. In fevers, it promotes perspiration 
■without raising the heat of the body. 

^^,7e.— Useful in fevers, and for worms in children. Good substitute 
for tea. 

Comfrey.—Thxs is mucilaginous ; valuable in coughs and all consump- 
tive complaints. 

Safron.—Mnka^ a valuable tea for children afflicted with the measles, 
chicken-pox, and all eruptive diseases. 

Coltsfoot. — A tea of this is good for hoarseness. 

Valerian. ~(^ood in all nervous complaints ; a swallow or two taken 
occasionally will produce the same eflect as paregoric, and is every way 
preferable to it. 

Wild Cherry-Tree Bark.— A tea made of this is said to have cured con- 
sumption, if taken in season. 

PROF, A. CURTIS, M. D., 

No. 139 Foiartli Street, between. Race and. Elm, 
CIjVCIJN^]XA.TI, OHIO, 

Is prepared to treat all forms of disease, medical and surgical, in the best 
manner. His practioe is purely ph^^siological, embracing hygienic agencies, 
as pure air, proper food, and exercise ; and water, caloric, electricity, and 
galvanism, in their appropriate applications, as in baths, simple, medicated, 
and chemical. 

He uses innocent and powerful medicines, rejecting all poisonous sub- 
stances ; and all violence, as bleeding and blistering. In an extensive 
practice for thirty years, he has not lost a case of scarlet fever, measles, nor 
small-pox, summer complaint nor dysentery, nor one of typhoid, remittent, 
intermittent, continued, nor bilious fever ; not a single case in parturition, 
nor in consequence of it, in which he was the only physician. He has 
cured, in a few minutes, without medicines or pain, many a severe case of 
disease, both acute and chronic, some of years duration ; and, by the aid 
of magnetism and chloroform, performed severe surgical operations without 
producing sutiering or injury. 

He has lately performed, with complete success, some of the most difficult 
and dangerous operations. Among them are the removal of a diseased 
femur, a cancerous breast, a fungus hematodes or melanosis, from the 
cavity of the eye, and an ovarian tumor which weighed over thirty pounds. 
In thirty years practice he has never lost a surgical patient. 

He does not promise to cure every case, but believes that he can cure 
all that are curable by any other practice or physician. Examinations free j 
charges for prescriptions moderate. 

Having able assistants at home, he can visit important cases at a dis- 
tance, where rail-cars can carry him without much loss of time. But it is 
better, if they can, that they come to him, as he desires to attend as much 
as possible to his friends in the city. 

He receives students, male and female, and teaches them the true science 
of life, and the divine art of preventing and curing disease. The Regular 
Lectures in the Physio-Medical Collegk will commence on the 20th of 
October, and continue sixteen weeks. 

Dr. Curtis's Medical Books for sale as above. 



MECHANICS' DEPARTMENT. 



Painting Glass Transparencies. — Provide a small muller and a piece of 
thick ground glass, five or six inches square, to grind the colors on ; also 
a small pallet knife, and a few bottles to put the colors in. For a red 
color get a little scarlet lake, and for blue a little Prussian blue. For 
green use purified verdigris ground with a quarter of its bulk of gamboge, 
and for brown use burnt umber, and for black, burnt sienna black. These 
colors are truly transparent. Ilaving all these colors ready, grind them 
in the balsam of fir mixed with half its bulk of turpentine; mastic var- 
nish will do very well, but the balsam is the most beautiful. To coat the 
glass black round the painting, dissolve asphaltum in turpentine, and mix 
with lampblack. When the colors are all ground they must be put in 
separate bottles and sealed, and when they are to be used, a little bit is 
taken out at once on a piece of glass, just as much as is needed at once, 
as it quickly dries. If the color is too thick, it must be diluted with tur- 
pentine. To paint glass sliders, the sul^ject must be designed on paper, 
and the paper put under the glass, and the glass painted above it accord- 
ing to the design of the paper underneath. 

Varnishfor Wood Patterns. — The most simple varnish, combined with 
adaptation, is the following: One quart of alcohol and a quarter of a 
pound of gum shellac. This put into a bottle, and when wanted for use, 
mix up with a little lampblack to about the thickness of cream, and var- 
nish the pattern over, rubbing it into the grain of the wood, until a 
slight friction produces a polish. This varnish makes a smooth surface 
on the pattern, rendering it more easily drawn from the sand, and it fills 
up all pores, or worm-hules, tliat may be in the wood; consequently, a 
cleaner and smoother casting is produced. 

Crystal Varnish. — First, genuine pale Canada balsam and rectified oil 
of turpentine, equal parts; mix, place the bottle in warm water, agitate 
well, set it aside in a moderately warm place, and in a week pour olf the 
clear. Used for maps, prints, drawings, and other articles on paper, and 
also to prepare tracing paper, and to transfer engraving. Second, mas- 
tic, three ounces; alcohol, one pint, dissolved. Used to fix pencil draw- 
ings. 

EtcJiing Varnish. — First, white wax, two ounces; black and Burgundy- 
pitch, of each half an ounce; melt together, add, by degrees, powdered 
asphaltum, two ounces, and boil till a drop taken out on a plate will break, 
when cold, by being bent double two or three times between the fingers; 
it must then be poured into warm water, and made into small balls for 
use. Second, linseed oil and mastic, of each four ounces; melt together. 
Third, soft linseed oil, four ounces; gum benzoin and white wax, of each 
half an ounce; boil to two-thirds. 

Flexible Varnish. — First, India-rubber in shaving, one ounce; mineral 
naphtha, two pounds; digest, at a gentle heat, in a close vessel, till dis- 
solved, and strain. Second, India-rubber, one ounce; drying oil, one quart; 
dissolve by as little heat as possible, employing constant stirring; then 
strain. Third, linseed oil, one gallon ; dried white copperas and sugar of 
lead, each three ounces; litharge, eight ounces; boil, with constant agita- 



C2 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 

lion, till it strings well; then cool slowly, and decant the Ciear. If too 
thick, thin it with quick-drying linseed oil. These are used for balloons, 
gas-bags, &c. 

Varuish for Iro?i Work. — The beautiful, glossy, black varnish for iron 
work may be made by fusing one pound of amber in an iron vessel, and 
adding, while hot, one quart of boiled linseed oil and three ounces each 
of dark rosin and asphaltum, in powder. "When the whole is thoroughly 
incorporated, take it oti'; and, when cool, add about one pint of turpen- 
tine. Several coats of this varnish arc put on, and the articles are dried, 
after each application, in a warm oven. 

Another. — To make a good black varnish for ironwork, take eight pounds 
of asphaltum, and fuse it in an iron kettle, then add live gallons of boiled 
linseed oil, one pound of litharge, half a pound of sulphate of zinc (add these 
slowly, or it will fume over), and boil them for about three hours. Now 
add one and a-half pounds of dark gum-amber, and boil for two hours 
longer, or until the jnass will become quite thick, when cool; after which, 
it should be thinned with turpentine to due consistency. 

Varnish for Iron Castings. — Heavy petroleum, mixed with coal tar, and 
applied warm, is an excellent varnish for iron castings. 

Black Jaimnning. — Black grounds for japan may be made by mixing 
ivory black with shellac varnish; or, for coarse work, lampblack, and the 
top coating of common seedlac varnish. A common black japan may be 
made by painting a piece of work with drying oil, and putting said work 
into an oven, not too hot; then gradually raising the heat, and keeping 
it up for a long time, so as not to burn the oil and make it blister. 

Torioise-Shett Japan. — This varnish is prepared by taking of good linseed 
oil one gallon, and of umber, half a pound, and boiling them together un- 
til the oil becomes very brown and thick, when they are sti-ained through 
a cloth, and boiled again until the composition is about the consistence 
of pitch, when it is lit for use. Having prepared this varnish, clean well 
the vessel that is to be varnished (japanned), and then lay vermilion, 
mixed with shellac varnish, or with drying oil diluted with good turpen- 
tine, very thinly on the places intended to imitate the clear parts of the 
tortoise-shell. When the vermillion is dry, brush over the whole with the 
above umber varnish, diluted to a due consistence with turpentine; and 
when it is set and firm, it must be put into an oven, and undergo a strong 
heat for a long time. This is the ground for those beautiful tea-boards 
which are so much admired. The work is all the better to be finished in 
an annealing oven. 

Painting Japan Wo7^k. — The colors to be painted are tempered generally 
in oil, which should have at least one- fourth of its weight of gum sanderac, 
or mastic, dissolved in it, and it should be well diluted with turpentine, 
that the colors may be laid on thin and evenly. In some instances it does 
well to put on water-colors, or grounds of gold, which a skillful hand can 
do, and manage so as to make the work as if it were embossed. These 
water-colors are best prepared by means of isinglass size, mixed with 
honey, or sugar-candy. These colors, when laid on, must receive a num- 
ber of upper coats of the varnish above described. 

Transparent Fainting on Linen. — Very fine muslin is the best material 
for painting upon ; and before you begin to paint, a straining-frarne must 
be made, of beech or hard wood. It should consist of two upright bars 
mortised at each end, with holes, into which top and bottom cross-bars, 
tenoned at the sides, can slide, much after the san:ic pattern hs the ordi- 
nary embroidery frame; but it is rarely required hirger than suitable for 
a window blind. Along the inner edge of the frame a strip of webbing 



THE house-keeper's guide. 63 

is pe.'manently nailed, and to this the muslin must be sewed before it is 
stretched. Having stretched the muslin, it is ready for the first prepara- 
tion, which is sizing. The best size is that made from parchment cut- 
tings; you nmst have a pipkin, to hold about a quart of water. Having 
cut up the parchment into small sti'ips, fill the pipkin with water, and 
put them to simmer, but not to boil. When this operation has gone on for 
a couple of hours, you will have sufficient size, which should be allowed 
to cool, and then you will have a clear, transparent jelly. Hemove the 
dregs from it, and boil in a clean pipkin as much as you will require; but 
rect)llect the more careful you are in the preparation of the size, the bet- 
ter will be the result of your workmanship. 

After the muslin is sized, it will be found to relax in the frame, and 
has, therefore, to be again fully tightened. A second, or even a third 
coating of size is to be applied, when the former is dry, and the muslin 
again stretched, if it slackens. After a couple of days or more, when the 
size is quite hard, it must be rubbed smooth with pumice-stone ; a smooth 
face may be obtained to the pumice-stone by grinding it on a stone flag 
with water. This operation of smoothing the size is very necessary, as 
the colors take better to the material than when this process is omitted. 
The muslin being now in a fit state to receive the paint, the subject of the 
design must be drawn upon it. In order to secure accuracy — for no 
" rubbing out" can be effected on muslin — it is a common practice to draw 
the intended outline first upon cartridge-paper, with a bold stroke, in ink, 
so that when fixed to the back of the muslin with threads, it can be seen 
through the fabric, and the picture be traced out on the muslin with a 
dark pencil. Another way of tracing a design is to employ the pounce- 
bag and a perforated pattern ; thus, for instance, take a natural leaf, such 
as that of the vine or ivy, lay it upon a strip of cartridge-paper; then, 
perforate the paper all round the leaf with a pointer, or a thick needle 
fastened into a handle. On removing the leaf, a few perforation ma}'- be 
made, to indicate the arteries. If several strips of paper are placed under 
the leaf at once, repetitions of the designs can be readily obtained. 

The best pounce-bag is made of a couple of folds of muslin tied up like 
a laundress's blue-bag, and filled with a finely-powdered charcoal. The 
perforated paper patterns being placed on the muslin, they are then 
pounced over, when the charcoal dust falls through the holes on to the 
muslin, and thus transfers the design of the leaf. If a border of leaves 
is required, it is only necessary to repeat the same leaf, but placed in dif- 
ferent positions — now left, now right, then overlapping each other. The 
same may also be done with a butterfly, or any similar object. Having 
perforated the design of a bird on the wing, it will not look like the same, 
if its position is considerably altered, now flying up in mid-air, now alight- 
ing on to a bough, then descending; the subsequent coloriiigof the leaves, 
birds, and butterflies being also modified, changes their general appear- 
ance. 

Transferring Prints to Glass, Wood, ^c. — When it is desired to transfer 
a steel, copper, or lithographic print to glass, the first operation is to coat 
the glass with dilute lac, or clear copal varnish. The print is then moist- 
ened with water, and while the varnish remains sticky, the paper is placed 
on the glass with the print side upon the varnish ; it is then pressed gently, 
to make it adhere. Several folds of white paper are now placed upon the 
back of the print, also a board, with a light weight thereon, to keep the 
print and varnish in contact till both are dry. After this the paper is 
moistened, and rubbed ofl" gently with the fingers, when the ink com- 
posing the print is left adhering to the glass. The several parts of the 



C4r THE HOUyE-KEEPER"s GUIDE. 

print may then be painted with appropriate colors, and then finished with 
a ground-coat over all. Prints may be transferred to wood in the same 
manner. The common mode of transferring prints to wooden blocks, for 
engraving, is to immerse a print for a short period in a solution of pot- 
ash, then place it upon the block and press it. The potash softens the 
ink on the paper of the print, and when placed upon the block of wood 
and pressed, the impression is made in the same manner as printing 
in the usual way. Prints are also transferred thus to stones for litho- 
graphic printing; also to plates of zinc for printing in a lithographic 
j)ress. 

Many very elegant designs can be perforated by folding the paper once, 
twice, or four times; thus, whatever pattern is perforated will then be 
repeated through the other sections. In this way corners and centers are 
formed. The design, thus placed in outline on the linen, is now to be 
colored. We, of course, presume that persons employing themselves thus 
will have some knowledge of art, and it is now that their taste can be 
displayed. The rules which govern art are applicable to transparent 
painting, but our observations are limited to the specialities required to 
put it in practice. A fine sponge forms a good tool to lay on the tints for 
clouds and sky, or distant hills, and coarse honey-comb sponge does well 
fur luxurious foliage, rocks, &c. Plat hog"s-hair brushes, the same as are 
used for oil-painting, do admirably for this work. Varnish colors, tem- 
pered with japanners' gold size and turpentine, are the best; the paints 
sold in tubes will be found convenient — copal varnish and pale-drying 
oil being used as a vehicle. 

Young persons who can draw, and are in want of a little occupation, 
either for amusement or as a means of income, can now, from these hints, 
turn their attention to transparent painting; and there are too many ugly 
back windows to hide in every town for them to fear any lack of employ- 
ment. 

Colors for Si aviping Muslin for Embroidery. — Lamp-black, mixed with 
a solution of gum arable or starch, will make a very good composition for 
stamping white muslin for embroidery. Prussian-blue, ground to powder, 
and mixed with a little boiled starch, answers for stamping blue on white 
muslin. All colors used for stamping should be of such a nature that they 
will wash out easily with soap and water; hence those fast colors, which 
are used to print on calicoes, are unsuitable. For stamping on a black 
ground — such as a piece of black cloth or velvet, common pipe-clay, mixed 
with a little starch, makes a white stamping composition. Lamp-black, 
mixed with resin in a molten condition, then cooled and ground to pow- 
dei', with a little water, makes a good black for stamping. 

Collodion Formulce. — The following two receipts are from the Photo- 
graj)}dc News: Those who are in the habit of experimenting in the prep- 
aration of collodion for photographs will, probably, like to try the follow- 
ing formula, communicated by M. Jeanrenaud to the Moniteur de la Pho* 
iiHjrwpJde. To counterbalance the drawback of complexity which seems 
to characterize it, is the strong recommendation of the author, who pos- 
sesses a high reputation. It is stated to give delicate results, to be very 
rapid and durable, improving rather than deteriorating with age. Here 
is the formula: Soluble cotton, 8 parts; pure ether, 800 parts; alcohol 
(sp. gr. 830), 250 parts; iodide of cadmium, 9 parts. Dissolve, and add 
to 35 ounces of collodion 25 of pure bromine. To 3 ounces of the collo- 
dion then add 12 drops of strong liquid ammonia. A deposit is thrown 
down, which may be redissolved by adding a few drops of glacial acetic 
acid. The 3 ounces are then added to the remainder of 35 ounces, and tho 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 65 

whole left to settle for a fortnight. If it retains a straw color, it is fit for 
use; if it be colorless, add a few drops of bromine. 

M. Jeanrenaud also gives a formula for dry collodion, as follows : Take 
ordinary collodion, and add to it 5 per cent, of a solution of ether, satu- 
rated with yellow amber; the sensitizing bath consists of from 7 to 8 per 
cent, of nitrate of silver, and 2 per cent, of glacial acetic acid; the plate 
is then washed in four or five waters. The development may be eflected 
either by the ordinary bath of sulphate of iron, or with pyrogallic acid. 
When the plates are largo, it is necessary to fix the film around the edges 
by means of some varnish, either with alcohol or chloroform. M. Jean- 
renaud found plates, so prepared, as sensitive, after the lapse of a muntli, 
as when first fixed. The time required is about double that of the wet 
process, and. for landscapes, varies from three to seven minutes, accord- 
ing to the light and the season. 

Dammara Var7iish. — "Gum Dammara," as it is called, is a resin, not a 
gum. It is employed for making varnish, by dissolving it in turpentine. 
The resin should be first vrell-dried, for, if it contains any moisture, it will 
tend to make the varnish opaque. A common way to prepare it is to boil 
the resin in the turpentine in an open vessel ; but if the resin is thoroughly 
dried, it will dissolve slowly in cold turpentine, and form a clear "var- 
nish. 

A good way to prepare it, on a large scale, is to use an enameled cast- 
iron vessel, capable of containing about fifty pounds, for making twenly- 
five pounds of the varnish. The dammara resin is put into the vessel in 
a solid state, the proper quantity of turpentine (five parts to four parts 
of resin) is then poured in, and ihe whole put upon the fire. As soon as 
the boiling begins, the water, originally included in the resin, is dissi- 
pated in the form of vapor, and the resin acquires a softer consistence. 
When all the water is expelled, and the varnish boils quietly, the solution 
is completed, and the vessel may be removed from the fire. As long as 
traces of water exist in the varnish, its boiling is attended with a bub- 
bling movement; but as soon as all the water is got rid of, the varnish 
boils quite quietly. When the varnish is prepared, it is poured through 
a fine wire-sieve, and then allowed to settle sutficiently. If it be desired 
to give the varnish a tougher consistence, two or three per cent, of good 
bleached linseed oil (not boiled with oxide of lead) must be added to it 
befoi-e boiling. This communicates great toughness to it. 

Alloy jor Journal Boxes. — Take seven and a-half pounds of pure copper 
and melt it in a crucible; then gradually add, in small pieces, ninety-two 
and a half pounds of zinc; when this is melted, and the two metals thor- 
oughly mixed, the alloy is to be run into molds for journal boxes. A 
patent was granted May 1, 1855, for this alloy, to Thomas Forth, of Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio. 

Babbitt Metal. — Take twenty-four pounds of copper, and melt it first in 
a crucible; then add, gradually, twenty-four parts of pure tin and eight 
of antimony, Great care must be exercised in adding the tin to the cop- 
per. This composition is rendered softer by the use of a greater quantity 
of tin. It is first run into ingots, then melted and cast, to form the jour- 
nal boxes, &c. 

Fine Polishing Powder. — Professor Yogel, of England, states, that the 
finest powder for polishing optical glasses and fine metals, is made by 
calcining the oxalate of iron. It is superior to the common polishing- 
powder for glass, made of lixivated colcuthar. 

Consolidating Cast-steel. — Mr. J. M. Kowan, of Glasgow, proposes to 
consolidate cast-steel, or metal produced by the pneumatic process, by com- 



66 THE house-keepee's guide. 

pressing it while still liquid, or nearly so, whereby it is rendered much 
better adapted for subsequent processes. 

A harmless green^ for coloring confectionery, may be made as follows : 
Take thirty-two parts of safiron, and infuse it in seven parts of water, to 
which add twenty-six parts of the carmine of indigo in fifteen parts of 
water. The yellow satFron and blue indigo, when mixed, form a beauti- 
ful green color, which wull combine with sugar solutions, 

A most excellent Furniture Paste is made, by dissolving one part resin 
and one pai't beeswax in two parts of benzine. 

Refined Glycerine is a very suitable lubricator for clock-work. It does 
not freeze in cold weather. 

To Clean Brass. — Rub the surface of the metal with rotten-stone and 
sweet oil, then rub off with a piece of cotton flannel and polish with soft 
leather. A solution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished brass, with a 
cotton rag, soon removes the tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The 
acid must be washed ofl' with water, and the brass rubbed with whitening 
in powder, and soft leather. "When acids are employed for removing the 
oxide from brass, the metal must be thoroughly washed afterwards, or it 
will tarnish in a few minutes after being exposed to the air. A mixture 
of muriatic acid and alum dissolved in water imparts a golden color to 
brass articles that are steeped in it for a few seconds. 

Cleaning Tinware. — Acids should never be employed to clean tinware, 
because they attack the metal, and remove it from 'the iron of which it 
forms a thin coat. We refer to articles made of tin plate, wdiich consists 
of iron covered with tin. Rub the article first with rotten-stone and sweet 
oil, the same as recommended for brass, then finish with whitening and a 
piece of soft leather. Articles made wholly of tin should be cleaned in 
the same manner. In a dry atmosphere, planished tinware will remain 
bright for a long period, but will soon become tarnished in moist air. 

Cleaning Silver-plated Articles. — White metal articles electro-plated 
with silver are now very common, and great care is required in cleaning 
them when tarnished. No powder must be used for this purpos.e which 
has the least grit in it, or the silver will be scratched and soon worn off. 
The finest impalpable whitening should be employed, with a little soft, 
water, in removing the tarnish. They are next washed with rain water, 
dried and polished with a piece of soft leather, some rouge powder, or fine 
whitening, then finally rubbed down with the hand, which forms a most 
excellent polisher. 

Black on G-im-Barrels. — The following mode of producing a black 
coating on gun-barrels is taken from Mr. Wells's "Annual of Scientific 
Discovery" for the present year: First, take chloride of mercury and 
sal ammoniac; second, perchloride of iron, sulphate of copper, nitric acid, 
alcohol and water; third, perchloride and proto-chloride of iron, alcohol 
and water; fourth, weak solution of the sulphide of potassium. These 
solutions are successively applied, each becoming dry before the other is 
used. No. 3 is applied twice, and a bath of boiling water follows Nos. 3 
and 4. The .shade of color is fixed by active friction, with a pad of woolen 
cloth, and a little oil. The shade thus obtained is a beautiful black, of 
uniform appearance. This process is used in the manufacture of arms at 
St. Etienne, .France. We regret that the proportions of the difl'erent 
ingredients are not given. Several of our gunsmiths have made many 
inquiries as to the mode of producing the blue-black coating on the Whit- 
worth and other English rifles. Perhaps the above solution will effect 
the object. The alcohol is used to make the application dry quickly. 
The perchloride of iron and the sulphate of copper in No. 2 diould bg 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 67 

used only in a moderately strong sc ution, and only abont It) pet* cent, of 
nitric acid added to the water. T 'e hope that our gunsmiths will meefc 
with success in usijag these soluti. ns. No. 2, applied in three or four 
coats, will form the common brow i coating for gun-barrels. After the 
last application has become dry, it is rubbed with a wire scratch brush, 
washed with warm water, then dr ed, and afterward rubbed down with 
a composition of beeswax dissolved in turpentine. 

Aluminuni Bronze. — Experiment , have been made at the Eoyal Gun 
Factory, Woolwich, England, by 1 .r. J. Ajiderson, to test the compara- 
tive strength, &c., of aluminum Ironze. Its average breaking tensile 
strength was found to be 73,185 Its per square inch, while that of com- 
mon gun metal is but 35,040 lbs. L.ts composition is 90 per cent, of cop- 
per, 10 per cent, of aluminum. The purest copper that can be obtained, 
such as that of Lake Superior, is tie best to employ. It requires to be 
remelted three times before it becomes fit for practical purposes. The 
specific gravity of this alloy is sai^t to be about that of cast-iron. It is 
far more rigid than brass or comm n gun-metal. It produces good cast- 
ings; it can be drawn into tubes, -oiled into sheets, and hammered like 
iron, and it is also capable of bein;, soldered with brass. 

Bronzing Metals. — The production of ditferent colors on the surface of 
metals, such as works of fine art, » ;c., is called bronzing, ^[ere surface- 
coloring is executed with metallic powders mixed and applied with a 
varnish. But the most perfect bi )nzing is produced by chemical action 
on the metal itself — its own surfaco being thus made to form the bronze 
color. Dr. Ure says, respecting his art: "Coins and metals may be 
handsomely bronzed as follows: 2 parts of verdigris and 1 part of sal- 
ammoniac are to be dissolved in vinegar; the solution is to be boiled, 
skimmed, and diluted with water, all it has only a weak metallic taste, 
and, upon further dilution, lets fall no white precipitate. This solution is 
now made to boil briskly, and is p.nired upon the objects to be bronzed. 
These objects must have been prev ously cleaned and made perfectly free 
from grease, and set in a copper pa a. This pan, with the articles now in 
it, is put on a fire, and the soluti >n made to boil for some time. The 
articles, if made of copper, will ac [uire an agreeable reddish-brown hue, 
without losing their luster; but ii they are boiled too long, the coat of 
oxide upon them becomes too thick, and looks scaly and dull ; and if the 
solution is too strong, the copper i ecomes covered with a white powder, 
which becomes green on exposure to the air. The pieces thus bronzed 
must be washed well in warm soft water, and than carefully dried, or they 
will turn green. The antique appearance is given with a solution of 
three-quarters of an ounce of sal ammoniac and a drachm and a half of 
binoxalate of potash (salt of sorrc ) dissolved in a quart of vinegar. It 
is applied with a soft rag to the su face of the metal, then allowed to dry. 
Several applications are thus naadc until a coating of sutficient thickness 
is obtained. Copper acquires a brc wn color by rubbing it with a solution 
of the common liver of sulphur, o ■ sulphuret of potash. 

The Chmese are said to bronze heir copper vessels by taking 2 ounces 
of verdigris, 2 ounces of cinnam n, 5 ounces of sal ammoniac, and 5 
ounces of alum, all in powder, m. king these into a paste with vinegar, 
and spreading it upon the surfac ■ of the article, which should be pre- 
viously brightened. The article is hen held over a fire, till it become uni- 
formly heated, then it is cooled, w shed, and dried. It thus receives one, 
two, or several of such coats, until the desired color is obtained. An ad- 
dition of sulphate of copper to he mixture makes the color chesnut- 
brown. 



68 THE house-keeper's guide. 

A good method of bronzing copper articles, such as tea-urns, to prevent 
them tarnishing, is described in most all the best treatises on chemistry. 
It is as follows: The copper is first cleaned, then brushed over with per- 
oxide of iron (generally colcothar) made into a paste with water or with 
a dilute solution of the acetate of copper. The article is then placed in 
a muffle in a furnace, and heated cautiously for some time, then taken out 
and cooled. Upon brushing ofl' the oxide, the surface underneath is found 
to have acquired the desired hue. 

Another method of bronzing copper is to brush it over with a paste of 
black lead, place it over a clear fire till moderately heated, then brush it 
ot}", A very beautiful bronze is thus produced. The surface of the cop- 
per must be perfectly bright when the black lead is applied. A thin film 
of wax or tallow applied to copper, and the article placed on a clear fire 
until the wax or grease begins to smoke, produces a bronzed surface. In 
all these operations great care is necessary in managing the articles prop- 
erly when subjecting them to the action of heat. 

The following is a receipt which we have been told will produce a 
beautiful dark bronze on brass: To 1 pound of muriatic acid add 6 
ounces of the peroxide of iron and 3 ounces of yellow arsenic; mix these 
together and let the solution stand for about two days, shaking it occasion- 
ally. The brass article, perfectly free from dirt and grease, is now to be 
immersed in it, and allowed to stand for about three hours, when it turns 
perfectly black. It is then lifted out, and washed well in soft water, and 
dried in sawdust. After this it is coated with a paste of black lead used 
for iron stoves, and when dry, it is polished with a brush. After this it 
may receive a thin coat of lac-varnish. 

Dull Black Color on Brass. — The Practical Mechanic's Journal (Glas- 
gow) states that the dull black so frequently employed for brass optical 
instruments, maj be produced as follows: First rub the brass with trip- 
oli, then wash it with a dilute solution of a mixture of one part of neutral 
nitrate of tin, and two parts of chloride of gold; allow the brass to remain 
without wiping for about ten minutes, after which wipe it ofl" with a wet 
cloth. If there has been an excess of acid, the surface will have assumed 
a dull black appearance. The neutral nitrate of tin is prepared by de- 
composing perchloride of tin in ammonia, and dissolving the precipitated 
oxide thus obtained in nitric acid. 

Sto/ming Marble. — A solution of the nitrate of silver stains marble 
black ; a solution of verdigris applied hot stains it green : a concentrated 
solution of carmine applied hot stains it red ; orpiment dissolved in am- 
monia stains it yellow; the sulphate of copper, blue; and a solution of 
magenta, purple. The marble should be warmed before any of these 
solutions are applied, so as to open its pores, and enable it to absorb more 
of the coloring matter. Marble may be stained according to beautiful 
designs with such colors. This art was more extensively practiced in 
Italy during former ages than it is at present. 

Hardening Wood for Pidleijs.— After a wooden pulley is turned and 
rubbed smooth, boil it for about eight minutes in olive oil, then allow it 
to dry, after which it will ultimately become almost as hard as copper. 

Case-hardening Iron. — The hardness and polish of steel may be united, 
in a certain degree, with the firmness and cheapness of malleable iron, by 
case-hardening ; it is a superficial conversion of iron into steel. 

The articles intended to be case-hardened, being previously finished, 
with the exception of polishing, are stratified with animal carbon, and tho 
box containing them luted with equal parts of sand and clay. They are 
then placed in the fire, and kept at a light, red heat for half an hour, 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 69 

when the contents of the box are emptied into water. Delicate articles 
ma}' be preserved by a saturated solution of common salt, with any- 
vegetable mucilage, to give it a pulpy consistence. The animal carbon is 
nothing more than any animal matter — such as horns, hoofs, skins, or 
leather — sufficiently burned to admit of being reduced to powder. The 
box is commonly made of iron; but the use of it, for occasional case-har' 
dening upon a small scale, may easily be dispensed with, as it will answer 
the same end to envelop the articles with the composition above directed 
to be used as a lute; dry it, gradually, before it is exposed to a red heat, 
otherwise it will probably crack. The depth of the steel, induced by case- 
hardening, will vary with the time the operation is continued. 

A very speedy and most excellent method of case-hardening is effected 
by reducing some of the prussiate of potash to powder, and making it into 
paste, rubbing it over the finished iron while it is at a red heat, and then 
putting it in the fire again, and plunging it into water when the iron is 
at a biood-red heat. Another method consists in covering the polished 
iron with a paste of the prussiate of potash and flour, allowing it to dry, 
then placing it in a clear tire until it becomes red hot, when it is plunged 
into cold water. This may be repeated, to insure a greater depth of hard- 
ening. 

Eiiarneling Cast-iron Vessels. — Eeduce into fine powder and grind to- 
gether nine parts of red lead, six parts of flint glass, two parts of purified 
pearlash, two parts of purifled saltpeter, and one part of borax. This is 
put into a large crucible about half full, and melted until a clear glass is 
obtained. This glass is then ground with water, and the cast-iron vessel 
is covered with a coating of it, and then heated in a mufiie in a furnace. 
This will melt in a very short time if the furnace is at a good heat, and 
the cast-iron vessel will be covered with a very fine black enamel of a 
shining appearance. To make it tough, it should be put into an anneal- 
ing oven. 

"Another very fine enamel for iron vessels is made as follows : Twelve 
parts of flint glass, four parts of pearlash, four parts of saltpeter, two 
parts of borax, and three parts of the oxide of tin calcined with common 
salt. This is treated the same as described above, and makes a white 
enamel. 

The cast-iron articles to be enameled are scoured bright with sand and 
dilute sulphuric acid, then dried, and the enamel paste put on with a brush, 
or poured on the surface, and the excess dripped ofl'. This paste is. dried 
slowly in the air, and the articles baked in a hot oven until the paste fuses. 
The heat is gradually raised to the melting point. 

Silvering by Powdered Tin. — A quantity of pure tin is melted and 
poured into a box, which is then violently shaken ; the metal assumes, 
when cold, the form of a very fine gray powder. This is sifted, to separ- 
ate any coarse particles, and is mixed with melted glue. When it is to 
be applied, it should be reduced, by the addition of water, to the consis- 
tence of thin cream, and is laid on with a soft brush, like paint. It ap- 
pears, when dr}', like a coat of gray water color; but when it is gone over 
with an agate brusher, it exhibits a bright surface of polished tin. If the 
glue is too strong, the burnisher has no effect; and if too weak, the tin 
crumbles off' under the burnisher. A coating of white or gold-colored oil 
varnish, or lacquer, is immediately laid over it, according as it may be in- 
tended to imitate silvering or gilding. This kind of gilding is often used 
for covering wood, leather, iron, or other articles in constant wear. It is 
very ornamental. 

Composiiion for WeUl'mg Cisf-sieeL — Take ten part' of boi'ax iind ono 



70 THE house-keeper's guide. 

part of sal ammoniac; grind them together and fuse them in a metal-pot 
over a clear fire, taking care to continue the heat until all spume has dis- 
appeared from the surface. When the liquid appears clear, the compusi- 
tion is read}' to be poured out to cool and concrete, when it is ground to 
a fine powder and is ready for use. To use this composition the steel is 
put into the tire and raised to a bright yellow heat ; it is then dipped into 
the welding powder, and again placed into the tire, until it attains tho 
same degree of heat as before, when it is ready to be placed under the 
hammer. 

To Tin Small Arildes. — To tin small articles, prepare a solution of the 
chloride of 7.inc, which is done by feeding muriatic acid with scraps of 
zinc until it will take up no more. A strong glass bottle is the best vessel 
for this purpose. Let the solution settle, and then decant the clear, and 
it is ready for use. Next prepare an iron pot, of such size as will suit 
the purpose for the work to be done. Next put the pot on the fire, and 
put in a sulficient quantity of tin to cover the work. "When the tin is 
melted, put in as much beef or mutton tallow as will cover it about one 
quarter of an inch thick, which must remain in a clear melted state, tak- 
ing care not to let it get on fire. The iron, or any other metal to be tin- 
ned, must be well cleaned, either by filing or scraping, or polishing with 
sand. Let the article to be tinned be then wet with the chloride of zino 
and carefully immersed in the tallow and melted tin, and if the article be 
well cleaned, it will, in a very short time, be fairly and perfectly covered 
with the tin, when it may be taken out. 

To tin a piece of plated metal, say a piece of copper plated on one side 
with silver, prepare a paste, which may be of couimon pipe-clay, and a 
very little wheaten flour wet up with water. Then take a soft brush and 
lay an even coat of the paste over the silver side, and lay it in a warm 
place to dry; then, when dry, it may be immersed in the pot of melted 
tallow and tin, as already described, and the copper side will be covered 
with tin ; but the silver will be protected from the tin by the paste, which 
may be removed by washing in water. 

To Gild Steel. — Make a neutral solution of gold in nitro-muriatic acid 
(aqua regia), and pour into it a quantity of sulphuric ether; the ether 
will take up the gold and float upon the denser acid. The article is 
then to be washed with this auriferous ether (with a hair pencil) ; the 
ether flies oft', and the gold adheres. 

To Silver Brass. — Take one part of chloride of silver (the white pre- 
cipitate which falls when a solution of common salt is poured into a 
solution of nitrate of silver or lunar caustic), three parts of pearlash, 
one of whiting, and one and a half of common salt, or one part of chlo- 
ride of silver, and ten parts of cream of tartar, and rub the brass 
with a moistened piece of cork dipped in the powder. 

Tinning Cast-iroji Articles. — Many articles, such as bridle-bits, small 
nails, &c., are manufactured of tinned cast-iron. Saucepans, goblets, and 
other hollow ironware, are tinned upon their inner surfaces. They are 
first scoured bright with sand and dilute sulphuric or muriatic acid, then 
washed thoroughly in soft water and dried. They are then placed over 
a fire and heated, when grain tin is poured in, and the vessel moved so 
as to roll the molten tin over the surface. Some powdered rosin is 
added, to prevent oxide forming on the surface of the iron. Hollow ves- 
sels of copper and brass are tinned in the inside in the same manner. 

Tinning Iron. — Cast-iron articles to be tinned, are first scoured bright 
with sulphuric acid and sand, then washed in clean warm water, and 
dried. They are afterward coated with zinc, and a coat of tin is put 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 71 

upon the lop of the zinc, by dipping the articles in molten tin. "VV hen 
the tinning operation is iinished, the articles are placed in boiling water, 
and allowed to cool slowly. 

Coloring Gold. — A solution of two ounces of alum, two of saltpeter 
and one of sal ammoniac is used for coloring gold. Another pickle, used 
for coloring gold, consists of nitric acid eight ounces, muriatic acid one 
quart, sal ammoniac two ounces, alum one ounce, and water two gallons. 
The articles of gold are dipped in this for a few seconds, then washed 
thoroughly in pure water, and dried. Pale, brassy gold may be made 
to assume a deep reddish shade by using such a pickle or "dip." 

Preparing Kid Leather. — Yolk of egg is largely used in the prepa- 
ration of kKl leather for gloves, in France, to give it the requisite soft- 
ness and elasticity. The treatment of the skins in this manner is called 
by the French glove-makers nourriture. As a substitute for the yolk 
of Qgg, the brains of certain animals, which, in chemical nature, closely 
resemble the j^olk of egg, have been used. For this purpose the brain 
is mixed in hot water, passed through a sieve, and then made into dough 
with flour and the lye of wood ashes. The glove-leather is also steeped 
for a short period in a weak solution of alum. The Indians of our 
forests employ the brains of deer and buifalo, mixed with a weak lye 
of wood ashes, and, after this, they smoke the skins; the pyroligneous 
acid of the wood in the smoke accomplishes the same object as the alum 
used by the French skin-dressers. Indian-prepared skkis stand the action 
of water in a superior manner to the French kid. Furs dressed in the 
same manner resist the attacks of insects. It is believed that the carbonic 
acid in the smoke is the preservative principle v/hich renders the skins 
tanned by the Indians superior to those tanned with alum and sumac in 
the usual v^aj. The skins are rubbed with the mixture of the brains of 
the animals and the lye, by the squaws; then dried in the open air. Three 
or four such applications are necessary before they are smoked in pits 
covered with the bark of trees. 

Tanning Nets, Sails, a?id Cordage. — The cloth of awnings and sails, also 
of nets and cordage, may be prepared in a simple manner to endure for 
a far greater length of time than is usual with such articles. Take about 
100 pounds of oak or hemlock bark, and boil it in 90 gallons of water, 
until the quantity is reduced to 70 gallons; then take out the bark and 
steep the cloth, sails, or cordage in the clear liquor for about twelve hours; 
then take it out and dry it thoroughly in the atmosphere or in a warm 
apartment. The cloth should be entirely covered with the tan liquor, and 
should lie loose in it, so as not to press the folds too closely together. By 
boiling the cloth or cordage in the tan liquor, it will be ready in a shorter 
period. Sail and awning cloth, so prepared, will xeiht the action of 
damp for years, in situations where unprepared cloth will decay in a few 
months. 

Glazed Leather. — The basis for glazed, or what is called "enameled 
leather," is boiled linseed oil. The oil is prepared by boiling it with metal- 
lic oxides, such as litharge (oxide of lead) and white copperas (sulphate 
of zinc) until it acquires a sirupy consistency. Five gallons of linseed 
oil are boiled with four and a half pounds of white lead and the same 
weight of litharge, until the whole becomes thick like cream. This mix- 
ture is then combined with chalk in powder, or with yellow ocher, is 
spread upon the leather, and worked into the pores with appropriate tools. 
Three thin coats are thus applied, each dried before the other is put on, 
and when the last is perfectly dry, the surface is rubbed down with 
pumice-stone until it is quite smooth. A mixture of the prepared oil, with- 



72 THE house-keeper's guide. 

out ocher or chalk, but rendered black with ivory-black and thinned with 
turpentine, is now put on in one or two thin coats, according to circum- 
stances; then dried. The final coating consists of boiled linsec.'d oil and 
copal varnish, tliinned with turpentine, and colored with lamp-black. The 
apartment in which such leather is dried is maintained at a tem])erature 
ranging from 134 to 170 deg. F. White enameled leather is ]irepared in 
the same manner; but white lead and chalk are exclusivel}' used to thicken, 
the oil. Copal varnish colored with lamp-black, will make very good 
enameled leather, if it is put on in several thin coats, and dried after each 
application. 

Sidphnrized Oil for Wood. — M. Lapparent, inspector of timber for tho 
French navy, states that he prepared a paint for preserving timber, com- 
posed of linseed oil, sulphur, and manganese, which was found very etiec- 
tnal. The flowers of sulphur were stirred into linseed oil in about equal 
quantities, by weight, and about twelve per cent, of the oxide of manga- 
nese added. This was applied to some oak logs, which were buried in a 
manure heap for six months, when the wood was found to be uninjured 
— no fungi being formed upon it. Unprepared wood subjected to the same 
treatment was covered with fungi. 

NHrate of Sihcr. — The nitrate of silver is prepared by adding small 
pieces of pure silver to nitric acid (aquafortis) until efiervescence ceases. 
The solution then formed is clear and caustic. It stains the hair, skin, 
and almost all anj^al substances, black. When boiled for a considei'able 
period, it deposits beautiful clear crystals. It is very poisonous. Stains 
of the nitrate of silver may be removed by the cyanide of potassium. 

Cement for Mending Stearn Boilers. — Mix two parts of finely-powdered 
litharge with one part of very iBne sand, and one part of quicklime, which 
has been allowed to slake spontaneously b}' exposure to the air. This 
mixture may be kept for any length of time without injury. In using it, 
a portion is mixed into paste with linseed oil, or, still better, boiled in 
linseed oil. In this state it must be quickly applied, as it soon becomes hard. 

Cement for Joints of Petroleiitn Stills. — Take six pounds graphite (black 
lead), three pounds of dry slaked lime, eight pounds of the sulphate of 
barytes, and three pounds of boiled linseed oil, and mix them thoroughly 
together. The solid materials must be reduced to fine powder before being 
stirred among the linseed oil. If the above quantity of oil is not sufficient 
for making the cement sufficiently thin, add more, until the proper consis- 
tency is obtained. 

Linseed meal cake, reduced to powder, and mixed with water so as to 
make it into a paste, makes a good lute for stills which are not subjected 
to a temperature above 260 deg. F. 

Marine Glue. — Dissolve four parts of India rubber in thirty-four parts 
of coal-tar naphtha — aiding the solution with h.eat and agitation. The 
.S(»lution is then thick as cream, and it should be added to sixty-four parts 
of powdered shellac, which must be heated in the mixture till all is dis- 
solved. While the mixture is hot, it is poured on plates of metal in sheets 
like leather. It can be kept in that state, and when it is required to be 
used, it is put into a pot and heated till it is soft, and then applied with 
a brush to tho surface to be joined. Two pieces of wood joined with 
this cement can scarcely be sundered; it is ahout as easy to break the 
wood as the joint. 

Cement for Leather Belts. — A strong solution of isinglass is the best 
cement for joining leather bands. IL may be kept from becoming moldy 
by adding to it some whisky and a little of the essential oil of cloves, 
or a little camphorated *ijiiritfi. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 73 

Cement for AttacJdng Oriimney^ts to Wood. — A cement composed of glue, 
chalk, and paper pulp, is sometimes used for making architectural or- 
naments, to be attached to wood. Another cement, used for the same 
purpose is composed of fine sifted chalk, beeswax, and resin. Use equal 
parts of resin and wax, then melt them, and add the chalk until the 
composition attains the proper consistency. A strong solution of glue 
and whiting makes a very good cement for ivory. 

Rubber Cement. — Shreds of India-rubber or gutta-percha dissolved in 
refined turpentine, or good naphtha, will make a good cement for rub- 
ber shoes, shoe soles, etc. 

Boot and Shoe Edge BlacMng. — Bring half a gallon soft water to a 
boil, and put in three-fourths of an ounce extract of logwood, and boil 
three minutes; then remove from the fire, and stir in forty-eight grains 
bichromate of potash, eight grains prussiate of potash, and one hundred 
grains powdered gum arable. 

Varnish Blacking for Harness., etc. — Take one gallon alcohol and put 
in half pound orange shellac, and let stand, tightly corked, till the gum 
is all cut; then put in a tin vessel, which is to be set in boiling water 
over the fire, and add one and a half pounds pine pitch, one gill sweet 
oil, one gill Venice turpentine, and two ounces lamp-black, and heat till 
all are well mixed and thoroughl}^ incorporated ; then remove from the 
fire, and continue stirring till cool. 

Cement for Brick Wails. — Bricks are very porous, and absorb moisture 
freely; hence brick walls, exposed to long and severe rain-storms, fre- 
quently become penetrated, so as to dampen the plastering inside, which 
renders the room damp and unhealthy, besides injuring the wall. The 
best water-tight composition that can be employed for such a purpose, is 
a mixture of hydraulic cement and boiled linseed oil. 

To Gild Iron and Steel with Gold. — Make a solution of eight ounces of 
niter and common salt, with five ounces of crude alum, in a sufficient quan- 
tity of water; dissolve half an ounce of gold, thinly plated and cut; then 
evaporate to dryness. Now dissolve in rectified spirit of wine, or ether, 
which will perfectly abstract the gold. The iron or steel is brushed over 
with this solution, and takes on a fine gilt resembling gold. 

To Silver Iron and other Metals. — Dissolve pure silver in nitric acid 
(aquafortis), and precipitate the silver with common salt; make this pre- 
cipitate into a paste, by adding a little more salt and cream of tartar. 
Apply to the surface of the article to be silvered with a cork. 

To Stain Wood a Mahogany Dark. — Boil half a pound of madder and 
two ounces logwood in one gallon water, and brush the wood well over 
with the hot liquid. "When dry, go over the whole with a solution of two 
drachms of pearlash in one quart of water. 

To Stain Mahogayiy Light. — Brush over the surface with dilute nitrous 
acid, and, when dry, apply the following with a soft brush : Dragon's 
blood, four ounces; common soda, one ounce; spirit of wine, three pints. 
Let it stand in a warm place, shaking frequently ; then strain. Repeat 
the application until the proper color is attained. 

To Stain Maple a Mahogany Color. — Dragon's blood, half ounce; alka- 
net, one-fourth ounce; alaco. one drachm; spirit of wine, sixteen ounces. 
Apply with a sponge or brush. 

Rosewood. — Boil eight ounces of logwood in three pints of water until 
reduced one-half; apply it, boiling hot, two or three times, letting it dry 
between each application. Afterward put in the streaks with a camel- 



14c THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

hair pencil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdigris, in a decoction 
of logwood. 

Ebo7iy. — Wash the wood repeatedly with a solution of sulphate of iron. 
Let it dry ; then apply a hot decoction of logwood and nutgalls for two 
or three times. "When dry, wipe it with a wet sponge; and when it is 
again dried, polish with linseed oil. 

To Stain Wood Red. — Use a strong decoction of Brazil wood and alum. 

To Stain Pine Black. — The pine should be perfectly free from knots fas 
they will not color), and a strong solution of hot logwood rubbed carefully 
all over the board, and then it is allowed to dry. Another coat may be 
given, or a number, according to the shade wanted. After the logwood 
is dried, a solution of copperas should be applied in the same way as the 
logwood. 

Solders. — Soldering is the art of uniting the surfaces of metals together 
by partial fusion, and the insertion of an alloy between the edges, which 
is called solder, it being more fusible than the metals which it unites. 
Solders are distinguished as hard and soft, according to their difficulty of 
fusion. Hard solders usually melt only at a red heat, but soft solders fuse 
at lower temperatures. In applying solder, it is of the utmost importance 
that the edges to be united should be chemically clean — free from oxide; 
and they should be protected from the air by some flux. The common 
fluxes used in soldering are borax, sal ammoniac, and resin. Hard silver 
solder is composed of four parts of fine silver and one of copper, made 
into an alloy, and rolled into sheets. It is quite difticult of fusion. Soft 
silver solder is composed of two parts of silver, one part of brass, and a 
little arsenic, which is added at the last moment in melting them. It will 
be understood that these alloys are commonly run into convenient bars, 
or strips, for use. Silver solders are used for soldering silver work, gold, 
steel, and gun-metal. A neater seam is produced Avith it than with soft 
solder. It is commonly fused with the blow-pipe. A strip of thin silver 
solder is laid on the joint to be closed, the blow-pipe is brought to bear 
upon it, when it melts and runs into the joint, filling it up completely. 
Button solder is employed to solder white metals, such as mixtures of 
copper and tin. It is composed of tin, ten parts; copper, six; brass, four. 
The copper and brass are first melted, then the tin is added. When the 
whole is melted, the mixture is stirred, then poured into cold water and 
granulated, then dried and pulverized, in a mortar, for use. This is called 
granulated solder. If two parts of zinc are added to this alloy, it makes 
a more fusible solder. Eine gold cut into shreds is employed as a solder 
for joining the parts of chemical apparatus made of platinum. Copper, 
cut into shreds, is used as a solder for iron. Hard silver solders are fre- 
quently reduced to powder, and used in that condition. Soft solder con- 
sists of two parts of tin and one of lead. An excellent solder is made of 
equal parts of Banca-tin and pure lead. It is used for soldering tin-plate, 
and, if well made, it never fails. 

Starting Fires under Boilers. — A very mischievous practice exists in 
various parts of the country in reference to starting tires under steam- 
boilers preparatory to raising steam; this duty is intrusted to ignorant 
■watchmen, who are too often the agents of disaster. Those men are in- 
structed to light the tire at a certain hour, and generally comply with 
their orders, without exercising the least judgment on the subject; they 
rarely try the gauges, to see that there is "water in the boiler, before ful- 
filling their duty. We can call to mind several accidents, or injuries, that 
have occurred to boilers from this very cause. The Detroit Locomotive 
Works once bad a boiler heated so hot, by the carelessness of a watchman. 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 75 

as to burn the felt lagging on the outside; and many other similar cases 
might also be cited. We liave known instances where watchmen havo 
started the fires under gangs of cylinder boilers, and raised steam in them 
to such an extent as to drive the writer out of some into the others not in 
use, or not so full, thus running :he risk of burning the boilers, and 
causing no end of delay and loss. The men in question ought not to bo 
permitted to meddle in any way "vith a steam-boiler; and no persons, 
except those who are skilled in the management of them, and who are 
conversant with the properties of steam, should, under anj- circumstances, 
be intrusted with their control. Too many lives have been lost, and too 
much propert)^ scattered to the winds, by the ignorance of those who were 
temporarily left in charge of boilers. 

New Chroyne Green. — The London Chemical Neivs gives th(> following 
receipt for manufacturing a beautrful new chrome greon-ef)lor, adapted 
for painting and to{)ical printing: Take ten ounces of boiling water, and 
dissolve in it one ounce of the bichromate of potash, and to this add six 
pints of the biphosphate of lime, and three ounces of brown sugar. When 
those substances are mixed, a disengagement of gas takes place, and the 
liquid fumes. It is allowed to stand until this action ceases; then it i,^ 
decanted, and left to stand for about ten hours, when a beautiful green- 
color is deposited. It is washed with cold water, and dried in a warm 
room. The green-color thus obtained is stated to be fixed on cloth, in 
printing, by mixing it with albumen. It may be used both as a water- 
color and as an oil-paint. 

Prevention of Decay in Timber. — The treatment of timber, to secure it 
from rapid decay, is a subject of great importance to ship-builders, rail- 
way engineers, bridge-builders, and all others who are interested in the 
preservation of wooden structures intended to be exposed to the winds, 
the waters, and the weather. Iron is, undoubtedly, taking the place of 
timber, with advantage, for many purposes; but the latter material is so 
convenient, and so capable of being shaped and combined in suitable 
forms, that it will always be used to a great extent. One of its chief 
defects is its liability to rapid decay, depending upon its condition, and 
the circumstances connected with its application. Every item of infor- 
mation, therefore, which will tend to promote its durabOity is of great 
value. 

The sap of timber is composed of nitrogenous elements, which are called 
unstable^ because, under certain circumstances, they are so liable to change, 
producing I'ot. When timber is treated so as to alter the nature of the 
sap, or to dry it completel}^, by what is called seasoning^ it resists decay 
more effectually than if used without being dried. Moisture and confined 
air tend to procure decay in timber; and, on the other hand, timber, ex- 
posed to a free circulation of air, and shielded from moisture, will retain 
its strength, almost unimpaired, for centuries. The oak beams, rafters, 
and other timbers of old churches and houses which were built before 
the plastering of walls was introduced, have remained sound for six and 
seven hundred years. Of course, ships can not be kept dry, but if their 
timbers are Avell seasoned before they are exposed to the elements, it has 
been found, by experience at the French naval dock-yards, that they will 
endure five times longer than timbers not thoroughly seasoned. 

It is well known that when timber is steeped for a certain period in 
water, then exposed to the air to dry, it seasons more rapidly. It has 
been customary, therefore, to immerse ship-timber in water prior to dry- 
ing it. On this head, M. Lapparent states, that the practice of those shijp- 
builders who steep their timber in sea-water is wrong, and that fresh 



T6 THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 

water is the most suitable for this purpose. For oak planking, he states, 
it should be steeped one year in river water, two years in fresh water, not 
so frequently changed; while in brackish water, continually changing, it 
requires three years' immersion. 

In drying timber to season it, exposure to the air is the most simple 
method, but this requires a very long period of time for large ship, timber. 
Another method consists in drying it in large rooms exposed to currents 
of hot air driven in by fans. By this system, the surface of the timber 
is liable to become dry, and crack before the interior is seasoned, and, for 
plankiTig, it is, therefore, objectionable. Another method has lately been 
tried near Cherbourg, France, which consists in exposing it to the smoke, 
steam, and gas of wood and coal under combustion. The small amount 
of moisture in the smoke prevents the timber from cracking, and M. Lap- 
parent looks upon this mode with favor. But his favorite method in 
treating timber, to prevent its decay, is the charring of its surface. He 
states that this plan was once tried, during the last century, in the British 
royal dock-yards ; that the frigate "Koyal William'' was built of carbon- 
ized timber, and that it was one of the most remarkable cases of durabil- 
ity on record. This system has been revived in France, with improved 
apparatus, and it is about to be extended to all the dock-yards in the 
empire. The timber to be operated upon is secured upon an adjustable 
table, and its surface is slightly charred by a flame of gas mingled with a 
jet of air. The consumption of gas is 2U0 gallons for 10 square feet of 
carbonized surface, and one man can carbonize 440 square feet in ten 
hours. Some timber is improved by giving its surface a very thin coat 
of tar before it is charred. It is stated that the whole surface of timber 
is carbonized with great uniformity by this method; and M. Lapparent 
says : " It ought to be applied to every surface in contact with, or in gen- 
eral intended to be surrounded by, moist and stagnant air." It is also 
recommended for treating the beams and joints of house-timber intended 
to be imbedded in the walls, or surrounded with plaster. By carboniza- 
tion, a practical and economical means is also otfered to railway com- 
panies of preserving, almost forever, their sleepers, particularly those of 
oak. In France, the annual cost for vine-props amounts to no less than 
$24,000,000. By charring these, this cost will be reduced two-thirds, and 
a, relative saving will also be effected in thus treating hop-poles. As the 
vine and the hop are extensively cultivated in America, this system also 
deserves the attention of our people who raise these agricultural products. 

In building ships, M. Lapparent suggests that horizontal holes should 
be bored through the ribs, at certain distances apart, and there should be 
spaces between the outer and inner planking, to permit currents of air to 
be driven between the ribs ; also that portion of the ribs should be 
smeared with a paint composed of flowers of sulphur, 200 parts; linseed 
oil, 135 parts; and manganese, 30 parts, to prevent the development of 
fungi. In conclusion, M, Lapparent says : '' I have pointed out the means 
for preventing the rapid decay of timber; they are simple, logical, eco- 
nomical, easy of adoption, and perfectly innocuous. By employing them, 
we shall save that timber for building ships, which is, in my opinion, far 
superior to iron for the same purpose." 

A correspondent of the London Builder states that the Belgian Govern- 
ment now require all the wood-sleepers used on the state railways to be 
creosoted, and the Government of Holland has adopted a similar resolu- 
tion. The creosote used is simply what is called the "dead oil" of coal 
tar. M. Crepin, a Belgian engineer, has also made a series of experiments 
■with creosoted timber, in harbors and docks; and in his report, lately pub- 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 77 

lished, he states that timber so treated was found successful in resisting 
the attacks of marine worms. Timber is used to a greater extent in Amer- 
ica than in any country of an equal population in the world. If, by any 
mode of treatment, our ship, bridge, railway, house, fence, and other tim- 
ber can be rendered twice or three times more durable, a saving to that 
extent may not only be eifected in material, but in the labor required for 
preparing and applying it. All the processes, therefore, which have been 
set forth for preventing the rapid decay of timber deserve careful and 
general attenion, because they relate to interests which affect every class 
in the community. 

Petroleum for Preserving Wood, — The oil-wells near Prome, in Burmah, 
have been in use from time immemorial. Wood, both for ship-building 
and house-building, is invariably saturated, or coated, with the products 
of those wells. The result is entire immunity from decay, and the ravages 
of the white ants that, in that country, are so generally destructive. M. 
Crepin, a Belgian Government engineer, who has tried experiments upon 
the relative advantages of creosote and sulphate of copper for the preser- 
vation of timber in marine constructions from the attacks of worms, &c., 
says that creosoting is the only process he has found to succeed for this 
purpose. He states that sulphate of copper affords no protection whatever 
against the action of salt-water and marine insects. 

Another Method. — In order to prevent wooden posts and piles from rot- 
ting while in the ground, the following receipt will be found to answer 
every purpose : Fifty parts of resin ; forty parts of finely-powdered chalk; 
about three hundred parts of fine hard sand; four parts of linseed oil; 
one pa7-t of red oxide of lead, and one part of sulphuric acid, are mixed 
together. The resin, chalk, sand, and linseed oil are heated together in 
an iron boiler; the red lead and the sulphuric acid are then added. They 
are carefully mixed, and the composition is applied while hot. If it be 
not found sufficiently fluid, it may be made thinner by adding some more 
linseed oil. This paint, when cold and dry, forms a varnish of the hard- 
ness of stone. 

Testing Gilded and Silver Articles. — The following methods are em- 
ployed in the German revenue-offices for testing the value of articles that 
are gilded or silvered, and described in the Zeitschr. Deutsch. Ingenieure : 

Testing of Gold. — The ordinary method of testing gold is founded upon, 
the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid. If a mark be made on the 
"touch-stone" with the article under examination, the gold is not dis- 
solved by this acid, whereas golden-colored alloj's of inferior value are dis- 
solved and disappear immediately. When articles are very thinly gilded, 
the detection of the gold in this manner is uncertain, in which case the 
following method may be used with advantage. This process depends 
upon the fact that an aqueous solution of chloride of copper is without 
action on gold, whereas, on golden-colored alloys, as brass, pinchbeck, &c., 
it produces a black spot. 

A little carbonate of copper is put into a test-tube, and to this is added, 
drop by drop, pure hydrochloric acid, till the blue powder has dissolved to 
a clear green fluid, occasionally warming it over a spirit-lamp. This 
concentrated solution of chloride of copper is diluted for use with from 
ten to eleven times its volume of distilled water. Before testing, the 
metallic surface must be well cleaned. This can be done effectually by 
brushing it for a minute or two with a little spirits of wine; or better, 
with absolute alcohol. 

The surface having dried, a little of the testing fluid is dropped on, and 
allowed to remain in contact for about a minute. The fluid is then re- 



78 THE house-keeper's guide. 

moved, "by mefins of a snifill pipettr-, and the surface of the metal com- 
pletely dried with bibulous paper; if no dark spot be then visible, the 
article is coated with pure gold. }f the metallic surface is but lightly 
gilded, a very slight blackening is S( metimes remarked, which may throw 
a doubt upon the result. In such a case, to make quite certain, a little 
of the surface may be scraped o'A\ and then the testing fluid again 
applied. If a dark spot is then perceived, the article may be considered 
as very thinly gilded. 

If a further and more direct proof of the presence of gold is required, 
the article to be examined, or a piece of it, may be put into a porcelain 
cup, and as much pure nitric acid poured over as will half cover it. 
The thin layer of gold covering the surface does not prevent the metal 
from being attacked b}^ the acid, and the gold becoming separated, floats 
in thin films on the top of the liquid. The green metallic solution is 
now removed, and more nitric acifl poured over the gold spangles: it 
is then somewhat warmed, and water finally added. The gold has now 
been fully tested by its insolubility in nitric acid, and it only remains 
to ascertain that it dissolves to a yellow solution in warm aqua regia. 

Thin gilding of this description is often met with in the French mock 
jewelrj^; the coating is sometimes so thin that it not only deceives the 
eye, but it is difficult to test by the ordinary methods. Instead of put- 
ting the entii-e article into the acid, and thus risking its demolition, a 
portion of the surface may be scraped oft" with a knife, and tested with 
the nitric acid. "When an article appears to be made of massive gold, 
the testing by means of the "touchstone" should be first resorted to. 

Testing of Silver. — The ordinarj' and very accurate method of testing 
of silver is founded upon the insolubility of chloride of silver in dilute 
acids and in water. This otherwise satisfactory test is, however, difficult 
to carr}' out when an article is very thinly plated with silver; but in 
all these cases a simple and very accurate test can be used, which is 
based upon the reaction of chromic acid upon metallic silver. For this 
purpose testing fluid is prepared by adding pure nitric acid to powdered 
red chromate of potash, and mixing them in such a manner that a part 
of the latter remains in suspension, the whole being kept well stirred 
during the mixing. Equal parts by weight of each may be taken. The 
nitric must be quite free from hydrochloric acid, and have the proper de- 
gree of concentration, being neither too fuming nor too dilute; it should 
have a specific gravity between 1.20 and 1.25. AVhen the mixture has 
been prepared for a few hours, and then stirred several times, the reddish- 
colored liquid is poured oft' from the residue and kept in a stoppered bottle. 
A drop of this liquid is then brought in contract with the metal to be test- 
ed, and immediately washed oft' again with water. If a visible blood-red 
spot remains, silver is present. 

This method requires only the following precautions: First, the met- 
allic surface must have been quite cleansed from grease, &c., with 
spirits of wine; secondly, water must be poured over the treated surfiice 
before judging of the color, as that of tlie testing fluid is altered by the 
metal, and the red precipitate is not distinctly visible until the colored 
liquid has been washed oft". The red spot can afterward be very easily 
removed with the finger. 

By this method the slightest trace of silver in an alloy may be ascer- 
tained. "When an article is suspected to be only thinly plated, a very mi- 
nute drop of the testing fluid should be used. With no other metal or 
alloy does this red spot, so characteristic of silver, appear. In some cases 
the testing fluid only corrodes the surface of the metal, whil« in others 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. ^9 

colored precipitates are formed, which, however, can not be confounded 
with those of silver. German-silver, broug:ht into contact with the testing 
fluid, aflbrds no red spot after being washed. The spot will, however, 
have been strongly corroded. 

Britannia metal yields a black spot; zinc is strongly corroded;, pla- 
tinum is not attacked ; lead gives a yellow pjecipitate ; tin is strongly 
afl^ected by the fluid; when the brownish-colored testing fluid is washed 
ofl", a yellow precipitate is perceived, which adheres tightly to the metal ; 
copper is strongly attacked ; a tarnished surface of this metal is bright- 
ened by the action of the acid. Bismuth yields a yellow precipitate; 
antimony does not ; by this means, therefore, these two metals, some- 
what similar in many respects, can easily be distinguished. Mercury, 
or an amalgamated surface, yields a reddish-brown precipitate, which, 
however, is entirely washed away by the water, and is not likely to be 
confounded with the silver reaction. 

Destructive effects of Iron Rust. — The last published report of the Smith- 
sonian Institution contains a translation from a German publication on the 
above subject, which affords considerable information of a useful and inter- 
esting character, some of which we shall present in a condensed form. 
It states that it has been frequently observed that, in the timber of old 
ships, the wood, in the proximity of iron-bolts, is entirely altered in its 
character. Around each bolt, for a space exceeding one inch, part of the 
wood is dissolved away, and the remainder is quite brittle, and easily 
broken. The appearance of such wood is such as if it were produced by 
driving in red-hot iron bolts. This injurious efiect of iron-rust is one of 
the principal causes of the want of durability in iron-fastened ships. Rust 
not only originates where the iron is alternately exposed to water and the 
air, but also where the iron is permanently submerged under water. It 
is generally known that rust is an oxide of iron, but as soon as it comes 
into contact with wood, it gives ofl' part of its oxygen, and becomes the 
protoxide. The latter takes up a new portion of oxygen, and transfers 
it to the wood, and, by the uninterrupted repetition of this process, a slow 
decay of the wood is effected. The protoxide of iron, in this case, plays 
a part similar to nitric oxide in the manufacture of sulphuric acid. 

In order to demonstrate the fact that oxide of iron is reduced by mere 
contact with organic substances (such as wood) not yet in a state of putre- 
faction, ]\[. Kuhlman, of Lille, has instituted different experiments, the 
results of which confirm the correctness of this assertion. "When hj'drated 
oxide of iron, for example, was mixed with cold solutions of logwood, 
cochineal, corcuma, and mahogany, they were decolorized, and the iron 
was found in a state of protoxide, the oxide having lost a portion of its 
oxygen by the action of the coloring matter. In every-day life, the de- 
structive effects of the oxide of iron have been noticed. For example, 
linen or cotton cloth, containing ink-stains, becomes tender in its texture, 
in the stained spots, after repeated washings, and the spots ultimately fall 
out, leaving holes in the fabric. "SYlien cloth that is colored with cop- 
peras, to form a black, is submitted to an alkaline ley, the protoxide of 
iron is changed into an oxide, and the cloth becomes feeble in the texture; 
and the usual saying in such cases is, "It is burnt in dyeing." Accord- 
ing to Kuhlman, the oxide of iron transfers oxygen directly to the cloth, 
producing slow combustion of the fiber. This is useful information for 
dyers, as it explains the cause of an evil connected with preparing cotton 
cloth, which has hitherto baftled much scrutiny and experiment to dis- 
cover. It is also well known to bleachers, that when pieces of cotton 
cloth become stained with iron-rust they are liable to drop out, leaving 



€0 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 



holes, as if they had been sprinkled with sulphuric acid. Every spot of 
iron-rust should, therefore, be immediately discharged, when noticed, by 
the use of dilute hydrochloric acid and warm water, or oxalic acid and 
warm water. 

In ship-building, iron nails and bolts should never bo used. In all cases, 
copper or brass-fastenings should be emplo^^ed where first cost is not an 
essential object. In cases'^where the expense will not warrant the use of 
copper-bolts, the iron-bolts should be galvanized. Kecently we havo 
noticed, with much satisfaction, the extended use of zinc-covered iron- 
bolts by our ship-builders. This is a step in the right direction ; but, so 
far as we are informed, such bolts are confined to the construction of sea- 
going vessels. All our river-boats and schooners should be fastened with 
the same kind of bolts, because they are nearly as essential for vessels 
running on fresh water as those on salt. 

To PiU a Paper ^^ Positive''' iiito a LooVmg-g-lass. — Having cut out the 
picture, take a quarter plate-glass, well cleaned, lay a sheet of tin-foil on 
two or three thicknesses of cloth or paper, and spread some quicksilver 
with a piece of cotton-wool. Next, attach the portrait with varnish to the 
glass. All being ready, lay a sheet of clean paper on the top of the quick- 
silver, and place the glass, with portrait attached, on the sheet of paper. 
Now press hard, and draw out the sheet of paper gently. The quicksilver 
will run lound the edge of the portrait, making a beautiful looking-glass, 
with a portrait in the center, giving an eflect something like a daguer- 
reotype. 

Water-glass hi Soap. — In the last number of Silliman's Journal^ Mr. 
J. M. Ordway, who has devoted much attention to the composition and 
application of alkaline silicates, states that a mild silicate (water-glass) is 
now manufactured in Bostun and New York, and has come into very 
general use among soap-makers. It is used as a substitute for resin, which 
had been largely employed in the manufacture of soap, before the block- 
ade of the Southern ports. It materially reduces the cost of soap, and 
imparts neither color nor smell to it. About sixty per cent, of the fluid 
silicate, it is stated, may be mixed with the common materials that are 
employed for making bar-soap. Mr. Ordway says : "It is certainly quite 
safe to incorporate twenty-five or thirty pounds of liquid water-glass with 
one hundred pounds of pure oleostearate of soda. The compound thus 
produced has greater detersive power than common soap." 



COUNSELORS IN PATENT CAUSES, 



Daily Personal 
Attendance in U. S. Pat- 
ent Office. 

Search in U. S. Patent 
Office as to Novelty and 
Scope of Inventions, 
$5.00. 

Questions of Infringe- 
ment Examined, $26,00 
to $300.00. 




^^^ Particular atten- 
tion given to Rejected 
and Interfering Appli- 
cations, Amendment of 
Defective Patents, Ex- 
tension of Patents to 21 
Years, and Questions of 
Infringement and Nov- 
elty. 



FARMERS' DEPARTMENT. 



To Make Cheese. — Skim-milk does not make good cheese. Take fresh 
milk, and heat it to ninety degrees before you put in the rennet. Three 
quarts of milk yield about a pound of cheese. Allow a quart of lukewarm 
water and a table-spoonful of salt to a piece of rennet about the size of 
your hand. The rennet must soak all night. 

Put the milk into a large tub, warming a part until it is of a degree of 
heat quite equal to new; if too hot, the cheese will be tough. Put in as 
much rennet as will turn it, and cover it over. Let it stand until com- 
pletely turned; then strike the curd down several times with the skim- 
ming-dish, and let it separate, still keeping it covered. There are two 
modes of breaking the curd; and there will be a difference in the taste 
of the cheese, according as either is observed; one is, to gather it with the 
hands very gently toward the side of the tub, letting the whey pass 
through the lingers till it is cleared, and lading it off as it collects; the 
other is, to get the whey from it, by breaking the curd. This last method 
deprives it of many of its oily particles, and is, therefore, less proper. 

Put the vat on a ladder over the tub, and fill it with curd by the skim- 
mer; press the curd close with your hand, and add more as it sinks; and 
it must be, finally, left two inches above the edge. Before the vat is filled, 
the cheese-cloth must be laid at the bottajpi ; and, when full, drawn smooth 
over all round. 

There are two modes of salting cheese; one, by mixing it in the curd 
while in the tub, after the whey is out ; and the other, by putting it in the vat, 
and crumbling the curd all to pieces with it, after the first squeezing with 
the hands has dried it. Put a board under and over the vat, and place 
it in the press ; in two hours turn it out, and put on a fresh cheese-cloth: 
press it again for eight or nine hours ; then salt it all over, and turn it 
again in the vat, and let it stand in the press fourteen or sixteen hours, 
observing to put the cheese last made undermost. Before putting them 
the last time into the vat, pare the edges if they do not look smooth. 

Mayiagementof Cream in Cold Weather. — For some reason not yet known, 
cream, skimmed from milk in cold weather, does not come to butter when 
churned so quickly as that from the same cow in warm weather. Perhaps 
the pelicles, which form the little sacs of butter in the cream, are thicker 
and tougher. There are two methods of obviating this trouble in a great 
degree. One is, to set the pan of milk on the stove, or in some warm 
place, as soon as strained and let it remain until quite warm — some say 
until a bubble or two rises, or until a skim of cream begins to form on 
the surface. Another mode recommended, is to add a table-spoonful of 
salt to a quart of cream ; then it is skimmed. Cream, thus prepared, will 
generally come to butter in a few minutes, when churned. It is thought 
the salt acts upon the coating of the butter globules, and makes them ten- 
der, so that they break readily when beaten by churning. 

We believe, upon good authority and practice, that the best tempera- 
ture for churning milk is about 62 degrees Fahrenheit. It should never 
much exceed, or be allowed to fall, below this. If churned at a lowor 
6 ^1 



82 THE house-keeper's guide. 

temperature, the butter will not separate freely; and if churned at a higher 
temperature, a considerable portion of the casen is always found combined 
with the butter. This gives it a lard-like appearance and taste. By the 
addition of hot or cold water, as may be required, and the use of the ther- 
mometer, to test the temperature, there is but little trouble experienced 
in churning it. 

A New Method of Making Butter. — Put your sweet milk into tin pans, 
and simmer on the stove for fifteen or twenty minutes, being careful not 
to burn the milk; then churn in the usual manner. This will produce 
butter immediately, and of a far superior quality to that made in the or- 
dinary way, and will keep sweet much longer. Besides, the milk being 
left sweet, is nearly as good for other purposes. 

Packing Butter. — After laying down the first churning, make a strong 
brine, and cover it three or four inches deep. "When you are ready to lay 
down the next one, turn ofi" the brine, pack your butter firmly, and again 
cover it with the pickle, and so on till your firkin or jar is full, when it 
is to be headed or covered up with the brine on. In this way it will keep 
sweet two years. 

Preserving Meat Under Ground. — Dig a hole in the earth, from four to 
six feet deep, and large enough for the amount of meat you have to 
cure; lay boards on the bottom, and on this pack your meat in salt — • 
the usual quantity — and then cover the hole with boards and earth, 
keeping it in this condition till the meat is sufliciently salted. By this 
mode of preserving, no person need lose a pound of meat in the warmest 
clinuitc. 

Ouri^ig Bacon without Smoke. — Kill your hogs as early as the weather 
will allow, and salt as soon as the nominal boat is gone, with plenty of 
pure salt, and from one-half to one ounce of salpeter to each 100 pounds 
of pork. As soon as the meat is salted to the taste, which generally will 
be in about five weeks, take it out, and if any of it has been covered with 
brine, let it drain a little. Then take black pepper, finely ground, and 
dust on the hocks as much as will stick; then hang up in a good, clean, 
dry, airy place. If all this is done as it should be, you will have no fur- 
ther trouble with it, for by fly-time in spring, your bacon will be so well 
cured on the outside that flies or bugs will not disturb it. 

Curing Ha^yis. — The following method of curing ham is given by K. 
M. Conklin, in the Country Oenilcman: After cutting out the hams, 
they are looped by cutting through the skin so as to hang in the smoke- 
rooms hank downward ; then take any clean cask, of proper dimensions, 
which is not necessary to be water-tight; cover the floor or bottom with 
coarse salt ; rub the hams in fine salt, especial!}' about the bony parts, and 
place them on the bottom of the cask with the rind down, covering the 
floor of the cask first; sprinkle dry fine salt evenly all over them wher- 
ever it will lie, so as to cover them perhaps half an inch ; then lay others 
on them, letting the shank dip or incline considerably, placing salt in 
all cases between them where they come in close contact with each 
other or with the sides of the cask ; small lumps of salt will be found 
very convenient for this purpose. Sprinkle fine salt over this as before 
directed, giving the thick part of the ham a good share, as the shank 
begins more and more to incline downward. Proceed in this way until 
the hams are all salted, always observing to place them skin down and 
flesh side up; and if they sometimes get standing too much on end, the 
difliculty may be obviated by using a small piece of pork as a check. Let 
them lie about five weeks, if of ordinary size ; if larger, six weeks, and 
then smoke them. 



THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 83 

I have constructed a smoke-room over my kitchen, in the garret— made 
dark — and so as to admit smoke from the chimney. Here I hang the 
hams and let in smoke until they are smoked enough, and this completes 
the entire operation ; nothing more is done — no securing against flies, for 
they never enter this dark chamber, and when we want a ham we go to 
the smoke-chamber, and take it from the hook. During a period of 
twenty-five years, I have not lost a ham ; but before adopting this mode, 
through careless smoking, injudicious salting, or from flies, I was continu- 
ally suffering disappointment with my hams. Possibly hams may have a 
better flavor by using other ingredients with salt, yet where I have had 
opportunities of tasting such cured hams, I confess my inability to detect 
their superiority. 

Sugar-cured Hams. — For one hundred pounds meat take seven pounds 
salt, five pounds sugar, two ounces saltpeter, and one half ounce saleratus, 
and dissolve in four gallons of water. Heat and skim it; then pour oa 
your meat, sufficient to cover, and let it lay eight weeks ; then take out 
and smoke, after which bag them and hang them up with the little end 
down. 

Setting Sweet Potatoe Plants. — It is better to prepare your ground im- 
mediately before the planting, as the freshly-prepared ground is much 
looser, and is, therefore, more suitable to receive the plants. Having got 
the. ground together with your plants all ready, no matter how dry the 
weather, commence about the middle of the afternoon, having tubs or 
barrels of water conveniently situated, and use about a tea-cupful of 
water to each plant. The ground being loose, the four fingers of the 
right hand are passed down about their length into the earth, and the dirt 
pulled up so as to make a hole large enough for a cup of water. With 
your left hand, carefully set your plant down as it should stand. Now 
let some person pour on the cup of water, which will cause the fibrous 
roots to swim and straighten out and stand in their natural position. Now 
quickly let the dirt in your right hand be conducted around your plant 
in as loose a manner as possible, leaving the top of the plant properly 
out of the ground. No packing is desirable in this case. By using this 
method we never have to wait for a suitable season, but get the plants 
ready as soon as possible. Thus set they commence growing right along, 
and live and do better than if planted in any other way, unless it is a 
very favorable season. Much time is saved, and we have a much larger 
and more abundant crop. If the water is slightly manured, it will still 
be better. 

To Keep Sweet Potatoes. — To keep the sweet potato for use through 
the winter requires much care. One great requisite is, to have the potatoes 
gathered before they are injured by frost or by remaining in cold soil after 
the vines are killed. Another very important item is to have them care- 
fully handled. If they are dry when brought from the field, they may be 
put up the following day; if moist, they should be allowed to di-y 24 hours 
before putting up. If muddy and wet, a longer time is needed. Throw 
out all cut and bruised ones. 

The potatoes may be placed in boxes or bins of ixr\y convenient size, 
on-ly that they must not contain potatoes more than 16 inches in depth, 
and if placed one above another must have an air space of at least two 
inches between the bottom of one and the top of another. They should 
be raised from the floor four inches, and not nearer any wall than three 
inches. Sprinkle a little sand in the bottom of the box, then fill half full 
of potatoes, then shovel in sand until the crevices are well tilled, then fill 
up with potatoes and finish with sand, having an inch of sand above the 



84 THE house-keeper's guide. 

top of the potatoes. The sand should be dry, dusty and screened if possi- 
ble, so that it will run well. The best time to secure the sand is in the 
months of August and September. Dry it on a platform of boards in the 
sun, and store it away in a dry place. It will require about one-third 
as much bulk of sand as there is of potatoes to be put up. To keep well, 
the sweet potato needs an even temperature. 

How to Stow Potatoes and Preserve them from Rot. — Dust over the floor 
of the bin with lime, and put in about six or seven inches deep of potatoes, 
and dust with lime as before. Put in six or seven inches more of pota- 
toes, and lime again ; repeating the operation till all are stowed in that 
way. One bushel of lime will do for forty bushels of potatoes, though 
more will not hurt them — the lime rather improving the flavor thaa 
otherwise. 

Another Method. — Fill a basket with potatoes and dip them into a 
kettle of boiling water, and let them remain two or three minutes. Re- 
peat the operation till you have thus cured all you want for spring use. 
The boiling water kills the germ so they will not sprout and become soft. 
Dry them before packing away. 

Cultivatitig Plants when the Dew is On. — The following interesting 
and practical information is from a correspondent of the Country Gentle- 
rnan ; 

Fifteen years ago, I noticed a plot of cabbages, the large firm heads of 
which I could not account for from anything apparent in the soil. On 
asking the owner how he made from such soil so fine and uniform a crop, 
I found his only secret was that "he hoed them while the dew was on." 
He thought that in this way he watered them, but of course the good re- 
sulted more from the ammonia than the moisture of the dew. 

I adopted the practice the following year, and with the result was so 
well satisfied, that I have since continued and recommended it to others. 
There will be a very great diflerence in the growth of two plots of cab- 
bages, treated in other respects alike, one of which shall be hoed at sun- 
rise, and the other at mid-day; the growth of the former will surprisingly 
exceed that of the hitter. 

A story in point sometime since went the rounds of the agricultural 
press of which the substance follows: A small plot of ground was divided 
equally between the hired lad of a farmer and his son, the proceeds of its 
culture to be their own. They planted it with corn, and a bet was made 
b}' them as to which should make the best crop. At harvest the son came 
out some quarts behind. He could not understand tlie reason, as he had 
hoed his twice a week until laid by, while he had not seen the hired lad 
cultivate his plot at all, and yet he had gained the wager. It turned out 
the winner's crop had been hoed quite as frequently, but before his rival 
was up in the morning. Providence, it seems, follows the hoe of the early 
riser, with a special and increased reward. 

But there are exceptions. Cultivating while the dew is on, manifestly 
benefits such gross feeders as cabbage and corn, but there are plants very 
impatient of being disturbed while wet. The common garden snap and 
running beans are examples; and if worked while wet, even with dew, 
the pores of the leaves seem to become stopped, and the whole plant is 
apt to rust and become greatly injured. Whether the lima beans and 
other legumas are as impatient of being hoed in the dew, I have not as- 
certained. Experiments should, however, be tried the coming season on 
all hoed crops. 

Planting and Cultivating Sorghum. — In the treatise on "Sorgho" of 
Isaac A. Hedges — who is said to have been the pioneer and practical 



THE HOUSE -keeper's GUIDE. 85 

experimenter with the Chinese sugar-cane in the West — he states that 
sufficient attention has not usually been given to the preparation of the 
soil and planting of the seed. The soil should be plowed very deep, 
as the roots sometimes penetrate three feet downward. A free use of 
lime and wood-ashes is advantageous to the crop. It has been recom- 
mended to plant the seed in rows running north and south, but as the 
westerly winds are most destructive in laying the standing crop, rows 
running east and west should be made, because they will stand up much 
better against such gales. The Chinese cane may be transplanted like 
cabbage plants, and early crops may be raised by starting hot-beds and 
transplanting in May or June. Or, when the seed is planted in the field, 
missing hills may be supplied with plants taken from a prepared bed. 
Every farmer who plants sorghum should pursue this method. If plant- 
ed in hills, these should be about four feet apart; if in drills, the seeds 
should be about six inches apart. Careful planting is the first important 
step to secure an early and a paying crop. 

Upon the subject of treating the seed of the imphee, Leonard Wray, 
who introduced it from South Africa, says: "I have sometimes soaked 
it for twent3'-four hours in warm water previous to planting, in order 
to expedite its germination, as seeds so treated will, in warm, moist wea- 
ther, be up in four days afterward; whereas, being planted (during 
showery weather) without this assistance, they usually take six or seven 
days for sprouting; and if dry weather sets in after planting, it will be 
ten or fourteen days before they appear above ground. The practice of 
soaking I hold to be a good one." An argument in favor of soaking 
the seed is also advanced by Mr. Hedges; he says: I would especially 
caution farmers against planting seed without first having tested its ca- 
pability of germination ; then having satisfied themselves on this point, 
let care be taken not to plant too thickly." Shallow planting is also 
recommended. In no case should the seed be set more than an inch in 
depth, and half an inch is sufficient. When set deep, the seed is liable 
to rot should rain occur immediately after planting. In all cases it 
should be planted in ridges — never in furrows, so that it may receive 
greater warmth from the sunshine, and not be so liable to be saturated 
with moisture during wet weather. About from eight to ten seeds are 
recommended for each hill. 

After the plants of the cane are up, an occasional top-dressing of 
plaster and lime is suggested by Mr. Hedges. The best crop of sorghum 
we ever examined in New York was planted on loamy soil sloping to 
the south, and the plants had received a top-dressing of manure from 
the hen-house. A prize was awarded to this crop by one of the county 
agricultural societies. The custom of hilling around the rows, as in corn 
ctalture, is advantageous; and early cultivation between the rows, to keep 
down the weeds, is positively necessary to secure a good crop. 

Cultivating Flax. — At a late meeting of the Munster (Ireland) Flax 
Improvement Society, a large cultivator of flax stated that the best seed 
to use was that of Kiga, in Kussia. Dutch seed was very good, but the 
American was very inferior, and sold ftir fifty per cent, less than Riga. 
More than one-half of the fiax grown from American seed gees into tow 
when scutched, while three-fourths of that obtained from Kiga seed was 
good long flax. 

Flax-seed for sowing should be of the previous year's growth, and it 
should be plump, heavy, glossy, of a uniform size and a clea,r brown color. 
All seeds of a light drab color should be rejected. 

Too much pains can not be taken to get seed which is fully matured 



86 THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 

and perfectly clean — free from all foul seed — both to secure a good mer- 
chantable crop, and to preserve the land on which it is sown from trouble- 
some weeds. Farmers often experience great difficulty in procuring such 
seed, as no ordinary fanning mill will remove some of the worst enemies 
of the farmer and good flax. It was this fact, more than any other, that 
led to the system of "loaning seed and contracting the crop," which has 
been so long practiced in Ohio, Indiana and elsewhere. The linseed-oil 
manufacturer who receives the crop of a large section of country is ena- 
bled to select choice lots of seed, and reserve them for sowing, and then, 
by machinery too expensive and crumbrous for ordinary use, to clean it 
so thoroughly that he can gin out each year an almost perfect article of 
sowing seed. Of the superiority of such seed over what can ordinarily 
be obtained in the market, and even in seed stores, we are convinced by 
examining a sample of that seed which E. "W. Blatehford, Esq., proprietor 
of the " Chicago Lead and Oil Works," is preparing for his customers for 
sowing in the coming spring. Of course, when a manufacturer furnishes 
such seed year after year, requiring for it the return of only an equal 
amount of merchantable quality, he can not be expected to stipulate a 
price for the balance of the crop, beyond the ordinary average, taking a 
series of years into the account; and it is upon this basis that the business 
has been conducted hitherto, and it is still continued to the acceptance of 
a majority of the farmers in the largest flax-growing districts. In this 
connection we would add that, with good seed to sow, there is nothing like 
flax as a preparatory crop for wheat. The testimony of Ohio farmers, 
where flax has been extensively grown for over a quarter of a century, 
is explicit on this point, and to this fact we would call the especial atten- 
tion of our Illinois and Wisconsin farmers, whose wheat-growing for some 
time has been so discouraging. — Chicago Tribune. 

Cultivation of Tobacco. — The following is from the California Farmer 
by a contributor who has had an experience of several years in the cul- 
tivation of tobacco: 

" In order to grow strong tobacco plants, the ground must be well pre- 
pared and worked very tine. In preparing the seed-bed I have found 
that the best way is to light a large tire on the ground; the soil is thus 
rendered loose and friable, and is easily reduced very tine. If it is not 
convenient to make a fire, mix the earth with a large dose of wood-ashes 
and small charred dust. By this means the ground becomes so loose that, 
when the plants are ready for transplanting, a good sprinkling from the 
garden-pot will make the ground so soft that each plant will bring with 
it a small ball of earth, which almost insures the plant's growing, and it 
must be borne in mind that young tobacco plants require very careful 
handling. It is better to have a large shallow basket or box to carry the 
plants in when transplanting, as by this means the plants do not lose the 
ball of earth or get bruised so much as if taken in the hand. 

"The seed-bed being made tine with the rake, take the seed and mix it 
well with ten times (by bulk) as much tine earth and ashes. This enables 
you to sow the seed so thin that in drawing the larger plants you do not 
disturb the smaller ones. 

" The ground being prepared and the seed well mixed as directed, pro- 
ceed to sow, taking care to scatter the seed as equally as possible. Do not 
rake in the seed, but give the bed a slight beating with the b-ack of the 
spade, and see that the earth does not rise with the spado. Lot the seed- 
bed be in a sheltered situation. When the plants are about the size cab- 
bage plants usually are at transplanting, operations may commence, mak- 
ing choice of a cloudy or even a rainy day for the business. The ground 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 87 

for the crop must be well worked and well manured with decayed ma- 
nure; and it is better to have two shingles or other pieces of timber about 
six feet high, to stick on end in the ground, meeting over the plant so as 
to protect it from being scorched with the noon-day sun or nipped with 
the morning frost. A light, sandy soil suits the tobacco well, if well 
worked and manured. In another communication, I will explain the 
summer culture and gathering." 

An old tobacconist of Sacramento informs the Bee that all the Califor- 
nia tobacco he has seen has been spoiled in curing. It is cured in houses 
which are so hot that the leaf is burned and destroyed. The entire sub- 
stance is taken out of it, and nothing but the coarse vegetable matter 
left, without any or scarcely any of the qualities of the plant. And this, 
he says, must ever be the result while the leaf is dried as it has been here. 
He proposes that it be dried under trees, through whose branches the sun 
does not penetrate, and through which the air can freely circulate, in order 
that the leaf may not be bleached of all its properties. 

The best qualities of tobacco are said to be cultivated on new soil, on 
the southern sides of gently sloping hills. 

Treating and Flavoring Tobacco. — Avery common opinion prevailed for 
a long period, that tobacco was a tropical plant, and could not bo culti- 
vated in latitudes of moderate temperature. It is a fact, however, that 
it will grow, and may be cultivated, not only in all latitudes where corn 
or maize comes to maturity, but in regions much further north. Large 
crops of tobacco are now raised in the valley of the Connecticut, and the 
leaf of the plant is smooth, and held to be well suited for the wrappers 
of cigars. It is also cultivated in some portions of Albany and Ontario 
counties in New York, thus proving that the plant may thrive in our most 
Northern States. And not only may it be cultivated in such latitudes, 
but it is well known that, soon after it was introduced from America into 
England, it was cultivated, for a period, with success in several sections 
of that country, and also in Ireland. In 1570, it was grown in Yorkshire, 
to a considerable extent; but its cultivation was prohibited by an act of 
government, for the purpose of deriving a large revenue from that which 
was imported. Tiiis occurred during the period of the Commonwealth, 
in 1652 ; and since then, not a leaf of tobacco, except as a curiosity, has 
been grown in England. 

We have been told by those who are esteemed connoisseurs of tobacco, 
that, although this plant grows luxuriantly, when properly treated, in the 
Northern States, still it is not equal to the qualities which are cultivated 
in warmer latitudes. This is, perhaps, owing to the mode by which it is 
treated, after it has matured. In Virginia, the sun-dried tobacco is held 
to be the best for chewing, but most of it is finally cured by artificial heat. 
Tobacco, in leaf, is very sensitive to moisture in the atmosphere, because 
it contains so much potash, common salt, and lime. An analysis of this 
plant gave — potash, 8.7 percent.; soda. 1.2; lime, 32.2; common salt, 3.8; 
magnesia, 2.8. In Kichmond, which has been the head-quarters of the 
tobacco business, there are ver}'' extensive manufactories, where the leaf 
is cured, and afterward made into plugs for chewing. Great care and 
attention are necessary to the proper curing of it ; and if the weather 
is moist during the operation it is very liable to mildew. In clear, dry 
weather, it is spread on the tops of sheds, and hung in every situation 
where it can be exposed to the dry air. The sky is watched with anxiety 
during such exposure, so that it may not receive a drop of rain. Very 
frequently it receives its final drying in warm apartments, and in many 
cases these are heated with open fires, dry corn cobs being about the best 



88 THE house-keeper's guide. 

fuel that can be used. Pine and some other woods impart their resinous 
taste to the tobacco, if the smoke is permitted to permeate through the 
leaves. 

After tobacco is perfectly cured, it is prepared for pressing. It is now 
a common practice to flavor it with some mixture of a sweet and aro- 
matic character, A common preparation is that of the tonqua bean, which 
lias a pleasant odor. Vanilla is also used, and diflerent manufacturers 
have their special mixtures. The leaves are spread out and slightly 
sprinkled with the aromatic liquid until a sufficient quantity of the moist- 
ure is absorbed, to render them pliable. They are then rolled into cylin- 
drical packages, and these are squeezed into flat plugs in powerful presses. 
A number of such plugs are subsequently placed together, and subjected 
to a second pressing operation, by which the plugs are converted into 
blocks, and thus titled for transport and market. It was formerly the 
custom to place the pressed tobacco in a room called the sweat-house, 
where it remained for a considerable period exposed to a warm atmo- 
sphere. This treatment made the tobacco sweat; globules of juice ap- 
peared upon its surface, and dropped on the floor, and its taste was much 
improved thereby. 

It is also common with some tobacco manufacturers to sweeten the 
dark and rank qualities for chewing, by dipping the leaves in bunches 
into sugar sirup, before pressing them. We have only referred to the 
treatment of chewing tobacco, the superior qualities being used for this 
purpose. The terms " honey-dew," "sweet leaf," &c,, applied to diflerent 
lots of tobacco, are of the "bunkum" order. 

Melon-ground. — Look well to the linings of beds, and keep up a good 
heat; as they advance, keep the vines, both of melons and cucumbers, 
evenly trained over the surface. Add fresh mold, gradually, as required; 
remember that melons like a firm (we might almost say a hard) bed to 
grow in ; therefore, the soil in which they grow should be quite firm. 
Take care, in planting out or earthening-up, not to cover the plants deeply 
at the collar, or bury the seed-leaves. 

Maxims on Onion Cidture. — Moisture at the base of the bulb for any 
length of time is most injurious to the onion ; on the other hand, a dry 
heat at the surface is very beneficial, as it is the sun heat alone which ren- 
ders the Spanish onions so superior to the English in flavor and beauty of 
the bulbs. The hotter the season or the climate, the sweeter is the flavor 
of onions ; and the colder the season or the climate, the more pungent. 

The hoe should never be used among onions. It does mischief; and 
if an onion is once loosened in the soil, it never makes much growth after- 
ward. So, too, the bulbs should never be earthed up; they should stand 
wholly above ground, and have good depth of soil to root in. 

To S2)rout Onions. — Pour hot water on your seed, and let it remain two 
or three seconds, and they will immediately sprout, and come up much 
earlier. 

Packing Fruits for Long Distances. — A correspondent of the Cottage 
trarrfew describes the following method for packing fresh fruits of various 
kinds. This system he has practiced with success for twenty years, and 
he has sent from distances varying from fifty to five hundred miles : 

Take a box, soft paper and sweet bran, A box is chosen in size ac- 
cording to the quantity to be sent. A la} er of bran is put on the bottom, 
then each bunch of grapes is held by the hand over a sheet of the paper; 
the four corners of the paper are brought up to the stalk and nicely se- 
cured; then laid on its side in the box, and so on until the first layer is 
finished. Then fill the whole over with bran, and give the box a gentle 



THE house-keeper's guide. 89 

shake as vou proceed. Begin the second layer as the first, and so on un- 
til the box is completed. "Thus, with neat hands the hloom is preserved, 
and may he sent to any distance; hut with clumsy hands, quite the con- 
trary, and often an entire failure, as the putting and taking out of the 
box^are the most important points to be observed. I have invariably 
packed sixty to eighty bunches of grapes, and fifty or sixty dozens of 
peaches or apricots in one box, and received letters from persons, who 
said they had arrived as safe as if they had been taken from the trees 
that morning. . . . 

Saved his Stroivberries.—An exchange mentions an ingenious method 
bv which a gentleman saved his strav, berries from the daily attacks of 
ail army of robins. He killed a worthless cat, skinned and stuffed her, 
and having fitted in glaring glass eyes, he mounted her in the center of a 
strawberry patch. Although the robins continued to congregate upon 
the fence and trees near by, and scolded incessantly, none of them ven- 
tured upon the patch again. Perhaps the same scare robin would save 
the cherries. It is worth a trial, particularly where cats abound as they 
do in some premises at night. 

Wash'mg Sheep.— Eds. Frairie Farmer : Most of the wool-growers whom 
I visited in Vermont are decidedly opposed to washing sheep. They 
think it often injures them, in which opinion I concur. "When we see 
animals take the care sheep do to walk round or jump over the water, and 
struggle to get out when taken into it as sheep will, I think common 
senseteaches it is not good for them. I am confirmed in this opinion, from 
the fact that in this climate we have sudden changes of weather, and such 
changes often occur when we wash sheep, rendering it cold and uncom- 
fortable for them. Before they are dry, they often take cold and some- 
times die in consequence I think. 

Another reason for not washing is we can shear earlier, and m cool 
weather the wool grows faster and protects the skin, and we get a beUer 
clip than when shearing is delayed for warm weather before washing. 
Often when sheep are shorn late in the season, the sun is so hot their skin 
is burnt, and sometimes blisters, and in consequence the wool grows very 
little for weeks. It may not be injurious as practiced by some in the cen- 
tral part of the State, viz.: make a dam on the little streams where the 
water becomes warm in the sun previous to washing. Still I think wash- 
ino- sheep a dirty job we might dispense with, and it would be better for 
alf concerned, as the manufacturer has the wool to cleanse in any case. 
If all would shear without washing, our wool would, I think, find a mar- 
ket, and be bought on its merits as it should be, without any particular 
rule of deduction.— E. E. Gokham. 

Tanning Skins iviih the Wool or B air on. — First wash the skin in strong 
soap-suds, to remove the grease and dirt from the wool, then rinsein 
clean cold water. The skin should now be tacked upon a board (with 
the flesh side out) and stretched, its edges trimmed, and the whole fleshy 
part scraped oft' with a blunt knife. It is now rubbed over hard with as 
much chalk as it will absorb, or until the chalk falls down in powder. 
Now take the skin down, fill it with finely-ground alum, wrap it closely 
together, and keep it in a dry place for two or three days; at the end 
of that time, unfold it, shake out the alum, and it will be ready for use, 
after being again stretched and di-ied in the air. This method is fur 
white sheep-skins for door-mats. Another mode of treating them con- 
sists in applying a strong solution of alum, moderately warm, with a 
sponge, to the flesh side of the skin, when it is stretched, then allowing 
it to dry, before the clmlk is rubbed in. It must always l>e dried in the 



^0 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 

open air, or it will turn very harJ. Another mode of tanning skins 
with the hair on, after they 'are stretched on the frame and scraped, is 
to apply a warm decoction of sumac, prepared hy boiling one pound of 
sumac in a gallon of water for about five minutes. The sumac liquor 
is applied with a sponge to the whole fleshy surface, then the skin is 
dried in the open air. Three applications of the sumac are given, and 
when the skin is dried it is laid upon a smooth hoard or table, and rub- 
bed down with pumice stone. Both alum and sumac combine with the 
gelatine of the skin, and form leather. 

Plant Strav)bcrries. — As it is doubtful whether 1865 will bring n full 
supply of fruit, it is recommended to plant the small fruits freely, espe- 
cially the strawberrj^, that never fail?. The spring is the best time to 
plant this luxurious and healthful fruit; and March'is the month. Soon 
as the ground can be put in good order, plant Wilson's Albany Seedling 
or Large Early Scarlet, in rows four feet apart and two feet in the 7*ow. 
The summer cultivation can be chiefly performed with the cultivator, pro- 
vided the weeds are not allowed to get the start of you. It is but a slight 
job to dress out a considerable patch; and if frequently done, but little 
work with the hoe will be necessary. As to keeping them in hills or let- 
ting them run at their pleasure, do as you please; though in September 
or October the growing plants should be cut loose from the parent plant 
of the "Wilson's Seedling, or it may be exhausted and die. But if you 
desire only a small garden patch, you had better plant two feet apart each 
way, and let but few young plants grow, and such onh^ as are set the 
greatest distance from the hill. By this method, of course, hand culture 
must be relied upon. If your daughters should attend to this as well as 
other garden work, they will not be injured by the exercise. Let the girls 
stir themselves out-doors, moderately, but regularly every day. Many 
daughters of the country are becoming namby-pamby, like some of the 
town — an evil that should be corrected by all parents who understand 
the relations of out-door air and exercise to health. Those who have but 
a limited tract of land, will do well to raise from one to ten acres of 
strawberries, according as the market is more or less accessible. All farm- 
ers should have a family patch, as the cost is little, and the luxury very 
great. We recommend Wilson's variety, because it has been tested, and 
is a large bearer, as well as a good berry. The Large Earl}^ Scarlet is a 
sweeter berry, the vine a vigorous grower, and can be allowed to run at 
random. It is preferable as a berry for home use. If you have old patch- 
es, thin them out thoroughly, and if grassy, turn them under and plant 
a new patch. If the old patch is not too thick, the only labor required 
in the spring is to spade under all the grass that may have made a start, 
and the plants also in places where they are crowded. To get good 
sized berries, the plants must have room. Plants set in March will pro- 
<luce nothing worth while; better pinch off the fruit stems as they ap- 
pear, and let the plant have all the growth of the first season. The 
writer of this has grown strawberries fijr market several seasons. 

Cuti'wg Timber. — The following information about cutting timber has 
been forwarded to us from a correspondent, who states he found it among 
the manuscripts of a deceased friend. It appears to be practical, and 
deserving of general attention : Tradition says that the " old" of the moon 
in February is the best time to cut timber; but from more than twenty 
years of observation and actual experience, I am fully convinced that it 
is about the worst time to cut most, if not all kinds of hard wood, timber. 
Birch, :\?h. and mo?t or all kinds of hard wood, will, invariably, povjcler- 
]iOi<f^ if rwi any time ir. the fall, after the tree is frozen, or before it is* 



THE HOUaE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 91 

thoroughly leaved out in the spriiu- of the year. But if cut after the sap 
in the tree is used up in the growth of the tree, until freezing weather 
again comes, it will in no instance p -oduce the powder-post worm. "When 
the tree is frozen and cut in this condition, the worm first commences its 
ravages on the inside film of the bark, and then penetrates the wood until 
it destroys the sap part thereof. X have found the months of August, 
September, and October to be the three best in the year to cut hard-wood 
timber. If cut in these months, the timber is harder, more elastic, and 
durable than if cut in winter months. I have, by weighing timber, found 
that of equal quality got out for jo ners' tools, is much heavier when cut 
and got out in the above-named n onths, than in the winter and spring 
months, and it is not so liable to cn-ck. You may cut a tree in September, 
and another in the "old" of the moon in February following, and let theni 
remain, and in one year from the citting of the first tree you will find it 
Bound and unhurt; while the one h.st cut is scarcely fit for firewood, from 
decay. This I know by experien 'e. I know of several buildings, tho 
frames of which were cut in the "old" of the moon in February, princi- 
pally of beach timber, now literall 7 eaten up by the powder-post worm; 
while other timber, cut before the frost came, remains perfectly sound, 
without the least mark of a worm. Chestnut timber for building will last 
longest, provided the bark be taken off. Hemlock and pine ought to be 
cut before being hard frozen, although they do not powder-post; yet if 
they are cut in the middle of winter, or in the spring of the year, and 
the bark is not taken off, the grub N'ill immediately commence its ravages 
between the bark and the wood. I have walnut timber on hand which 
has been cut from one to ten years, with the bark on, which was designed 
for ax-helves and ox-bows, and not a worm is to be found therein; it was 
cut between the first of August an(. the first of November. I have other 
pieces of the same timber cut in tne winter months, not two years old, 
and they are entirely destroyed, being full of powder-post and grub worms. 
"VVithin the last ten or twelve yean, 1 have stated the result of my obser- 
vation on, and experience of, cutting timber in difierent seasons of the 
year, to many of my neighbors and others; and all who have made tho 
trial are satisfied that the above .■rtatement is correct. Others, more in- 
credulous, follow traditions. It is a fact which is beyond contradiction, 
that when there is the least sap in Umber, it is the most durable and solid, 
and will, when seasoned, be the heaviest. And I am fully persuaded that 
nine cords of wood cut in those moaths above named, will go furtiier than 
ten cut in the winter months. It v. ill burn clearer, the coals will be more 
solid, and they Avill retain their heat double the length of time. "Who 
does not know that v/ood cut in tho winter, and suftered to remain in the 
log, or exposed to the weather, is of but little value? especially beach, 
birch, maple, &c. ; being so far dec: yed, it rather molders away than burns, 
making no coals, and giving little h^-at. Hoop-poles ought to be cut before 
frost comes, and they will last tbi-ee times as long as when cut in the 
winter, and will remain free from worms. The late Mr. Leonard Ken- 
nedy, of Hartford, Conn., stated to me some twelve years since, that he 
had lost more or less walnut timber yearly, which he was in the habit of 
purchasing for screws, printing-presses, vices, &c., by its powder-posting, 
although he had been particular tc have it cut, as far as possible, in the 
" old" of the moon in February; f.nd he inquired of me if I could inform 
him how to prevent it. I told him to order his timber cut in August and 
September, instead of February. He afterward told me that the advic« 
was of much value to him, as he had lost none since, if cut in those 
months ; and he thought the screws were better. Many others might be 



92 THE house-keeper's guide. 

named who have followed the same advice, and none have failed of suc- 
cess. Most, if not all, persons are more or less interested in the above, 
cither in building-timber or mechanical business ; and, on u fair trial, they 
will lincl they have not been deceived by me. 

Maple Sugcn'. — A correspondent of the Couniry Gentleman thus describes 
his method of making maple sugar: The sap, when gathered, should be boil- 
ed as rapidly as possible; for sometimes a very short time standing will in- 
jure the quality of the sugar, especially if the weather is warm. For the 
purpose of making a nice article, and for boiling fast, you should sirup 
down once a day, at least. The sirup should be boiled down so that it will 
drop from the edge of the dipper in broad drops, like honey; then it is 
ready to dip out and strain, through a wooden strainer, into a clean bar- 
rel kept on hand for the purpose. It should then be allowed to stand eight 
or ten hours, to settle. For sugaring-oif, I use an iron kettle of about 14 
gallons ; till it about two-thirds full ; slir into it two eggs, well beaten; put 
il over the tire, and when it comes to the boiling point, the scum will rise, 
which should bo carefully removed; then dip out until you can't boil it 
over; and as soon as it gets like soft wax return what you dipped out, in 
suudl quantities, until all is returned. Keep a good fire from the start; 
you can't boil too fast. There is no danger of burning until the water is 
all gone, then you should take it from the tire. To try it, drop it into 
water, and it it will snap like rosin, it is done. 

The Potato Rot. — Thomas Carpenter, of Buttle Creek, Mich., communi- 
cates the following as his mode of fighting ofl" the potato rot: Now 1 will 
tell you how I manage, premising that I never yet had potatoes rot in the 
gi'ound, and that 1 am (.)3 years old. 1 plant my potatoes in the latter 
part of April, or fore-part of May, and in the old of the moon. When 
they get up six inches high, I plaster and dress them out nicely. Now 
for the secret. When the sets show for blossoming, then is the time to 
take two parts plaster, and one part tine salt; mix well together, and put 
one large spoonful of this compound on each hill; drop it as nearly in 
the center of the hill as possible. Just as soon as the potatoes are ripe, 
take them out of the ground; have them perfectly dry when put in the 
cellar, and keep them in a dry, cool place. iSome farmers let their pota- 
toes remain in the ground, soaking through all the cold fall rains until 
the snow tiies. The potatoes become diseased in this way more and more 
every year ; hence the potato rot. W ith such management they should 
rot. " 

About Roses. — A correspondent of the CuUiirist writes to that journal 
concerning the care and treatment of roses. As the season of this beauti- 
ful nyinpii of Flora is rapidly approaching, our readers will doubtless 
tind much advantage from perusing this letter, which we here append: 
Everybody loves the rose, and almost every one desires to possess infor- 
mation that will tend to give the greatest possible eflect to this pet of the 
garden and conservatory. It is not as well known, perhaps, as it might 
be, that to have roses in full perfection of size and color, proper planting 
and exposure are absolutely essential. The rose requires abundance of 
air and light, and, to look their very best, 1 think that judicious grouping 
is indispensable. I know no way of accomplishing this more eti'ectually 
than by pyramidal grouping — that is, forming a rose pyramid, rising, 
gradually, in highth, froa. the minutest dwarf at the base, to the tallest 
standard at the apex. As the varieties are almost endless, it would be 
impossible to enumerate them. Almost every tiorist's catalogue will sup- 
ply the list, and the taste of the operator direct the arrangement. A 
proper discrimination should, of course, be manifested in regard to the 



THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 93 

time and continuance of blooming, so as to secure the finest possible 
eifect. I once read of a very simple method of impartin<r a stronger 
and more agreeable odor to the rose. It is done b}^ planting one or 
two large onions close to the root. It is said that water distilled from 
roses grown, under such circumstances, is decidedly superior to that 
prepaT-ed from ordinary rose-leaves. It is a French idea, and, as it will 
cost little to try it, perhaps some persons may feel disposed to experiment 
on it. 

Charcoal for Turkeys. — A correspondent of the Gennaniorim {Pa.) 
Telegraph states that he has made successful experiments in feeding tur- 
keys with charcoal. He took eight of these fowls, and put four in each 
of two separate pens, and fed them alike with meal, boiled potatoes and 
oats, with the exception that one set had a pint of pulverized charcoal 
daily, while the others had none. They were killed on the same day, 
when it was found that those which received the charcoal averaged each 
one and a half pounds more than the others, and their flesh was more 
tender and pleasant. 

Feeding Oats to Horses. — A correspondent of the Rural Register gives 
his experience as follows, on feeding horses. He says : 

The same quantity of oats given to a horse produces different effects 
according to the time they are administered. There is, decidedly, a great 
advantage in giving horses water before corn, and an injury in giving 
water after corn. There is a bad habit prevalent, namely, that of giving 
corn and hay on their return to the stable after hard work. Being very 
hungry, the}^ devour it eagerlj' and do not masticate; the consequence is, 
it is not so well digested. When a horse returns from work perspiring 
and out of breath, he should be allowed to rest for a time, then give a 
little hay, a half an hour afterward water, then oats. By this plan, water 
may be given without risk of cold. This correspondent states that he has 
made many experiments with his own horses, and the foregoing are con- 
clusions based on his experience. 

Blanketing Horses. — Most persons who have the care of horses in win- 
ter, make a serious mistake in tlirowing a blanket on the animal as soon 
as he is stopped after becoming heated by hard labor or long traveling. 
The vapor that steams up from the hot sides of the horse condenses and 
wets the blanket, and as he continues to cool, the cold and wet covering 
chills, instead of warming hira. The better plan is to allow the horse to 
stand uncovered until cooled down to about the ordinary temperature, 
which, of course, will depend on and must be regulated by circumstances, 
and then throw on a dry blanket. 

Let Animals have Daily Exercise. — Horses require daily exercise in the 
open air, and can no more be expected to exist without it than their 
owners. Exercise is an essential feature in stable maiiageraent, and, like 
well-opportuned food, tends alike to preserve the health of horses, Daily 
exercise is necessary for all horses unless they are sick; it assists and pro- 
motes a free circulation of the blood, determines morbific matter to the 
surface, developes the muscular stricture, creates an appetite, improves 
the wind, and finally invigorates the whole system. We can not expect 
much of a horse that has not been habituated to suflScient daily exercise; 
while such as have been daily exercised and -well managed, are capable, 
not only of great exertion and fatigue, but are ready and willing to do 
our bidding at any season. When an animal is overworked, it renders 
the system very susceptible to whatever morbid influences may be present, 
and imparts to the disease they may labor under, an unusual degree of 
severity. The exhaustion produced by want of rest is equally dangerous; 



94 THE HOUSE-KEEPER'y aUiUE. 

such horses are always among the lirst victims of diseases, and when at- 
tacked their treatment is embarassing and ^nsatisfacto^3^ 

Salt for Animals. — Animals that are permitted to roam in the salt 
marshes are generally the most healthy, as they consume a large amount 
of saline material. The antiseptic property of salt is too well known 
and appreciated by most husbandmen, and the farmer might as well 
think of entirely dispensing with food as to fail in seasoning food with 
salt. No animal can long exist without salt; in the stomach it operates 
favorably, and has a healthy action on the liver. It also prevents the 
food from running into fermentation, and is death on intestinal parasites. 

CldoTide of Lhne as an Insecticide. — In scattering chloride of lime on a 
plank in a stable, all kinds of flies, but more especially biting flies, were 
quickly got rid of. Sprinkling beds of vegetables with even a weak solu- 
tion of this salt, efiectually preserves them from caterpillars, butterflies, 
mordella, slugs, &c. It has the same eff'ect when sprinkled on the foliage 
of fruit-trees. A paste of one part of powdered chloride of lime, and one- 
half part of some fatty matter, placed in a narrow band round the trunk 
of the tree, prevents insects from creeping up it. It has ever been 
noticed that rats and mice quit places in which a certain quantity of 
chloride of lime has been spread. This salt, dried and finely powdered, 
can, no doubt, be employed for the same purposes as flour of sulphur, and 
be spread by the same means. 

To Preve7it Fence-posts from Decaying. — Char about two feet of the ends 
which you put in the ground, by burning them, and they will last ten 
times as long. 

Hot-Houses. — Use blue glass for hot-houses, and your seeds will germi- 
nate much sooner, and plants will thrive much better. 

To Protect Anbnalsfrom Files and Insects. — Walnut leaves, four ounces ; 
lobelia leaves, four ounces; boiling water, one gallon. Let the mixture stand 
imtil it cools; then press the fluid through a cotton cloth, and add four 
ounces of the tincture of aloes. Apply a small quantity of this compound, 
daily, to the surface of the body, by means of u sponge, and the flies will 
not trouble them. 

To Make Hens Lay in Winter. — Raise a sufficient quantity of sunflowers 
for the hens to feed upon the seeds all the winter, and you will have 
plenty of eggs. The best way to raise them is to plant with potatoes ; 
then 3'ou can also plant butter or lima-beans, which will run up the stalks, 
and save the expense of polling. The sunflowers will shade the potatoes, 
and make them grow better and be much sweeter, so that three crops can 
be raised oft' one piece of ground. Cut your sunflowers up, when ripe, at 
the bottom of the stalk, and set them up on the ends, with their heads 
close together near your fowl-yard, where the hens can run under between 
the stalks, and pick up the seeds as they fall down. 



CONTENTS, 



PAOR. 

3 to 6 — Soap and Washing Kcceipts. 

6 — Inks, Cements, and Liquid Solders. 

7 — Small Beers and other Beverages. 

8 to 11 — Domestic Wines, Cider, Cordials, &c 

12 — Liquors, Vinegar, &c. 

13 & 14 — Dyeing Receipts. 

15 — Hair Dyes and Eestoratives ; Cosmetics. 

16 — Chafed Skin ; Whitening the Skin ; Chapped Hands ; Bunions, 

Corns, Warts, and Chilblains ; To Destroy Plies ; Wash for 
Fruit-Trees, Curculio in Fruit-Trees. 

17 & 18 — Eemoving Stains, Grease spots, &c. 

19 — " Paint, Ink-stains, and Mildew ; To Keep Silk ; Wool- 

en Cloths; Foul Air in Wells; Disinfectants. 

20 — Barometer; To Harden Lard and Tallow-Candles; Fracture in 

Glass Chimneys; Preservation of the Teeth ; Yeast; Preser- 
vation of Pictures. 

21 — llancid Butter; To Preserve Milk; Brilliant Whitewash; Zinc 

Wash for Rooms ; Preserving Butter. 

22 —To Make Butter Yellow ; Water-proof Oil-Blacking; Polish for 

Old Furniture ; To Prevent Flies from Injuring Picture- 
frames, Looking-glasses, &c. ; To Clean Silver and Britannia; 
Fire-proof and- Water-proof Cloth. 

23 & 24 — To Soften Hard Water; Fleas on Dogs; To Brighten Brass; 

To Keep Metals from Rusting; To Brown Gun-Barrels; Skip- 
pers in Ham; To Prevent Frost in Gardens, &c. ; Substitute 
for Coffee; To Exterminate Rats, Roaches, &c. 
25 — To Preserve Eggs; How to Catch Fish and Wild-Fowls ; Seal- 

ing-wax for Bottles ; Substitute for a Carpet. 



CULIN^ARY DEPARTMENT. 

26 — Wheat Bread; Rye and Indian Bread; Biscuits, Rolls, &c. 

27 & 28 — Baked and Boiled Puddings. 

29 & 30 — Pudding Sauces; Pies and Pastry. 

31 to 36 — Custards, Cakes, &c. 

36 to 39 — Meats, Fish, Oysters, &c. 

39 to 45 — Preserves, Pickles, Jellies, Jams, &c. 

45 — Hints to House-keepers. 



MEDICAL DEPARTMENT. 

46 — Cough Syrup; Fever and Ague Cure; Remedy for Dyspepsia 

and Liver Complaint. 

95 



96 COXTENTS. 

PAGE. 

47 — Tonic Bitters; Alterative Sirup for Scrofula, &c.; Rheumatic 

Drops, or No. 6; Compositioa Powders; Liniment for Cuts, 
Bruises, &c. 

48 — Diarrhea Cordial and Cholera Sirup; Diphtheria. 

49 ■ — (Aire for Hydrophobia; Important Medical Discovery. 

50 — Cure for Small-pox; To Prevent its Defacing Marks. 
50 to 52 — Rules for the Preservation of the Health. 

52 — Water-cure; Hints on Pure Air, Sunlight, &c. 

52 to 55 — Food and Drink for the Sick; AVhy Children Die; Causes of 
Dyspepsia. 

55 — Poisons and their Antidotes. 

56 to 60 — Vegetable ]\[ateria Medica, giving the Medical Properties of all 

common Herbs and Plants. 



MECHANICS' DEPARTMENT. 

61 — Painting Glass Transparencies; Varnish for Wood Patterns; 

Etching Varnish; Flexible Varnish. 

62 — Varnish for Iron AVork and Japan. 

62 & 63 — Transparent Painting on Linen ; Prints on Glass, Wood, &c. 

64 — Colors for Stamping Muslin; Collodion Formulae. 

65 — Dammara Varnish; Alloy fur Journal Boxes; Babbit Metal; 

Fine Polishing Powder; Consolidating Cast-steel. 

66 — Harmless Green-color for Confectionery; Furniture Paste ; 

Cleaning Brass, Tin-ware, &g. ; Bhack on Gun-Barrels 

67 — Aluminum Bronze; Bronzing Metals. 

68 — Dull Black on Brass; Staining Marble; Hardening Wood for 

Pulleys ; Case-hardening Iron. 

69 & 70 — Enamefing Vessels; Silvering by Tin; Welding Cast-steel; 

Gilding Steel; To Silver Brass ; Tinning Iron. 

71 — Coloring Gold; Kid and Glazed Leather; Tanning Nets, Sails, 

and Cordage. 

72 — Preserving Wood; Cement for Steam-Boilers ; Marine Glue; 

Cement for Leather Belts ; Cement for Petroleum Stills. 

73 — Attaching Ornaments to Wood; Rubber Cement; Blacking for 

Harness, Leather, &c. ; Cement for Brick Walls ; To Gild 
Iron and Steel with Gold; To Silver Iron and other Metals; 
To Stain Wood various Colors. 

74 — Staining Wood; Solders; Starting Fires under Boilers. 

75 & 76 — New Chrome Green ; Preventive of Decay in Timber. 
77 & 78 — Testing Gilded Articles; Gold and Silver. 

79 & 80— Destructive Eifects of Iron Rust ; To Put a Paper "Positive" 
into a Looking-glass ; Water-glass in Soap. 



FARMERS' DEPxiRTMENT. 

81 to 94— Containing many Valuable Hints upon nearly all matters per- 
taining to Husbandry, the Management of Stock, &c. 




PEOM THE PEESS, PHYSICIANS, AND DEUGGISTS. 

" The House-Keeper's Guide and Everybody's Hand-Book. — This is 
the title of a valuable little book bow being published at our office, by 
Messrs. Smith & Swinney, of this city. It comprises a large colleetioxi 
(over five hundred) of new and valuable recipes, besides a large amodnt 
of other useful information, which the authors have been at great labor 
gnd expense in collecting and arranging for publication. Being practical 
chemists, they have added several recipes for the manufacture of articles 
of their own invention, which, in the aggregate, are worth ten times the 
price of the book. No family should be without a copy, as the information 
which it contains might be the means of saving many dollars every year 
to its possessor." — Cincinnati National Union. 

" We have examined the House-Keeper's Guide and Everybody's Hand- 
book, and can safely say that it is all that its authors claim. "We believe 
that it contains more valuable information, and a larger number of prac- 
tical recipes of real utility, than any similar work extant. We are ac- 
quainted with some of the articles manufactured by the authors, for which 
recipes are herein given, and know that any one of them is worth the price 
of the book ; besides, it is indorsed by a reliable medical authority and two 
of our principal drug firms in this city." — Cincinnati Daili/ Gazette. 

"It is neatly printed, well recommended, and is undoubtedly a good 
thing." — Christian Advocate. 

"It is just what its name purports, the House-Keeper's Guide and 
Hand-Book for Everybody." — Commercial. 

From Prof. A. Curtis, A.M., M. D., Professor of the Cincinnati Literary 
and Scientific Institute, and Professor of the Theory and Practice of Medi- 
cine and Surgery. 

" Although I have not examined the book sufficiently to decide upon the 
merits of all the recipes, I have made myself acquainted with enough to 
satisfy me that it is worth many times the price demanded for it. The 
vegetable Materia Medica, giving the medicinal properties of the most 
common herbs and plants, will be found of great value; while the remarks 
on the preservation of health and the hygienic treatment of the sick, are 
alone worth many times the price of the book, and I would that they were 
treasured and heeded by every family in the land. 

"A. Curtis, M. D." 

" Having examined the book, I can indorse the above. 

"II. H. IIiLi., M. D,, Druggist, 
"Corner Fifth and Race Streets, Cincinnati, Ohio." 
"Having thoroughly examined the House-Keeper's Guide and Every- 
body's Hand-Book, we do hereby certify that the recipes are genuine, and 
of great practical utility to all house-keepers. A single one out of many 
would frequently save its price, and we think that no one will ever repent 
of having invested a dollar for so much valuable information as it con- 
tains. Shueseer Sc Chapman, Druggists. 

" Corner of Vine and Sixth Streets, Cincinnati, Ohio." 



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